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SUVs Ford Expedition Ford Expedition Towing Questions
42 messages, Last post on Oct 08, 2008 at 6:33 PM
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Replying to: waygrabow (Jul 27, 2008 2:03 pm)
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Replying to: tomcincy (Aug 10, 2008 7:49 pm) Yes that's true. I believe it's in the Expedition manual. I've found out something else that may be usefull. There is a spark plug removal problem in the 5.4 Liter engine. The plugs have a long shank below the threads in a tight hole in the head going down to and open to the combustion chamber. I called a lot of Ford mechanics and finally may have found the solution. On a Warm Engine, (most Ford Service reps said Cold engine, wrong) losen the spark plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Then spray carb cleaner around the plug. It goes around the threads and breaks lose the carbon and crud build-up around the long shank of the plug. I replaced my plugs using this procedure and everthing worked OK. You can hear the carb cleaner bubbling/sizzling, and the plugs came out fine. I used a magnet to pull them out and had to wiggle a couple of plugs. Still a pain and knuckle busting job; but, didn't break any plugs. Champain makes a one piece plug, the stock plugs appear to be a bonded two piece shank. They are expensive and may not be necessary with the above procedure with a stock plug. Woody |
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Replying to: tomcincy (Aug 10, 2008 7:49 pm) It may say that in a manual but in reality, that is not that simple. Most trailers weighing close to 9k lbs will require a w/d hitch because they will have tongue weight of 10-15% of total weight. 900-1350lbs of tongue weight is more than most pickups/SUVs can safely handle on the hitch ball. Boats are different because they usually have tongue weights of 5-10% of total weight which in most instances does not require a w/d hitch. The key to towing with any vehicle is to make sure you don't overload the axles on the tow vehicle and having a trailer with proper weight distribution and the proper hitch and brake setup. I use my 07 Expedition to tow our 25' travel trailer that is around 6,000lbs loaded. I use a w/d hitch with a sway control device to safely tow the trailer. Used the same setup with my previous Suburban. Realistically, I would not tow 9,000lbs with any 1/2 ton truck. IMO, if your towing that much, you need a 3/4 ton. 80% of max tow rating is a more real world number. |
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Replying to: dwsenko (May 20, 2008 9:23 am) I picked up a 2007 Expedition w/ standard cooling. I knew towing might be an issue, but the deal was too good to pass up. My trailer weighs 5,500 lbs empty, so I thought there would at least be a chance that I would be OK even w/ a 6,000 lb tow rating. First couple of times towing were no problem. Pulling Rabbit Ears Pass (Colorado, near Steamboat Springs, 7.5% grade) proved too much, and we overheated about 300 yards from the top. Bummer. Long story short, I ordered and received the HD radiator and TOC. (The TOC is obviously a different and larger-capacity part.) The radiator invoice and box list the correct part number, 7L1Z8005B, however I see no difference at all in the replacement radiator. I know from this thread that it is the 'fins per inch' that is supposed to be different, but the 'fins per inch' of the new and old radiators seems to be the same -- I measure about 16 fins per inch across the outside (curiously, neither the 13 of the standard nor the 19 of the HD part as listed in the 2008 F150 guide noted elsewhere in this thread). Is this where I should be measuring, or is the fins per inch measured depth-wise? The PN on the sticker afixed to the radiator itself is 7L14-8005-BC, so I am concerned that I received a mis-packaged radiator. Does anybody have the PN for the standard-duty radiator? Thanks for the help; I'd like to have a clue before I go back to the selling dealer (if I even need to.) Dakota123
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Replying to: dakota123 (Sep 12, 2008 8:47 am) My part numbers from the invoice were: 1........7L1Z-7A095-B....Oil Cooler Asy 1........7L1Z-8005-B......Radiator Asy >> The PN on the sticker afixed to the radiator itself is 7L14-8005-BC Typo?
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Replying to: dwsenko (Sep 12, 2008 9:43 am) I don't think so. I haven't had any luck finding the standard-duty PN. All of the authorized resellers seem to use the same catalog system, and it hides the PN unless you happen to already know it and search for the part by number. >>1........7L1Z-8005-B......Radiator Asy That's what my invoice and the shipping box says also, but as I said, I see absolutely no difference between the installed radiator and the replacement, even after measuring what I presume to be 'fins per inch'. Dakota123
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Replying to: dakota123 (Sep 12, 2008 10:39 am) The standard-duty radiator is 7L1Z-8005-A. I should have guessed... The 7L148005BC number on the radiator itself is Ford's engineering number. The dealer says that it cross-references to 7L1Z-8005-B, which is the super-cooling part. So it seems to be the correct part after all. I just wish it were more obvious! Dakota123
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Replying to: dakota123 (Sep 13, 2008 8:04 am) I replaced the original standard-cooling radiator and trans. oil cooler w/ the super-cooling parts over the weekend. The standard-cooling radiator carries a 7L148005AC engineering no., which corresponds to a 7L1Z-8005-A part no. The super cooling engineering no. is 7L148005BC and the part no. is 7L1Z-8005-B. There is actually a visible difference once you put both radiators side-by-side. The fins extend farther on one side on the super-cooling part -- flush with the side tank on one side and within 1/4" or so of flush on the other, whereas on the standard-cooling part the fins are flush on one side but only within 1/2" or so of flush on the other. Also, the fins are much thinner, aiding heat transfer (and making the fins more fragile, easier to flatten if you brush against them). The job was maybe a 2 1/2 out of five on the pain-in-the-a** meter, and took me about 6 hours including replacement of the transmission oil cooler. Some of that was head scratching, figuring how to gain enough clearance between the A/C condenser and the radiator to allow the radiator to come out-- I didn't want to have to dump the A/C charge. The good news is that it can be done without overstressing anything, either on removal or re-installation, although you have to break the condenser support tabs off of the radiator to be removed. (Well, that's what I eventually did; there may be a way to do it without breaking the tabs, but I finally had had enough...) Happy to help if anyone wants more detail. Dakota123
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Replying to: dakota123 (Sep 15, 2008 7:46 am) I have had my share of experiences with ordering trucks and sale people that think they know what they are selling you. I own 7 Ford truck for my business and doing very simple add ons have become a battle of wits with the Service department. With that being said.....I recently purchased a 2005 Expedition E/B 4X4, Must say I got a great deal. My intention is to trailer the boat I have not yet purchased which will weight about 5000-6000lbs. From reading here I can tell you that I have the 4 plug only on the hitch. I have seen the dual 7/4 plug on other Expeditions and now realize what I was told was the TOW PACKAGE (6,000lbs) is just that and there is a HD version (8,900). Without knowing which rear end I have if i DO NOT have the 3:73 rear would is still be worth doing the balance of the HD upgrade as listed here by others? OR just leave things as is add a brake controller and a 7 pin plug? As a side note I would never even think about towing anything close to 9000lbs with an Expedition. TIA Ron G. |
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