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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Nissan Quest Brakes
84 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 9:01 AM
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Replying to: warrant_ero (Mar 16, 2008 8:25 am)  could warp those Nissan upgraded Rotors in unless than 3k miles. Now i am using Frozen rotors with hawk pads on all corners, there is not a sign of vibration after 7k miles.
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Replying to: tjshan (Mar 19, 2008 10:45 am) I'm not giving Nissan a free pass. WE all know the brakes stink on these vans. They are only obligated to replace the brakes up to 12k miles. And despite what you think, minivans are especially hard on because of the weight and the typical stop and go driving. The 4200# I put in my last post does not account for the driver, passenger and cargo. My sister in law has a Grand Caravan that needed new rotors at 15k miles. They drive about 7k miles a year. Your Ram brakes are designed with towing in mind. My guess is the calipers and rotors are just a tad bit larger then the Quest. Personally, I go to a private mechanic for brakes. it's cheaper and I get to pick quality aftermarket rotors. Good luck with your brakes. I would continue to complain about the rattle in the door. The door won't fly open but it is annoying. |
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Replying to: garycox (Mar 07, 2007 7:04 am) New here at the forum. Found this old thread. I hope some of the key people are still around. I have a similar problem with my 1999 Nissan Quest. The front left wheel is locking up. I have replaced the pads, caliper, rubber hose, and in the process of replacing the master cylinder now. If I release the hydraulic pressure by cracking the line, the caliper will free up the rotor. I did it at the caliper bleeder, then up the line to the ABS distributing block, then at the line between the master cylinder and the ABS block. Releaseing hydraulic pressure at all those points, the locked wheel will free up. So, my conclusion is the master cylinder have a clog preventing the back flow, (right?). If I use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston back, it is very difficult but can be done, after struggling to remove the caliper off the rotor! If I just leave it overnight, the hydraulic pressure releases a bit and the next morning, I can feel the grip is not as tight. This happens with and without the engine on. The ABS warning light never came on at any time. You would think the ABS would have a fail mode that would not put a hold on the brakes. When the ABS fails, I thought it would be "removed" from the brake system. HELP !!! -bill
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Replying to: xroad (Mar 23, 2008 3:30 pm) Decided to go for the master cylinder, for a few reasons. 1/ It is cheaper than a new ABS unit. 2/ Less work than replacing the ABS, which I'll have to remove the air box and maybe the master cylinder to clear the way. 3/ Suspicion of the ABS is just a nagging question, not a direct observation of release wheel by releasing the hydraulic. $200 master cylinder from the dealer later, it is fixed! BTW, AutoZone gave me a wrong master cylinder. I installed it and one of the line will not seal. Turns out their part is different from the original. Got my $40 back and bit the bullet on a $200 Nissan part.
