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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Trailer and Towing Questions

195 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 6:12 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic, Chevrolet Silverado 2500, Chevrolet Silverado 3500, GMC Sierra 1500, GMC Sierra 2500, GMC Sierra 3500, Towing, Truck

#186 of 195 WILL A '03 2500HD 6.0L TOW A 10K TOYHAULER? by harrisoncrazy4 Oct 01, 2009 (9:32 pm)
#187 of 195 WILL A '03 2500HD 6.0L TOW A 10K TOYHAULER? by harrisoncrazy4 Oct 01, 2009 (9:32 pm)
Looking to buy used truck, but not sure if it strong enough for what I have. I tow my trailer with a F150 and I hate knowing it is too small for my trailer. 10,000 lb. trailers are heavy, do I need to worry with a 6.0L HD?
#188 of 195 Re: Trailer connector fuse? [hbilow] by etmegabyte Nov 09, 2009 (7:24 pm)
Replying to: hbilow (Mar 12, 2007 9:09 pm) Quote: I have a 2005 2500HD with the Duramax, with the same problem of no aux power in the trailer connector. I checked in the manual and it says DO NOT install a fuse in the STUD 1 location on vehicles equipped with the diesel or 2 batteries..... I have both. Any ideas?   ---   I spent quite some time today going through my 2003 GMC 2500HD truck trying to get an answer to this very question. And I think I've figured out why...   My truck has the plow prep package and the towing prep package. It also has dual batteries. I found that part of my dual battery setup connects an extra wire directly to stud 1 (not the fuse location, the actual stud below the plastic cover) that gives it power when the key is in the "on" position. This effectively makes stud 1 a switched power source.   If one were to put a fuse in the stud 1 spot, then it would make the trailer wire live all the time, but it would also feed power back into some portion of the dual battery setup as well, which I would think is bad... There has to be a reason for the switched source, and I assume that GM had a reason for making stud 1 switch that way.   I'm assuming this power feedback would cause some other things that are expected to be off when the key is off to stay on all the time...   And, if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense. Why would you want to charge the trailer battery without the truck running? You'd want the power switched so that your trailer can't drain your truck's batteries... However, you'd want to run off of the truck's power if and only if there's an "unlimited" source there. You wouldn't want to drain the truck's battery by running your trailer off just the truck battery. But running the trailer off the truck's alternator? That's a better idea. This adds more credence to the idea of only powering it when the truck is in the "on" position, because 99.9% of the time when the truck is in the "on" position, it's running...   I think if you checked your 12v wire in the trailer connector, you'll likely find that it is dead when the key is in the "off" or "accessory" positions, but is live when the key is in the "on" position... At least, I did...   Hope this helps.   -ET
#189 of 195 Re: 2002 Silverado trailer plug [pantera123] by etmegabyte Nov 09, 2009 (9:21 pm)
Replying to: pantera123 (Sep 06, 2009 5:08 pm) pantera123, do you have a dual battery setup? Have you checked if there's power to the 12v constant when the key is in the "on" position? My 2003 2500HD has dual batteries, and the 12v wire is switched on only when the key is in the "on" position.   If you DO NOT have dual batteries, then you have to put a fuse in "Stud 1" position in the fuse box under the hood. If you do have the dual battery setup, the trailer 12v constant *should* be switched without the fuse...
#190 of 195 Re: No power to electric brake connector on 06 Silverado [bcouv1] by etmegabyte Nov 09, 2009 (10:13 pm)
Replying to: bcouv1 (Aug 09, 2009 11:33 am) I think you hooked up the wrong wire.   the 40 amp fuse in the Stud1 connector should go to the solid red wire (which was taped under the master cylinder?), which is the 12v constant to the trailer harness.   What you're looking for is a Red/Black (I think that's the right colors) wire that connects to stud 2. I believe that wire is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inside fender wall...   I get the locations of the two confused, because both are already hooked up on my truck. But one wire is taped under the master cylinder, and one is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the left inner fender wall. They are two different wires, with two different sized ends, and each will only properly fit on one stud or the other. I do know for a fact that the stud-1 wire is the trailer 12v constant wire, and the brake controller is the one that connects to stud-2...   Hope this helps...
