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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions 2007 and newer

159 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 12:41 PM
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Replying to: dldjeep01 (Oct 30, 2007 5:48 pm) I noticed your post was in 2007. Can you tell me what ever happened with your situation? I have been reading tons of posts about this flaw and it doesn't look very promising as far as finding a quick fix....or any fix at all. Any suggestions you may have would be really helpful. |
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Replying to: kfudem (Oct 05, 2009 11:41 am) My complaint was entered as: Customer states steering shakes excessively when hitting bumps The dealership replaced The Damper, steering Customer states loud clunk in rear end when shifting into drive after backing up Cause: Spider gears teeth broken and clutch noisy The dealership replaced the rear differential pumpkin assembly and bearing S. replaced fluids and added additives Parts included: Seal-Drive Pinion Bearing -Drive Pinion Bearing-Differential side Spacer-Drive Pinion Bearing Case Kit-Differential Bearing-Drive Pinion Sealer Lubricant Lubricant Adhessive-Stud and Bearing Trac-lock equipped Rear Disc BrakesEquipped-both sides Bearings, Pinion-All Axles-Replaced It took them 12 days and now it's making a clanging sound when I ecellerate???????????? I am so frustrated Ihad a 2001 Jeep Wrangler and had no major problems I have had to replace the front brakes within 10 months and believe all these other issues were what caused my brakes to wear so fast, but had to pay another $300 again within a year on front brakes and $359. for the back. The Dealership I brought the Jeep to was in Kingwood, Texas and because I bought an extended Warrenty I got a free rental that I drove off the lot with then every morning tire was low so i put air in then brought it back to them to fix and I had to buy a $100. tire because there was a nail in the side (which was miost likely there when I rented) they also charged me $20. labor to put a new tire on their PT cruiser even though if I had been in my realitivly new Jeep it would have been covered cuz I purchased the road hazard warrenty they PUSH on you when buying tires even though apparently they don't find it nessasary on their own vehicles
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Replying to: kellykay474 (Oct 05, 2009 12:47 pm) |
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Replying to: kellykay474 (Oct 05, 2009 12:47 pm) Why would they go to the expense of buying it for their own vehicles when they can get the customer to pay for any tire damage? As the economy gets tougher some businesses will reduce spending on items that they believe will reduce their profits. Other businesses will increase spending on the same items, believing that an increase in happy customers will add to their profits. I believe your dealer falls into the first group. |
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| I had the 'lizard install the woods relocation bracket and the beefier stabilizer on our non-lifted wrangler(for now). I jumped the gun. I was the first person to try and do that there. Oh well back to factory for now but that bracket will stay on for later use. Just happen to click on the other thread first and caught the end of the steering info from mac and eric. Understand a lot more about the wrangler and like it even more and need to get my tools ready. | |
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Replying to: kfudem (Oct 05, 2009 11:41 am) |
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Replying to: flynlevel (Jun 02, 2008 8:28 am) |
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| Man, sure wish I had read this a few weeks ago. I just had the same problem, what a scary thing. I had a problem about a month ago, was stranded in Bakersfield for a night as they replaced a speed sensor when two lights came on my dash. Then two weeks later the shaking started. First thought it was the freeway then it happen a week later then a few days later of course when I was quite a ways from home. Found a Jeep dealer and they told me what it was but they didn't have the part. Said it was ok to drive home but take it to my home dealer ASAP. Did that and they did replace the steering stablizer. Now a week later my OBD light came on so its going back to the dealer again on Friday. I have a 2007 Wrangler Sahara 4-door. My third jeep but first wrangler. Never had any problems with my Cherokee's. Not too happy right now, only have 15,000 miles on it. Starting to wonder if this was a good choice or not being that I drive long distant alone alot and really need a dependable car. Not looking like this has been a problem that is being fixed. Any thoughts or anyone else changing their minds on this car? | |
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| 7500 miles and replaced the transfer case fluid with redline. But also just filled the tank and added the usual dose of redline to the gas. Just coincidence or what, I don't know but the rubicon is running better than ever. If it's the redline then I'll investigate the torque converter (for any aftermaket that will produce gains) and move the change all tranny fluid up on the list of things to do. | |
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Just replaced 6 month old new style hood latches with the same part no listed in the tsb for $9. A few weeks ago traveled against the wind to OK and passing trucks had hood flutter. The next day again against a south wind, after better_half reclined to try and get some rest and while passing a truck, heard that horrible bang bang. Guess being an oldtimer was shocked but no pucker of the derriere. Yesterday, bought the daystars from the four wheel parts store nearby. Ignored their instruction sheets to remove the latches and break apart in a vise. Just carefully hack sawed off the passenger side lower pin at the front and popped the rest of the pin out towards the back. New pin bigger than hole in the bracket. Called the store about return and they also had me call daystar. At the store I offered the clerk to see what I was telling them. Got my refund. Several ideas on the net about these darn latches-just give us a normal hood like everybody else has had for years. Hood flutter on our previa and one of our e150 vans was cured by turning those stupid plastic or rubber hood stops. Some say use the daystars (not for 09 or 10 yet), others use the cable tie over the weak rubber, and another says to remove the hood spring. Nobody ever posts why they did what they did. The spring wants to push up the hood the latch rubber bands want to hold it down and that little piece of rubber on the latch protects against hood metal meeting fender metal. I'll stick with the weak factory rubber, which might last longer, now that the hood spring is removed. |
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