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Pickups Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Trailer and Towing Questions
193 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 7:57 AM
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I followed the instructions below from a previous post. Followed instructions exactly, everything went well, except that after sitting for a couple days the battery is stone cold dead. BTW I installed a Prodigy controller. Any ideas?? Greetings: This took me a little research to get right and even the dealer who sold me the truck didn't know.. so here is the scoop! There is no pigtail wire set for the 2007 silverado ( new body style ) and even if you got the max trailering package the dwebs at chevy didn't wire the trailering electrical or the brake control wiring for you! What were they thinking....well they are offering an in dash brake controller in thier following series and they prewired it for that option. 1) There is a bundle of blunt cut wires below the dash to the left of the steering column above the fuse box that is labeled and tucked around some other wires. Pull the blundle down. There will be 5 wires, with black electrical tape on the ends. Red and Black is the hot , positive battery wire, white is ground, negative. Blue and white is the input tail-brake light wire and the all dark blue wire is the trailer output brake voltage. The last wire, I believe , is for the brake controller light, but I am not certain. I did not use that wire. Consult your instructions . The next step is to open the hood, take off the top on the fuse box and locate space 65 and 70. Get a 40 amp fuse and put it into space that is labeled 65, this is the brake output voltage fuse, the voltage to your brake controller, post 65. the 70 space has a 30 amp fuse in it. Now go between the left fender and the fuse box and locate the red/black wire. This is attached to the post that is larger and silver on the front of the fuse box. Nuts not included. They are metric 10-1.5 course. the other black post is 8mm. Get the red black wire wrapped below the master cyclinder and attach it to the black post ( smaller ). You can't make a mistake with the wires because they can't be attached to the incorrect post, one is smaller than the other ( the opening ) The jist is that you need 2 nuts and a 40 amp fuse. Not supplied with the truck... now.. You are set. The reason for wiring the brake controller to the post is for 12 volt use from the main batter. If you use a secondary auxillary battery the wiring will be different . Good luck and thank chevy for making this a mystery or misery as the case may be. Read your manual under brake controller and it seems a little more clear, but just a little. I read it over about 3 times before I understood what they were getting at. Boy how could they not wire the trailering wiring.? Duh!. |
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Replying to: 1offroader (Aug 26, 2007 2:22 pm) "Z82 Heavy-Duty Trailering Equipment Package includes trailer hitch platform and trailer electrical connector" Z82: TRAILERING EQUIPMENT, HEAVY-DUTY, includes trailering hitch platform and 2-inch receiver, 7-wire harness (harness includes wires for: park lamps, backup lamps, right turn, left turn, electric brake lead, battery and ground) with independent fused trailering circuits mated to a 7-way sealed connector, wiring harness for after-market trailer brake controller (located in the instrument panel harness), and single wire for center high-mounted stop lamp, (K47) high-capacity air cleaner and (KNP) external transmission oil cooler (Included with (NHT) Max Trailering Pack. Included with (PCY) Towing Package.)
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Replying to: 2007denali (Aug 29, 2007 11:40 am) |
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Replying to: 1offroader (Aug 26, 2007 2:22 pm) controller to the NBS GMT-900 trucks. It shows the interior blunt cut wires and where their hidden along with the 2 wires hidden under the hood that need to be hooked up............. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64063&hl=trailer+brake+contr- oller |
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Replying to: 1offroader (Aug 26, 2007 2:22 pm) I tried to duplicate making the truck battery go dead, couldn't do it. I left the controller installed and connected, and let the truck sit for 3 days just like before. No problem, truck started right up. I also checked the amperage that the controller draws while at rest, the specs say it should draw 15 mA, and it does. Everything seems to check out fine. I even had a friend who is extremely knowledgeable about electronics (he designs radar antennas for a living) check my wiring & etc. & he gave it a thumbs up. So.....I think what happened is that I left on a dome light, left a door partly open, or etc. & the battery drained. There appears to be no problem now, & I could not reproduce the original problem under the same conditions. However, I think I am going to install a good quality switch on the black/red hot wire under the hood located between the fuse box and fender. This is the power supply wire to the controller. When I'm not towing (98% of the time) I'll just turn the switch to 'off', that way there is no possible way for the controller to drain the battery. When I hook up the trailer I can just pop the hood open and turn on the switch to power the controller, and I'm ready to go. 1offroader
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Replying to: 1offroader (Sep 01, 2007 12:58 pm)
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Replying to: 01rado (Sep 03, 2007 5:41 am) No. Under the dash, the black/red truck wire goes to the Prodigy black wire (hot). The light blue/white truck wire goes to the red Prodigy wire (brake light). The dk. blue to dk. blue (trailer brakes), and white to white (ground). Under the hood, I connected the 2 black/red wires to their respective posts on the fuse box, and installed a 40A fuse in slot 70 in the fuse box. That's all there needs to be done. 1offroader
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Replying to: 1offroader (Sep 03, 2007 7:59 am) |
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I have a brand new 2500HD Silverado with 700 miles on it. It uses a factory trailer braking system, which is new to me. When pulling my toy hauler, and applying the brake, the engine races and the RPMs go up to about 2000 to 2500 as the vehicle is slowing down. I am not sure why this is happening nor am I sure what I may do to eliminate this from happening as it seems that the engine should not race as the vehicle slows. Can anybody provide any guidance e.g., is the gain set too high, too low, something else? The dealer says don't worry.
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