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OK guys, need some help and direction here , quickly please. Here is the story, we have a 2006 quest with 24K miles. We have constantly battled a vibration problem, mostly brakes. We have been through 3 sets of new rotors and two turn downs, as well as countless (5-6?) 4 wheel balances. most recently we brought the car in for brake vibration and steering vibration again last month, the dealer rebalenced again and found no vibration in the brakes, take the car, on the way home I find the vibrations back...keep in mind this is only at highway speed and comes and goes, slight but feelable. OK, bring car back, go for ride with tecky and sure enough he feels it, OK two days later they replace another set of rotors and rebalence...go back to pickup car and as soon as I turn on the highway I feel it...this time not in the wheel or brakes, but a whole car vibration, turn around and bring it back...it was by then 6pm and no techs around but they will get to it...OK here is where I need the help the dealer calls today (Fri) and says they rebalenced the wheels and went for another ride and do not find a steering or brake vibration (as expected) the service maneger says he took it out himnself and does not feel an appreciable vibration, but attributes what little one there is to the back wheels being "chopped" on the inside tread. He insist there is no reason to replace the tires, the chopping he says will not get any worse as long as we keep the tires inflated and balenced properly. By the way, the tires have been rotated according to the recommended schedule. here is my question, why did they chop, there is plenty of tread, i would estimate 30-40K miles left on the original tires. Why do i see so many on this list replacing their tires at 20 or 30K miles? The manager is not in Sat so i am going to wait untill Monday to pick it up, even though he says there is nothing more they can do!? It means holding on to the loaner for another day but If they balk I will pay the extra days rental if need be... Whats the treadwear warrenty on the oem tires (goodyear 16" not sure of size cause I dont have the car) is it viable to expect goodyear to step in here? It seems rediculiouse that tires would go bad at 24K miles, even though there is plenty of tread. Please help here, I know there have been brake issues with the quest, but can they be attributed to the tires? Tom 06 quest SE |
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Well with my experience, there are 2 issues on vibration. First is the vibration you get in the steering wheel WHILE DRIVING. The Goodyear tires were just garbage to begin with and didn't help the situation, and also wore out quickly. Mine was bald at about 29k. I have since replace them with Toyo Proxes tires and it seemed to have helped with reducing some of the vibration. If your tires are truly faulty according to the service manager, you can go to an authorized tire shop that sells that brand and have them replace it but you will have to pay for the pro rated price of the tire (depending how much tread you used). The vibration which you get WHILE BRAKING is due to some design problem with the brakes that no one can figure out. Everyone who has had there rotors machined, or replaced still gets the vibration. I myself have replaced them with the Frozen rotors and it still get some vibration here and there. The strange thing is if the rotors were truly warped, then you should feel the vibration each and every time. With my vehicle, I sometimes feel it and sometimes don't, so this leads me to believe it's not the rotors and maybe something else.I have pretty much given up on getting the dealer to fix anything and just live with the fact that there are some magical design flaw with the suspension/brake system. It's not because the dealer is not willing to help, but it's just that there is no fix for it.
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Replying to: cirruss (Apr 18, 2008 9:38 pm) Thanks for the input, and I agree with the brake situation...on mine it seems consistent, when the rotors warp i can usually feel it. Funny because i nor my wife drive hard, and we have even become a bit gunshy while braking to insure we leave ourselves more then enough room to stop...but they seem to keep warping. If I have to replace a set my self I will definately go with high tech aftermarket like the frozens. I do not understand what the deal is with the tires though..Mine have almost no treadwear, are surely not worn at 24K miles but now have a inside tread chop? I also find it odd some folks have had such terrible wear and others not...driving habits can't be that much different. Anyway...I guess I will see what nissen says, i am going to ask the service manager for a way to get in touch with nissan...does anyone here have any insite how to go about doing that? |
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My 2004 Quest SE will crank but not start. This will not happen every time, but is getting to be most of time. Happens in both hot, cold, wet, dry weather. Dealer replaced fuel pump & immobilizer amplifier antenna (receives signal from coded keys) but still not fixed. So far I can get van started if turn key on (not cranking) for 2 seconds, off for 5 seconds & repeat three times - then the van will usually start. Any ideas? Nissan has no clue. |
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Replying to: xroad (Apr 01, 2008 4:13 pm) |
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I've got 61k on my 04 Quest SE. Changed the rear pads at 45k and the front pads now need changing. At 45k miles, we did have some minor warping/surging from the rear rotors, but, once they turned them and put on the new rear pads, all has been ok. Also, I think I remember something about the SE having the system that directs the braking load to the rear if it detects weight in the back (?). Having three kids in the back most always might explain why my rear pads wore out first and the fronts are just now needing replacing. We did, at around 10k miles have the TSB performed for the front brake pads. Seems there is some issue with the calipers not fully releasing and the pads/roter scrubbing. Automotive oddities like this is exactly why I always return to the dealer for maintenance issues. I don't remember the TSB number, but, I'm sure you can find it via Google or somewhere. Mark
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