#191 of 195 Re: 2004 sierra 1500 trailer wiring [countryboy34] by etmegabyte Nov 09, 2009 (10:32 pm)
Replying to: countryboy34 (Sep 26, 2009 7:39 am) countryboy34, First off, the 7 pin plug at the back of the truck is standardized. It won't change from truck to truck. Looking into the plug from the back of the truck, the wiring should be as follows: (Also, on my 2003, my stock plastic cover over the jack itself also shows the wiring diagram as well - if you look closely, yours might as well)     You should note that in this picture, the wire "colors" are incorrect, but their positions are correct. This is standard 7 pin wiring. The Auxiliary pin in the middle is setup from the factory as the reverse light lead.   There are two wires under your hood that need to be hooked up. One of them powers the 12v port on the trailer connector, and the other is the power lead for the electric brake harness under the dash. I forget which wire is where, but one of them is taped on the firewall under the master cylinder and the other is taped between the underhood fuse panel and the inner fender. They're two different sized wires, with different sized ends. One of them connects to "stud 1" and the other connects to "stud 2". The ends are sized to properly fit on only one of the studs each, so you can't mess it up... Finally, be sure that there is a 40a fuse in the "stud 1" location, and a 30a fuse in the "stud 2" location.   for a 2004, you should be pretty much plug-and-play to connect the electric brake controller in the cab. But once it's hooked up, verify VERIFY VERIFY that all lights work properly on the trailer, and that the trailer brakes don't lock up when you turn on the headlights. Some Chevy/GMC harnesses under the dash are incorrect and lock up the trailer brakes when the headlights are turned on. If this happens to you, I hear it's just cutting and switching two wires around, but I don't have the details on that...   So, it's definitely not going to be a 5 minute install, but if you spend some time researching the points I've made here before you go hooking up wires, it can be a 30 minute install including testing...   Hope this helps..
#192 of 195 Sierra tow question, after tow upgrades. by cam77 Nov 11, 2009 (5:32 pm)
I have been trying to determine whether I can tow more than the 6700 lbs listed in my owners manual. I purchased a new '09 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab with the standard bed. It has the 5.3 LMG engine with flex fuel capability, it's coupled to a 4 speed auto, and the rear gear ratio is 3.42 with the locking rear differential. It was upgraded with the heavy duty towing package, the HD trans cooler, and has the Z71, and z82 packages. This will be used to tow a lightweight fifth wheel. I contacted GMC and they couldn't help. I have looked everywhere and can't determine whether the packages improved the payload or just added a safety factor to towing. Any ideas?   Thanks Replies to this message: chrismicrobu (Nov 26, 2009 7:57 am) canddmeyer (Nov 29, 2009 1:56 am)
#193 of 195 Re: Sierra tow question, after tow upgrades. [cam77] by chrismicrobu Nov 26, 2009 (7:57 am)
Replying to: cam77 (Nov 11, 2009 5:32 pm) My 2007 Sierra tows up to its rated load well, and may comment on its ability to haul beyond its rating when the truck has surpassed its warranty....Wish the truck was available with a manual trans. Equipped with the tow pack, trans cooler, snow plow prep(and I plow with the truck), 4 speed auto, 3.42 auto lock diff., 4.8L V8. I added an electric brake controller to this truck, and feel it's added a margin of safety.
#194 of 195 Re: Sierra tow question, after tow upgrades. [cam77] by canddmeyer Nov 29, 2009 (1:56 am)
Replying to: cam77 (Nov 11, 2009 5:32 pm) Try this link: http://www.gmc.com/sierra/1500/specsCapabilities.jsp   Here's the link for the Silverado: http://www.chevrolet.com/assets/pdf/owners/manuals/2009/2009_chevrolet_silverado- _owners.pdf
#195 of 195 Re: Towing a Trailer [obyone] by free12 Nov 29, 2009 (6:12 am)
Replying to: obyone (Feb 20, 2007 12:10 am) I pull a 3000lb 20 foot bass boat with my 2001 with a 5.3 4x4. It pulls very well, but, like everything else you have to stop it. Any vehicle will yank a trailer, but if you can not get it to stop you are in trouble. When I see a suggested towing capacity of a vehicle I always picture in my head the size of the trailer they are talking about. For example, a 7,000 boat might be a 25 foot cabin cruiser on a 3 axle trailer. Can you picture yourself driving a Grand Cherokee Jeep or Chevy Trailblazer pulling this? And then safely stoppinig it? Not me, I always go for the over-kill.   Another item that is of the utmost importance is the hitch and ball rating as well. Seen too many people bolt on a hitch to the bumper and then try and pull huge trailers.

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