Last post on Dec 27, 2012 at 2:57 AM
You are in the Mazda MPV
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Mazda MPV, Electrical, Van
#54 of 73 Parking brake and interior lights
Feb 25, 2011 (9:07 am)
This is a great forum and I have been able to get very valuable tips on our Mazda 2003 MPV in the past. Now we have a weird problem:
Whenever the parking break is engaged, the "parking break" sign lights up on the dashboard. In addition, the "door open" sign also lights up on the dashboard and all the interior lights are on (even with all the doors closed!!). When the parking break is disengaged, the "parking break" and the "door open" signs go off in the dashboard and the interior light turn off as well.
Looks like there is a short somewhere in the system. Can someone please help me about the possible causes?
#55 of 73 Re: 2004 Mazda MPV issues [swagner34]
Apr 07, 2011 (9:44 am)
There was also a recall on that module. I had to have the one in my '03 replaced; check with your dealership to see if your vehicle fell under the recall. Issue was that the fan would either Not run ever causing serious overheating issues OR would run constantly even after the car was turned off thereby running down your battery.
#56 of 73 problem 2003 mpv
Jun 03, 2011 (8:08 pm)
I got 13 yrs from a ford , 14 yrs from a nissan and only 8 from the mazda, very upset over the cost of repairs I have spent over 4,000 in last two years constant engine light coming on constant misfire problems now I am told I am looking at another 4,000 repair never again I would like to see a car company take some responsibility there is something wrong the design of this van
#57 of 73 Re: Parking brake and interior lights [sramamur1]
Jun 12, 2011 (6:56 am)
I have exactly same issues as yours, I currently remove bulbs of door light.
Mechanics spent 1 hour and can not figure out what's wrong. Did you fix yours problems?
#58 of 73 Re: Parking brake and interior lights [stevenzhuli]
Jun 12, 2011 (7:51 am)
For us it happens only when it is wet (rain/snow). Apparently the problem is an electrical short somewhere under the chassis near the parking brake area. The tech told me that it will be time consuming to rip it apart and fix the problem. Hence we have decided not to engage the parking brake while parked.
#59 of 73 Re: Parking brake and interior lights [sramamur1]
Jun 12, 2011 (11:26 am)
Thanks, I am doing the same thing for almost 1 month: not use hand brake, it seams going to stay that way forever. I did remove the seats and carpet to check if any water accumulated around hand brake area. But everything looks fine. If like you said under the chassis, I may have to dig deeper on that.
My van was sitting outside garage in 3 days rain, then it happened. So must be shortcut. Another issue is driver side sliding door remote control not working, but manual power door works fine. The day head light flashing sometimes. The Tech said Ford and Mazda has similar issue due to some electrical module failed. I am not sure about that.
#60 of 73 Does replacing MPV coils solve the problem?
Jun 26, 2011 (2:06 pm)
While travelling a year ago, my 2003 MP3 had a one-time cylinder misfire. I had the code checked at the time, but the problem did not recur for a year and thousands of miles.
A few days ago, also while I am travelling, the MPV had a cylinder #5 misfire CEL, this time repeatedly and with loss of power. We had the #5 coil replaced, as well as all the spark plugs. Driving the van back home (10 miles) was fine. The next morning within a mile of starting the van, the CEL is on again and the van is losing power. I haven't had the codes checked again yet.
Can anyone comment on the claim by 'buzzk' that the factory coils have a vent which permits water to short the plugs?
This explanation would account for the fact that our failures have occurred while travelling and on holidays (when our car is not stored in a garage) and after rainfalls and in the morning. Others have also observed these things. Thus, I am convinced that moisture is the problem, though I am not sure what part of the vehicle is at fault.
I have already paid to have one coil replaced and fear repeating the same exercise endlessly. I am away from home and cannot do the repairs myself. My questions are
1) For those who have gone ahead and replaced all 6 of the original factory coils, has the problem been solved?
2) How can I identify which coils to buy to avoid this moisture problem?
A hearty thanks to anyone who can help!
Yesterday morning, I couldn't touch the accelerator without the check-engine light flashing (with loss of power and rough riding). Today, I waited until 4pm when it was over 90 degrees outside. I let the MPV warm up for 5 minutes, and then I drove it around and couldn't make the check engine light flash once. It does look like something is getting wet.
#61 of 73 Re: Does replacing MPV coils solve the problem? [rolling]
Jun 26, 2011 (11:05 pm)
I’m ‘buzzk’ & the vent in the OEM [jargon: “original equipment manufacturer”] coil design
most assuredly IS there. I dug out one of the factory OEM coils that I replaced, several years ago,
with after-market units. I am looking at it as I type. The vent is about 21 mm long & is
rectangular in cross-section, loosely about a little over 3 by 1 mm, on the inside. However, at the
top, which is outside & exposed to atmospheric conditions under the hood, it only has a small
opening you could easily miss. It’s round & easily allows passage though of an acoustic guitar
wrapped 4th string - about 32 to 36 thousandths of an inch. Not big, but HUGE where water vapor
molecules are concerned. Until we fixed this, driving in, or just after, a heavy rain could be quite
exciting. Some wag said [I thought somewhat dismissively], that the vent is “one-way.” The
vents in the coil units that came from the factory on OUR 2004 MPV are most assuredly NOT
Re piece-meal repairs [one coil at a time]: I doubt seriously that it’s good practice. In fact I
wonder about repair dishonesty. In my partly mis-spent youth I worked in the shop for a
Motorcycle & used-car dealer. If I did such a half-baked repair the owner of the shop would
probably not have been happy. The usual better practice would be to replace the whole set, but....
If everybody’s replacing these with OEM parts, AND if the OEM design has not been modified
to fix the problem, [or they’re using up old stock before buying an improved design] you gain
little & will be back reliably for more repairs [& it’ll cost a bundle; the whole set of after-market
coils I got from ebay were apparently less than what our dealer wanted for ONE OEM coil]. I can
understand the dealer could well feel pressure to use only “genuine” factory parts, but a savvy
independent should do better.
You need a coil that has NO vent whatsoever and seals the spark-well effectively & reliably. I’ve
worked with many similar spark-well designs over the years & never encountered something like
this. It really takes the cake
#62 of 73 Re: Does replacing MPV coils solve the problem? [buzzk]
Jun 28, 2011 (12:43 pm)
Yesterday, we were able to drive the MPV 3 hours in the hot afternoon without a problem. Today the misfiring recommenced immediately upon starting. We got the codes checked and now it's cylinder #4 misfiring.
I've ordered a set of coils and plan to replace them all myself or pay to have a mechanic do it. Any idea if these have the venting defect?
I figured I'd see when they arrived; the cost savings is so great it's worth a try.
#63 of 73 Re: Does replacing MPV coils solve the problem? [rolling]
Jun 28, 2011 (8:51 pm)
that's about what I paid for them on ebay & they're the same color as my non-eom ["aftermarket"] replacements. but.. if the picture is accurate, they are the same shape as the factory vented coils & I can't tell from the picture if they also have the vent. the eom part sits flat on the rim at the top of the spark-plug-well - this picture looks the same. over many years of working with otherwise similar designs they always fitted over & around the raised lip like a fitted cup and NEVER had a vent. My aftermarket coils from ebay also fit like that [likely makes a lot better seal] AND have no vent.
I'm just a guy whose been around the block a few times, used to be a well-trained Navy tech, did some mechanic work [still work on my own], etc, but this vent business seems just plain whacky to me..
Good Luck & let us know for sure, OK?