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Ford Expedition Towing Questions

68 messages,  Last post on Jun 17, 2013 at 10:13 PM

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What is this discussion about? Ford Expedition, Towing, SUV

Messages Page 5 of 8

#35 of 68 Re: After market addition of heavy duty trailer tow package (536) [dakota123] by 4evergreenlawn

Sep 16, 2008 (9:49 pm)

Replying to: dakota123 (Sep 15, 2008 8:46 am)
1st I would like to thank all of you for taking the time and put this information out here for others.
 
I have had my share of experiences with ordering trucks and sale people that think they know what they are selling you. I own 7 Ford truck for my business and doing very simple add ons have become a battle of wits with the Service department.
 
With that being said.....I recently purchased a 2005 Expedition E/B 4X4, Must say I got a great deal. My intention is to trailer the boat I have not yet purchased which will weight about 5000-6000lbs.
 
From reading here I can tell you that I have the 4 plug only on the hitch. I have seen the dual 7/4 plug on other Expeditions and now realize what I was told was the TOW PACKAGE (6,000lbs) is just that and there is a HD version (8,900).
 
Without knowing which rear end I have if i DO NOT have the 3:73 rear would is still be worth doing the balance of the HD upgrade as listed here by others?
 
OR just leave things as is add a brake controller and a 7 pin plug?
 
As a side note I would never even think about towing anything close to 9000lbs with an Expedition.
 
TIA
Ron G.

#36 of 68 Re: After market addition of heavy duty trailer tow package (536) [4evergreenlawn] by dwsenko

Sep 17, 2008 (5:39 am)

Replying to: 4evergreenlawn (Sep 16, 2008 9:49 pm)
My 2 cents:
 
You will tow a boat which will weigh 5000-6000 pounds (that I assume you mean fully loaded for a total of 5000-6000 pounds with boat, trailer, motor, gas, stuff) with the base towing capabilities. If true, you are on the upper end of the capacity vs intended load.
 
>> Without knowing which rear end I have if i DO NOT have the 3:73 rear would is still be worth doing the balance of the HD upgrade as listed here by others?
 
I say yes to get the larger oil cooler and radiator to keep the engine from overheating especially depending on the terrain of your towing. Its a form of insurance and peace of mind.

#37 of 68 Re: After market addition of heavy duty trailer tow package (536) [dwsenko] by dakota123

Sep 17, 2008 (7:37 am)

Replying to: dwsenko (Sep 17, 2008 5:39 am)
I agree with the above. Add at least the oil cooler (it's a no-brainer -- it's cheap and very easy to install) and if there's the slightest doubt the radiator as well. Boats usually equal hot weather, no? At 5,000 -- 6,000 lbs, even if you do have the 3.31 gears you should be OK. It won't be a rocket, but it will pull anything you reasonably want it to.
 
While my '07 is better in some respects, the stiffer suspension of the '05 I had was a bit more secure for towing in heavy crosswinds.

#38 of 68 replacing a factory installed receiver hitch by rsr00

Sep 19, 2008 (9:35 am)

how feasible is it to replace the original receiver on my 2005 with a heavier one?
I do not intend to tow with it, but I would like to have it be able to pull a horse trailer to the vet or some such in a pinch.

#39 of 68 Re: replacing a factory installed receiver hitch [rsr00] by woodye

Sep 19, 2008 (9:45 am)

Replying to: rsr00 (Sep 19, 2008 9:35 am)
I don't know what level of receiver is on the 2005. There should be a tag on the receiver. The heavy hitch is I believe a Class IV hitch.
 
If your hitch is lighter, see if it's bolted or welded in. If bolted it would be simple to add an aftermarket Class IV.

#40 of 68 Re: After market addition of heavy duty trailer tow package (536) [4evergreenlawn] by dieselone

Sep 25, 2008 (4:02 pm)

Replying to: 4evergreenlawn (Sep 16, 2008 9:49 pm)
I would add the trans cooler and you should be fine. a 5-6,000lb boat is a lot easier to tow than a camper or enclosed trailer of the weight. You don't have near the wind resistance with a boat. Also, you rarely see electric brakes on boat trailers. I've been around boats for a while and I've yet to see an electric brake setup on a boat trailer under 7k lbs. I know they are out there, but they are rare. The vast majority are surge activated brakes and do not require a brake controller.
 
My current boat weighs about 4800lbs full of gear and fuel and my 07 Expedition doesn't break a sweat towing it, does a much better job than my previous '00 Suburban. I do have the 3.73 gears and h/d towing package.
 
An external trans cooler is a must and you should be fine.

#41 of 68 Re: After market addition of heavy duty trailer tow package (536) [dieselone] by 4evergreenlawn

Sep 27, 2008 (6:12 am)

Replying to: dieselone (Sep 25, 2008 4:02 pm)
Well I have found the Trans cooler as others have already posted the 2005 came standard with a trans cooler so now it is just a matter of getting the upgraded H/D trans cooler. Now sure about the H/D raditor just yet.
 
