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SUVs Jeep Wrangler Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)
261 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 5:12 PM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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I have an 83 CJ7 Jeep that I have removed the trans from and replaced the clutch. Now that I am attempting to replace it in the engine, it refuses to go enough to engage the spline gear. I have manually turned the engine many times, but it still refuses to go that last inch and a half. It appears to be aligned but just won't go. I greased the spline as required, so that is probably not the problem. Any suggestions? Dave
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Replying to: davedenn (Jun 27, 2009 9:10 am) If all you have done is to replace the clutch, then either the friction plate is not properly centered, or the pilot bearing has moved or is damaged. Also, if you've allowed the weight of the transmission to hang on the clutch while trying to install it, you might have warped the center of the friction plate. |
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When I removed the transmission, I cleaned the spline and shaft well with brake cleaner and wiped it down before applying the thin layer of grease from the small packet that came with the new clutch. We did not replace the pilot bearing (it appeared in good shape) so that should not be an issue. We checked the alignment tool for mating with the old clutch, and it appeared a good match. As for the hanging part, we are using two 3 ton floor jacks to support the transmission, transfer case, and bell housing. The difficulty is the weight of the transfer case. I am considering removing it so the transmission won't be so heavy, but have never do one before. The Chilton manual is a bit hazy on the subject, so I reluctant to remove it. I may check the alignment of the clutch because I am not sure whether my son (who aligned it) considered the centering when bolting it on. Thanks for your suggestions. if you have any about removing the transfer case, please let me know. Dave
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Replying to: davedenn (Jun 28, 2009 8:07 am) Centering the friction plate requires finesse, it isn't just a case of 'if the tool fits it must be good'. Start by mounting the clutch assembly to the flywheel with the alignment tool in place, but only lightly tighten the clutch cover bolts. The friction plate should be free to move when a little sideways pressure is applied to the tool. Using the tool, push the friction plate all the way up, then all the way down. The exact center of alignment in the vertical plane will be half way between the two positions. Now move the plate from one side to the other to find the center of alignment in the horizontal plane. The tricky part is maintain the center position in one plane while aligning the other, but you'll soon get a feel for it after practicing it a few times. Finally, torque down the cover housing to the correct setting and, just as important, in the correct order. Despite the grease packet that came with your clutch, I stand by what I said. The grease will hold both dust from the friction material and dirt, neither of which will contribute to the smooth operation of the clutch. Use a graphite lubricant which either comes as a dry powder or as graphite flakes suspended in a liquid carrier which will evaporate after application. Available from most hardware stores, here's a link to both types at ACE Hardware. |
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Someone mentioned earlier that this site contains a jeep repair manual. Does anyone know how I access it? I am trying to get some details on how to replace the U-Joint on my 83 Jeep CJ7. Dave
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Replying to: davedenn (Jul 09, 2009 8:18 am) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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| how do you get the shifter rod off so you can work inside to see if shift forks are the issue? it will not shift and it looks like someone was in it once.I have no clue as to how to repair this anyone had past issues? | |
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Replying to: boobah (Apr 24, 2007 2:16 pm) |
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| I have a 1992 Jeep Wrangler S 2.5 L. The problem I am having is when I start it will run real rough and idle will increase and decrease contiously. When i take off will be starving for fuel. When i run it on the road it will do good until I turn it off and will do the same thing. I have replaced the TPS and fuel filter. Anyone have anymore solutions. At this time not getting a check engine code | |
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| So I'm replacing the clutch in my '93 Wrangler with 4.0 engine and am having issues with removing the transmission/transfer case. All the bolts etc. are out, but it is binding up on the block. I am using a transmission lift but imagine there is a "sweet spot" that gives the best balance fore and aft. Any ideas? | |
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