Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Toyota Camry 2007 Toyota Camry Transmission Questions
851 messages, Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 2:21 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
Replying to: blackexv6 (Feb 25, 2007 11:26 am) Actually, Toyota told me to take a hike. In my discussions with Toyota Corporate I received absolutely the worst "customer service" that I've ever experienced. It was the Dealer that came through for me. I've purchased several vehicles from them and they continue to earn my business because they have always taken good care of me. |
|
|
Replying to: corton (Feb 25, 2007 12:27 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: corton (Feb 25, 2007 12:27 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: pat (Feb 26, 2007 6:23 am)
|
|
|
Replying to: micro99 (Feb 26, 2007 7:34 am) |
|
|
Replying to: pat (Feb 26, 2007 6:23 am) I have a 2007 V6 Camry with 3,000 miles. The Vehicle is four weeks old, and to date, I do not have this problem. My vehicle was manufactured in Japan, and I make it a point to warm up the vehicle before I drive it on cold mornings. I think the video listed on this site indicated that the problem with the flare on the 3 to 4 shift occured when the vehicle was driven cold. Maybe I have the problem, but because I warm-up the vehicle, something is occuring in the transmission that eliminates the problem, (fluid flow is better, or somthing like a seal is expanding). In any case, Toyota is in BIG TROUBLE with this issue! As a consumer, I purchase an extended warranty for 6 years or 100,000 miles, so I am not worried about a BIG REPAIR BILL, but on the other side of the issue, I DO NOT WANT a vehicle that is not dependable. If it turns out that my vehicle does have this transmission problem, I will allow Toyota to attempt to repair the vehicle in a professional manner, and I will work with my dealer to facilitate this repair, but after the third attempt at repairing this issue, (with no positive results), I will envoke the lemon law in my state. I paid a lot of money for a top of the line vehicle, and I will NOT live with a transmission problem over a three year period and make payments in the process. I cannot imagine that Toyota with all their engineers cannot trouble shoot an automatic transmission. A flare up in a 3 to 4 shift indicates that something in the transmission is releasing before something else is applying, thus the transmission is going into a neutral for a second. This can be a hydraulic pressure drop or a leaky seal on a hydraulic component. If there are Toyota corporate people on this site, I would like to encourage them to take the necessary action to develop a fix for this problem. If I have to use the lemon law, I will not purchase another Toyota vehicle, rather I will go with an Impala!------ Best regards. ---- Dwayne    
|
|
|
Replying to: pat (Feb 26, 2007 6:23 am)
|
|
|
Replying to: drjames (Feb 26, 2007 10:35 am) Dwayne, hope your car continues to be fine. |
|
|
This post is ONLY about the issue of engine flare during upshifts. So, sorry, but after thinking about it a bit I'm going to come out on the "wrong" side of this one, since automotive history supports Toyota/Lexus' position that the transaxle "flare" represents "normal" operation. Assuming, that is, it only happens before the ATF has warmed to operating temperature. Long ago Ford V8 engines with 4 barrel carburators had a thermostatic lockout to prevent the 2nd two, LARGER, barrels from operating until the engine had warmed to something close to normal operating temperature. 300HP at WOT but not until the engine has warmed to operating temperature. WHY..? To prevent premature failure of the engine. Did I notice, care..? Yes, No. So, either learn to let the ATF warm for a few minutes before you drive off or do not be so lead-footed on the throttle until the ATF has a chance to warm up and expand to FULL volume. Give me the design sheets and I would redesign the engine ECU firmware to detune the engine (prevent those two large carburator barrels from opening) until the ATF came up closer to full volume. Sort of like the acceleration level you get in a GS300 in "snow" mode.
|
|
|
Replying to: wwest (Feb 27, 2007 6:59 pm) As stated in the above posting, I do not have any problem letting the engine and transmission come up to normal operating temperature before putting a load on the drive train. I do this for a number of reasons. First we are working with Aluminum engines and steel cam and crankshafts. Each material has a different expansion rate.------ Second, the fluids, (especially the engine oil), needs to work its way throughout the entire block and into the components of the engine. On a "cold morning" this could be a problem! Cold engines make all kinds of noise when first started! ------ Third, the transmission also needs to have the fluid in a state that will allow it to move readily through the valve body, and to various components of the unit. ----- Fourth, I like to have a warm vehicle interior! On a cold morning, the driver has to warm up the vehicle in order to get the ice off the windows, so why not warm the vehicle up to normal operating temperature. How much fuel could you possibly use to accomplish this task? I do not buy the rational for not allowing the engine and transmission to reach normal operating temperature before driving off. But, that is just my opinion, and others are entitled to their oprinion, and that is what makes the United States GREAT! Here is a little experiment that the people with the flare issue can conduct with their vehicles. 1.) Start the vehicle as normal. 2.) Place the selector in the "manual shift mode" drive off as usual, and shift the transmission, (from one to six), manually. If you do not get the "flare" on the 3 to 4 shift, then you know that it must be a component in the valve body that is not reacting to cold / thick fluid thus causing the "neutral / flare". By shifting manually you are circumventing this component in the valve body. On the next morning, allow the vehicle to run until it reaches normal operating temperature before driving. (Drive the vehicle in the normal "D" position.) If the 3 to 4 shift does not have a "flare / neutral" you know that it is a cold / thick fluid issue! QUESTION: Does anyone living in a warm climate like Florida have this issue? Lets hear from people from the warm states! BEST REGARDS! ----- Dwayne
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans Toyota Camry 2007 Toyota Camry Transmission Questions
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Toyota Camry
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
