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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Trailer and Towing Questions

195 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 6:12 AM
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Replying to: oakb (Sep 22, 2009 7:24 am)
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Replying to: grizzly4 (Sep 22, 2009 9:05 am) |
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Replying to: davethecarnut (Sep 23, 2009 10:19 pm) |
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i just recently bought a 1500 sierra with a factory installed tow package and wnat put hook up electric brakes for towing. i have read that all i need to do is plup in the controller in under the dash which i found. i know other people that have done this and needed to get a resetable circuit breaker for it. do i need to get one or is it all set to go. and if so where is it? is it a fuse or a circuit breaker. also anyone know what the wiring diagram is on the factory 7 plug for the trailer? are one of the slot for a constant 12v accewsory? do i need a fuse for it or anything else to hook it up. cause i checked with a volt meter and i couldn't seem to find one. any help would be appreciated
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| Looking to buy used truck, but not sure if it strong enough for what I have. I tow my trailer with a F150 and I hate knowing it is too small for my trailer. 10,000 lb. trailers are heavy, do I need to worry with a 6.0L HD? | |
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Replying to: hbilow (Mar 12, 2007 9:09 pm) --- I spent quite some time today going through my 2003 GMC 2500HD truck trying to get an answer to this very question. And I think I've figured out why... My truck has the plow prep package and the towing prep package. It also has dual batteries. I found that part of my dual battery setup connects an extra wire directly to stud 1 (not the fuse location, the actual stud below the plastic cover) that gives it power when the key is in the "on" position. This effectively makes stud 1 a switched power source. If one were to put a fuse in the stud 1 spot, then it would make the trailer wire live all the time, but it would also feed power back into some portion of the dual battery setup as well, which I would think is bad... There has to be a reason for the switched source, and I assume that GM had a reason for making stud 1 switch that way. I'm assuming this power feedback would cause some other things that are expected to be off when the key is off to stay on all the time... And, if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense. Why would you want to charge the trailer battery without the truck running? You'd want the power switched so that your trailer can't drain your truck's batteries... However, you'd want to run off of the truck's power if and only if there's an "unlimited" source there. You wouldn't want to drain the truck's battery by running your trailer off just the truck battery. But running the trailer off the truck's alternator? That's a better idea. This adds more credence to the idea of only powering it when the truck is in the "on" position, because 99.9% of the time when the truck is in the "on" position, it's running... I think if you checked your 12v wire in the trailer connector, you'll likely find that it is dead when the key is in the "off" or "accessory" positions, but is live when the key is in the "on" position... At least, I did... Hope this helps. -ET |
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Replying to: pantera123 (Sep 06, 2009 5:08 pm) If you DO NOT have dual batteries, then you have to put a fuse in "Stud 1" position in the fuse box under the hood. If you do have the dual battery setup, the trailer 12v constant *should* be switched without the fuse... |
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Replying to: bcouv1 (Aug 09, 2009 11:33 am) the 40 amp fuse in the Stud1 connector should go to the solid red wire (which was taped under the master cylinder?), which is the 12v constant to the trailer harness. What you're looking for is a Red/Black (I think that's the right colors) wire that connects to stud 2. I believe that wire is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inside fender wall... I get the locations of the two confused, because both are already hooked up on my truck. But one wire is taped under the master cylinder, and one is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the left inner fender wall. They are two different wires, with two different sized ends, and each will only properly fit on one stud or the other. I do know for a fact that the stud-1 wire is the trailer 12v constant wire, and the brake controller is the one that connects to stud-2... Hope this helps... |
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