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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Trailer and Towing Questions

192 messages, Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 5:32 PM
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Replying to: pantera123 (Sep 06, 2009 5:08 pm) If you DO NOT have dual batteries, then you have to put a fuse in "Stud 1" position in the fuse box under the hood. If you do have the dual battery setup, the trailer 12v constant *should* be switched without the fuse... |
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Replying to: bcouv1 (Aug 09, 2009 11:33 am) the 40 amp fuse in the Stud1 connector should go to the solid red wire (which was taped under the master cylinder?), which is the 12v constant to the trailer harness. What you're looking for is a Red/Black (I think that's the right colors) wire that connects to stud 2. I believe that wire is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inside fender wall... I get the locations of the two confused, because both are already hooked up on my truck. But one wire is taped under the master cylinder, and one is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the left inner fender wall. They are two different wires, with two different sized ends, and each will only properly fit on one stud or the other. I do know for a fact that the stud-1 wire is the trailer 12v constant wire, and the brake controller is the one that connects to stud-2... Hope this helps... |
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Replying to: countryboy34 (Sep 26, 2009 7:39 am) You should note that in this picture, the wire "colors" are incorrect, but their positions are correct. This is standard 7 pin wiring. The Auxiliary pin in the middle is setup from the factory as the reverse light lead. There are two wires under your hood that need to be hooked up. One of them powers the 12v port on the trailer connector, and the other is the power lead for the electric brake harness under the dash. I forget which wire is where, but one of them is taped on the firewall under the master cylinder and the other is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inner fender. They're two different sized wires, with different sized ends. One of them connects to "stud 1" and the other connects to "stud 2". The ends are sized to properly fit on only one of the studs each, so you can't mess it up... Finally, be sure that there is a 40a fuse in the "stud 1" location, and a 30a fuse in the "stud 2" location. for a 2004, you should be pretty much plug-and-play to connect the electric brake controller in the cab. But once it's hooked up, verify VERIFY VERIFY that all lights work properly on the trailer, and that the trailer brakes don't lock up when you turn on the headlights. Some Chevy/GMC harnesses under the dash are incorrect and lock up the trailer brakes when the headlights are turned on. If this happens to you, I hear it's just cutting and switching two wires around, but I don't have the details on that... So, it's definitely not going to be a 5 minute install, but if you spend some time researching the points I've made here before you go hooking up wires, it can be a 30 minute install including testing... Hope this helps.. |
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I have been trying to determine whether I can tow more than the 6700 lbs listed in my owners manual. I purchased a new '09 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab with the standard bed. It has the 5.3 LMG engine with flex fuel capability, it's coupled to a 4 speed auto, and the rear gear ratio is 3.42 with the locking rear differential. It was upgraded with the heavy duty towing package, the HD trans cooler, and has the Z71, and z82 packages. This will be used to tow a lightweight fifth wheel. I contacted GMC and they couldn't help. I have looked everywhere and can't determine whether the packages improved the payload or just added a safety factor to towing. Any ideas? Thanks |
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