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Hatchbacks Mazda3 Mazda 3 Tire & Wheel Questions
269 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 11:26 AM
You are in the Mazda3 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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| Just released, this Ultra High Performance Tire is designed for high grip in wet and dry plus decent mileage. The UTOG rating is 340 AA so it is softer and higher performing than the G009 but better wearing than the RE050. Plus you get Bridgestone's latest technology and tread pattern. Looks like a great tire to me. | |
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Replying to: pthirth (May 22, 2008 6:13 pm) The rear wheels have a negative camber that can cause the inside edges of the tires to wear excessively. The problem could also be exaserbated if you routinely carry a lot of extra weight in the rear seat and trunk because the wheels tilt progressively inward as the rear suspension compresses. When tires wear in this manner, they may begin to cup (develop flat spots) on the inside portion resulting in that thrum-thrum sound you mentioned. Rotating the unevenly worn rear tires to the front, unfortunately, increases the noise level inside and if you rotate them at the dealer recommended intervals, it makes it more difficult to tell if the wear problem is on the front, rear, or both. Before replacing my short-lived OEM tires I had the dealer check the alignment and was informed that the rear camber was not adjustable, only toe in, and it was normal for the tires to wear unevenly on this car and blah blah blah just live with it. I've searched through various discussions here and elsewhere but have been unable find any solution. Mostly just confirmation of what the dealer told me. The only suggestion I could make at this time is to make sure that your alignment is adjusted to spec and be religious about checking your tire pressure. The 12000 mile tire warranty does seem a bit pathetic, even for soft compound performance rated tire. But it's probably a non-issue unless you can show the uneven wear is being caused by defective tires rather than the car. Good luck.
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Are you talking about the economy car, a Mazda 3 sedan? Or does "M3" mean M3 as in BMW? If you're talking about the Mazda, just get a good set of tires, make sure it is set to factory specs for alignment. It will be fine.
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Replying to: indydriver (Jun 13, 2008 4:30 pm) Agreed. On most of the other boards the econobox Mazda 3 is called "MZ3", and the hot hatch Mazdaspeed3 is known as the "MS3". There is only ONE M3, and it isn't built by Mazda. As for tires, the OEM Bridgestone 050As on my MS3 are still wearing evenly at 18,300 miles. Well, three of them are anyway; the LR tire was taken out by a nail in the inner sidewall. I'm spending a few days at Putnam Park in a few weeks so I'll report back on how well they do after several hours of hot laps...
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Replying to: roadburner (Jun 15, 2008 5:11 pm)
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Replying to: tom1sharon2 (Jun 11, 2008 1:33 pm) Then after buying a new set of Michelin tires I go to a different Mazda dealer to have the alignment checked. All of a sudden the alignment is way off. So they did the alignment and now 25K into the Michelins I am seeing the same issues again. I stopped by the tire dealer where I purchased the Michelin tires for their opinion. Basically knowing I have the tires rotated regularly (by them) they thought this to be some sort of alignment issue. In the their words, "the tires are setting on the surface evenly". So I contacted the service manager at the original Mazda dealership and explain my problem. He seems eager to help and makes an appointment to look at the car. Yepper, same old BS again plus this time he added that the tires I have on the car are too big and have a very aggressive tread pattern which causes excessive wear. Funny that the tires are the exact same size as the OEM tires and the tread pattern is just the Michelin rain tread pattern. So then I called a person who used to be a service writer at a Mazda dealership for his opinion. He tells me the Mazda3 is notorious for tire wear and rear brakes. Known problem! He told me to call the service manager at the dealership to discuss. That was a mistake as well since I heard the same spin on the tire wear situation but in a more civil manner than that from the service manager at the original dealership where I bought the car. Funny how well trained the service people are at these Mazda dealerships to lie though their teeth to cover up a known problem and just pass it on the customer. How stupid, like I will buy another Mazda after this headache! |
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Replying to: indydriver (Jun 16, 2008 1:18 pm) Saturday dawned clear and warm...  Photo Courtesy of PHOTOMOTIONONLINE.COM As the ambient temperature approached 90F the limitations of the stock rubber became evident. After about 15-20 minutes of track time the tires started to go away. Tire pressures were 35/38 cold but they just tended to overheat if I started to really push. And I certainly wasn't driving that hard; I barely saw 110 on the main straight. I could have easily hit 130 had I wanted to. If I keep the sled I'll definitely need a tire trailer as well as a set of R compound rubber and track wheels. I also need to sort out the traction control and perhaps upgrade to more suitable brake pads. The stock pads worked fine but I'll want something with a bit more bite to complement the upgraded tires and the higher speeds they will allow.
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Replying to: roadburner (Jul 08, 2008 12:23 pm)
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Replying to: indydriver (Jul 08, 2008 1:18 pm) A couple of questions: first, what is the deal with getting your street ride on the track? Do they have regular open days? The events that I learned at-and now instruct at-are driving schools conducted by chapters of the BMW Car Club of America, AKA BMW CCA. As the official description says, "BMW CCA driving schools are designed to teach drivers how to safely improve their driving abilities and explore their cars’ capabilities. Students, using their own cars, get one-on-one instruction from experienced instructors. Our overriding emphasis is on safety, and safely learning how to control the car in emergency and higher performance conditions. The school is conducted on a paved, closed, and controlled course to minimize risk to persons and equipment. This is not a racing school, practice or preparation for racing, and it is not a timed, competitive event or speed contest." The schools are typically held on weekends, with Friday usually being reserved for instructors and Advanced students. I see you're wearing a helmet. Were there any other requirements? The helmet must have a Snell MA2000 or S2000 rating. Your car must also undergo a pre-event inspection as well as a trackside inspection. How about the cost?  $200-$400 for the two day event. Cost depends on the track and chapter. You also must be a BMW CCA member($40/yr). Also you state inflation pressures as "35/38", I assume meaning 35 front and 38 rear. I'm sure you know the factory recommends 2 pounds more in the front "34/32". Why the reversal? Did you do this to try to lessen understeer? Yes, you normally increase front tire pressure to reduce understeer, but I went with the recommendations of an experienced MS3 track driver and I thought his numbers were spot-on. The front tires run hotter due to all the work they have to do-transmit power, turn, and brake- so the pressures tend to even out front to rear.
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Replying to: roadburner (Jul 08, 2008 6:01 pm) |
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