Sign In Join 



Mazda 626 Starting Issues

31 messages,  Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 1:53 PM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan


Messages Page 4 of 4
1
2
3
4
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

#22 of 31
Re: 99 626 Starting problem [backy] by boarderdude
Dec 02, 2008 (6:05 am)
Reply

Replying to: backy (Dec 01, 2008 1:49 pm)

The battery is about 2 years old, but is not the problem. It cranks the car fine for about 10 minutes before wearing down. It charges fine.
Yes, it has started this issue since it was cold here in MN. I put the car in the my heated garage last night and charged the battery. It fired right up this morning. I'm now wondering if it is due to gas line freeze? I put some Isopropyl achohol into the tank to hopefully take care of that.
#23 of 31
by fishon5
Dec 02, 2008 (11:16 am)
Reply
Have you checked the fuel filter? Dump a can of SEAFOAM in the tank too.
#24 of 31
Re: [fishon5] by boarderdude
Dec 02, 2008 (5:56 pm)
Reply

Replying to: fishon5 (Dec 02, 2008 11:16 am)

Thanks,
Were is the fuel filter for this car? I know there is one on the fuel pump in the tank, but is there one under the hood?
#25 of 31
Mazda 626 2002 wont click, window wont roll up, NOTHING by sdlee24
Jul 04, 2009 (12:00 pm)
Reply
I pulled into Walmart and parked my car. Car sat there idle for approx. 1 minute and the A/C and radio started to go out. I hit the gas and it all came back on. Soon as I let off the gas the problem continued. I put the vehicle in reverse and drove off. Decided to drive it around for awhile to give it power, but even when I got stuck at the red light, I had to put it in Neutral and hold the brake while giving it gas the whole time. When I finally did park the vehicle and turned it off, it never came back on. We tried to jump start it but nothing would happen. At first the fan would still come on and the windows would still roll down, BUT, when one guy tried to jump start it some smoke came from his cables. Then, when the next person tried to jump it, it did nothing. Wouldn't even click! The keys were still in and all the sudden it beeped like it does if your door is open and your keys are just sitting there. But, it was a fast rapid beep unlike normal and then nothing. My car never would start again. Replaced the battery, nothing. It doesn't click, window is stuck down, fan wont come on, and gauges do not move at all. Someone please help me understand the problem!!! I'm a single mom of 2 and can't afford to take it to a dealership, I have to do it myself. Please, please, PLEASE help me!!!!
#27 of 31
troubleshooting electronic fuel injection questions by theshelbydude
Aug 22, 2009 (12:09 pm)
Reply
1990 mazda 626 2liter 4cylender 180000 miles automatic trany. car will not starte has spark and fuel fuel injecter positive and negative are both hot at the same time with injectors installed in head ground wires do not lite test light up with all injectors out of head and ground wires do not pulse on and off while turning over engine could this be the computer? what year computers are compatible?
#28 of 31
97 Mazda 626 won't start, battery good by tallshouse
Sep 08, 2009 (9:32 am)
Reply
Have a 97 Mazda, there was no sign of trouble. Ran into the store for 10 minutes then it would not start. Tried a jump and nothing. Get a click from the solenoid and thats it. Been told to try hitting the starter with a hammer and thats my next effort. Any ideas?: Hope someone can help!
#29 of 31
93 mazda 626 loses power then dies by kryptonite1976
Oct 12, 2009 (11:58 am)
Reply
Hi guys I am also new here and hopefully I can get sum good answeres on my car problems. So it is a 93 mazda 626 4cyl 5spd with 113,000. So a little history on my car. Last year I was having problems with it with the idle air control valve code which ended up being a ghost code, as there was nothing wrong with it. But anyways I bought a used one from ebay and didnt fix the problem, bought a new one from autozone and still didnt work. Bought a good working computer from a junk yard...no go. Then I finally replaced the distributor after much reading and found that the ign system was interanl. Then the car ran great till 2 weeks ago.
 So now to the new problem as this didnt happen when I had ign system problems. I was headed home one day and I noticed my wipers were going slow in the rain then I noticed my tach drop to 0 then back to normal, them my speedometer kept dropping to 0 them back up. Then I noticed all my gauges were dropping and I was loosing power. then the car died and I got to the side of the road. About 20 min later it started back up again and drove 25 miles back home. But while I was sitting there I had no power what so ever as if the alt took a crap and drained my battery. But like I said 20 min later I had all my power again as if nothing was wrong. I am getting a code 34 again for the idle air control valve. I ended up putting in my old computer and drove it 5 miles away and it all happened again lost all power as if my battery went dead. Car wouldnt turn over and no lights or anything again. I just went back out there to try to start it and it acts like my battery is low. So could this just be a simple alt problem, funny tho that waiting 20 min it started back up and had full power when it first happened. I would have thought that it like my other vehicals when the battery is drained from the alt going bad that your not going anywhere. So hopefuly I didnt make this to lengthy or complicated.
#30 of 31
Re: 95 mazda 626 fuel pump relay low side power not working [packerbacker1] by bt100
Nov 03, 2009 (1:40 pm)
Reply

Replying to: packerbacker1 (Oct 31, 2008 7:57 am)

I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda ( which of course they would say get a new tranny, but I had to know) and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open " ..was causing the engine light to stay on and then they only did a drive test and said that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission right now and was wondering if maybe just the filter is clogged or something simple. I am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone ????
#31 of 31
Re: 93 mazda 626 loses power then dies [kryptonite1976] by kryptonite1976
Nov 03, 2009 (1:53 pm)
Reply

Replying to: kryptonite1976 (Oct 12, 2009 11:58 am)

Well I installed a new alternator and that fixed the problem. It was just weird that the battery wasnt completly drained and I was able to start it after 20 min with no problems. But I drove it a few more times after this and broke down of coarse. And well the battery did eventually get drained at the end before I fixed it. Yup I know I sound dumb, just never had a battery hold juice after an alternator failure like this thing did.

Messages Page 4 of 4
1
2
3
4
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion
To POST a message, please Sign In.

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Please sign in.
Email Address:

Password:

Forgot Password?

Search Forums

Enter Keyword(s)

Advanced Search

Browse by Vehicle



View All Vehicles
Advertisement
Ask the Community
See What People Are Asking

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic


View All Topics

Today's Chats

Advertisement