From what I am learning about the boat I am interested in (20' jet boat) only weight about 3,000bs. This should be nothing for the Expy.
 
I do have the H6 rearend code and from all I can find that is the 3:73.
 
When I get the trailer I now two things for sure reguardless of the actual weight of the boat: 1) I will pay for a twin axle trailer. (I know a single axle trailer would handle the weight BUT I have towed those on a long trip and I just would rather have the twin axles for improved stability and I have also see what single axle ttrailers for at the end of less than great boat ramps) 2) it will have electric brakes. ( I know surge brakes get teh job done but again, anyone that has done some stop and go traffic trailering with sruge brakes will know waht I am talking about)
 
New Question... How does the AIR SUSPENSION effect trailering?
 
TIA, Ron G.

#42 of 68 Re: After market addition of heavy duty trailer tow package (536) [4evergreenlawn] by dieselone

Oct 08, 2008 (7:33 pm)

Replying to: 4evergreenlawn (Sep 27, 2008 6:12 am)
it will have electric brakes. ( I know surge brakes get teh job done but again, anyone that has done some stop and go traffic trailering with sruge brakes will know waht I am talking about)
 
Well I've probably towed my boat with surge brakes 20k miles w/o an issue. Yeah, it will clunk a little but not a big deal, I just ease on the gas to let the actuator gradually pull back. Braking performance is excellent. I've also got a 25' travel trailer with electric brakes with a Prodigy inertia brake controller. It is not a whole lot better in stop and go traffic in terms of smooth brake performance.
 
I don't think you really want to deal with electric brakes on a boat trailer. It's hard enough to keep the trailer lights working with constantly being dumped in a lake. If you do go this route you'll want electric over hydraulic, that way, the hydraulic part gets wet and you'll have a lot less trouble. I'm just not convinced it's worth the money on a trailer under 5,000lbs.
 
A 3k-4k boat will be a piece of cake behind an Expedition, h/d tow package or not. If that's all your towing I wouldn't worry about a h/d radiator, still wouldn't be a bad idea to add a trans cooler.
 
Can't disagree about a tandem axle trailer. My current boat has a tandem and it rides and tows much better than my previous boat with a single axle. The only issue is it's almost impossible to move the trailer tongue more than 6" in either direction. That is sometimes an issue when positioning in our garage. If your ordering a trailer, you might want to consider a swing-able tongue. It allows me to get a 21' boat in a 23' garage.

#43 of 68 Problem w/ my lights towing a trailer...help?! by trgrund

Mar 22, 2010 (12:34 pm)

Hello,
 
Too start, let me admit I'm a dumbass when it comes to mechanics & wiring...
 
Here is my problem...I have a 2005 expedition that has the factory tow hitch. I tow a boat trailer & a little utility trailer. The left turn signal & brake light are not working.
 
I took it in to U-haul last year & the kid there said he thought it would be an easy fix, either a fuse or a relay. I bought the vehicle used & didn't have the owners manual at the time. U-haul guys messed around w/ it for a while & couldn't figure out which fuse it was. Finally the guy told me to take it to the dealership.
 
I was leaving for a camping trip w/ the boat & couldn't get it in to the dealership in time, so I just drove it w/ no left turn signal. That was at the end of last summer, I put the boat up & didn't worry about it until now.
 
I was back at u-haul for something else & was chatting w/ the kid about the taillight last week. He again said he was sure it was a fuse & he tore into it again. Of course, I still didn't have the manual...& after some frustrated effort on his part, he called the dealership & asked which fuse it was. They tried to tell him that it must be a broken wire in the line...& not the fuse. All three uhaul employees (w/ and average of 8 yrs on the job) said that every time this sort of thing has been brought in before it has been a fuse or relay, NEVER a broken wire.
 
Dealership wants $95 just to look at it....
 
I downloaded the owners manual w/ the fuse/relay diagram. According to the diagram, fuse #42 is the "trailer tow left/stoplamps"...I checked this fuse & guess what?...it was blown. I changed the fuse, super happy that I figured this out w/ out paying the dealerships outrageous prices....I hooked the trailer up & guess what?...still no left turn signal or brake light. Rechecked the fuse & it's still good. (I'm sure this question is coming up, so...I actually own three trailers, I tried all 3 & same problem, so the problem is NOT the trailer)
 
ANY ADVISE OR GUESSES OUT THERE?....please help, thanks.

#44 of 68 Fuse by alwaysfords2

Mar 22, 2010 (2:22 pm)

I agree with the fuse route, I've had the same issue. I've also had fuses that looked ok but weren't. For giggles, why don't you try another? I had the exact problem you describe on the right sideof my '03. Two fuses later and it never happened again. You may also want to wiggle the fuse a bit to make sure it is making solid contact in it's slot. If it still doesn't work, or blows again, it may very well be a wire that has lost it's insulation or something causing it to blow.

Messages Page 5 of 8

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