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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe Towing Questions

39 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 4:59 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: bigload (May 25, 2009 6:19 pm) I think you would have insurace and liability issues if you exceed the towing limits even with those mods. tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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Replying to: bigload (May 25, 2009 6:19 pm) Twenty five (ish) years ago when I had a large trailer and was concerned about this myself, if I remember correctly in a GMC p/u I had to go to a 3/4 ton and the main difference was the rear axle strength, the size of the brakes all around, the rear spring #leafs/strength, the wheelrim strength and number of lugnuts, and the tire size and rating. I know I also ordered it w/transmission cooler, but I don't think that was 'required' for the GVW. I have no idea what the current models differences would be, but it should be easy enough to research for new sales. |
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I have a 2004 Tahoe that suffer miserably when hooked up to my 31ft travel trailer. Granted the trailer is at the Tahoes limits but I have the sway and weight distrubution hitch. It does not like the hills and still sways. I credit this to the 5.3 and coil springs in the rear. I can deal with it being under powered. My question is if there is any type of suspension upgrades to make it handle better? For now I have gone back to towing the trailer with my 97 2500 with the vortec 454. Any Ideas?
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Replying to: yank77 (Aug 02, 2009 6:20 am) |
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Replying to: bigload (May 25, 2009 6:19 pm) |
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Used to tow an open trailer weighing 4k with my 99 K2500 and 5,7...no problems at all. Then bought an enclosed Vnose trailer and now pull 7200 pounds. and it downshifts at any incline so speedup going down to face the next incline to help. Got tired of this so bought a 2003 K2500 with the 8.1 motor which will pull a house but mileage doesn't suffer badly as it has a 3.73 gear VS my old 4.10 gear. And I don't use any stabilizers or sway controls, just put it on the 2 5/8" ball and go! My old 99 K2500 has a rear track 4" narrower than the front so I have 2" spacer/adapters on the rear for a wider stance and stability which helped. BTW, my 99 K2500 is now for sale, black/gray, 121k, SLT for $7500 and in NC. |
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Question - does anyone have any experience (gas mileage, performance, issues) towing approx 9K lbs - 10K lbs with a: 1) 2007 3/4 Suburban (6.0L, 4 speed trans) with 4.1 rear end? 2) 2009 3/4 Suburban (6.0L, 6 speed trans) with 3.73 rear end? I know everyone will say to go to a P/U but not an option ... wondering if one direction is better than another ... Any thoughts or experience appreciated. |
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe, which apparently has a wiring harness problem. I have two trailers, both with new wiring harnesses and light assemblies. ALL Tahoe lights work fine without a trailer connected. Trailers have good grounds. The Tahoe plug at the back tests “good” on all connections UNTIL the trailer is plugged in. Then the lights go crazy. The Tahoe ground then tests “hot” Tahoe lights: none on trailer Brakes lights: none on trailer Left Directional: good on trailer and Tahoe Right Directional: none on trailer; Tahoe works, but both tail lights come on Brake & left directional: Trailer has left directional; no brakes; Tahoe ok Brake & right directional: Trailer has LEFT directional; no brakes; Tahoe ok Lights & left directional: Trailer has left directional; no tail lights; Tahoe ok Lights & right directional: Trailer has no lights; Tahoe has tail lights, but right directional stays on and does not blink Both trailers have the same performance. The Tahoe wiring has never been damaged or under water, and has worked fine for five years. Can it be the right tail light module on the Tahoe? Wiring harness?
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Replying to: rwag1945 (Sep 05, 2009 9:25 am) First, I would eliminate any trailer issues (mis-wiring, bulbs, or grounds) as possibly being the problem. To do this, you need to have a separate source of power to manually test it out (don't use the Tahoe trailer connector). You can use either a standalong battery, or build yourself a test power source with a cigarette lighter plug, some wire, and a couple alligator clips. Powering from the cigarette lighter, connect to the different wires of the trailer and verify that each one is working exactly as it is supposed to. Verify that the correct filament of the bulbs (if you have the assemblies which use dual filaments) are lighting. The bright filament when a brake/turn is powered, the dim filament when the running lights are on. Verify also that you don't have any bulbs where the filaments are broken and crossed over onto the other filament. This will also verify that you ground back to the bulbs is good as well. Only after you are absolutely certain that the trailer is wired and working correctly, do I plug into the back trailer connector. It is much easier to troubleshoot trailer wiring issues this way. In the first steps you eliminate the truck from being the source of any problems, until you absolutely are sure the trailer is correct. This then eliminates the trailer from being the source of the problem when you eventually connect them together...proving that you have a tahoe problem or not. |
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I found out that this truck has a brake stoplight connection for attaching my trailer brake control, but is there somewhere to hook up the brake wire? My truck does have the blue and red wires at the light hook up. Any ideas? Thanks |
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