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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe Towing Questions

38 messages,  Last post on Sep 05, 2009 at 10:21 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe Limited/Z71, Towing, SUV


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#29 of 38
Increasing Towing Capacity of Suburban by bigload
May 25, 2009 (6:19 pm)
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Is there anyway aftermarket to increase the towing capacity of at 2005 Suburban 1500? I think it tows roughly 6800#, I just bought a 27' Searay that has a dry weight of 5800#, add roughly 1100# for the trailer and then another 1500# for fuel, passengers, etc., and I'm at 8400#. Trailer is a tandem axle with brakes. Wondering if I can add something to cool the transmission, add rear stabilizers or a different auto-leveling suspension? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
#30 of 38
Re: Increasing Towing Capacity of Suburban [bigload] by tidester HOST
May 25, 2009 (8:05 pm)
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Replying to: bigload (May 25, 2009 6:19 pm)

Wondering if I can add something to cool the transmission, add rear stabilizers or a different auto-leveling suspension?
 
I think you would have insurace and liability issues if you exceed the towing limits even with those mods.
 
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
#31 of 38
Re: Increasing Towing Capacity of Suburban [bigload] by kiawah
May 26, 2009 (3:15 am)
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Replying to: bigload (May 25, 2009 6:19 pm)

I'd suggest looking at the specs for a new vehicle order, and compare what changes (in a new vehicle) to get up to the 8400+ that you need. Use the new vehicle, because that's where you can find the written differences.
 
Twenty five (ish) years ago when I had a large trailer and was concerned about this myself, if I remember correctly in a GMC p/u I had to go to a 3/4 ton and the main difference was the rear axle strength, the size of the brakes all around, the rear spring #leafs/strength, the wheelrim strength and number of lugnuts, and the tire size and rating.
 
I know I also ordered it w/transmission cooler, but I don't think that was 'required' for the GVW.
 
I have no idea what the current models differences would be, but it should be easy enough to research for new sales.
#32 of 38
Tahoe Towing by yank77
Aug 02, 2009 (6:20 am)
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I have a 2004 Tahoe that suffer miserably when hooked up to my 31ft travel trailer. Granted the trailer is at the Tahoes limits but I have the sway and weight distrubution hitch. It does not like the hills and still sways. I credit this to the 5.3 and coil springs in the rear. I can deal with it being under powered. My question is if there is any type of suspension upgrades to make it handle better? For now I have gone back to towing the trailer with my 97 2500 with the vortec 454. Any Ideas?
#33 of 38
Re: Tahoe Towing [yank77] by kiawah
Aug 02, 2009 (6:27 am)
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Replying to: yank77 (Aug 02, 2009 6:20 am)

Don't overlook the tires, which could be a brand with a lot of sidewall flex. The short wheelbase doesn't help either.
#34 of 38
Re: Increasing Towing Capacity of Suburban [bigload] by zboater
Aug 03, 2009 (12:10 pm)
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Replying to: bigload (May 25, 2009 6:19 pm)

bigload - How has your Suburban done with this? I have a 2008 LTZ (3.78 rear) with the 5.3L V8 and heavy duty trailer pkg. Looking to tow a similar boat/load and wondering if upgrading to a 2500 is going to be required and how your experience has been. Do you do mostly local tow - or long (>1K mile) drives? Thoughts welcome.
#35 of 38
Was borderline so upgraded... by mcgyver
Aug 19, 2009 (4:16 pm)
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Used to tow an open trailer weighing 4k with my 99 K2500 and 5,7...no problems at all. Then bought an enclosed Vnose trailer and now pull 7200 pounds. and it downshifts at any incline so speedup going down to face the next incline to help.
 
Got tired of this so bought a 2003 K2500 with the 8.1 motor which will pull a house
but mileage doesn't suffer badly as it has a 3.73 gear VS my old 4.10 gear. And I don't use any stabilizers or sway controls, just put it on the 2 5/8" ball and go!
My old 99 K2500 has a rear track 4" narrower than the front so I have 2" spacer/adapters on the rear for a wider stance and stability which helped. BTW, my 99 K2500 is now for sale, black/gray, 121k, SLT for $7500 and in NC.
#36 of 38
'07 vs '09 Suburban 2500 (3/4 Ton)? by zboater
Aug 27, 2009 (7:52 am)
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Question - does anyone have any experience (gas mileage, performance, issues) towing approx 9K lbs - 10K lbs with a:
 
1) 2007 3/4 Suburban (6.0L, 4 speed trans) with 4.1 rear end?
 
2) 2009 3/4 Suburban (6.0L, 6 speed trans) with 3.73 rear end?
 
I know everyone will say to go to a P/U but not an option ... wondering if one direction is better than another ...
 
Any thoughts or experience appreciated.
#37 of 38
2004 Tahoe Trailer Wiring Problems by rwag1945
Sep 05, 2009 (9:25 am)
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I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe, which apparently has a wiring harness problem.
I have two trailers, both with new wiring harnesses and light assemblies.
 
ALL Tahoe lights work fine without a trailer connected.
Trailers have good grounds.
 
The Tahoe plug at the back tests “good” on all connections UNTIL the trailer is plugged in. Then the lights go crazy.
The Tahoe ground then tests “hot”
Tahoe lights: none on trailer
Brakes lights: none on trailer
Left Directional: good on trailer and Tahoe
Right Directional: none on trailer; Tahoe works, but both tail lights come on
Brake & left directional: Trailer has left directional; no brakes; Tahoe ok
Brake & right directional: Trailer has LEFT directional; no brakes; Tahoe ok
Lights & left directional: Trailer has left directional; no tail lights; Tahoe ok
Lights & right directional: Trailer has no lights; Tahoe has tail lights, but right directional stays on and does not blink
 
Both trailers have the same performance.
The Tahoe wiring has never been damaged or under water, and has worked fine for five years.
Can it be the right tail light module on the Tahoe? Wiring harness?
#38 of 38
Re: 2004 Tahoe Trailer Wiring Problems [rwag1945] by kiawah
Sep 05, 2009 (10:21 am)
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Replying to: rwag1945 (Sep 05, 2009 9:25 am)

You have too many variables to solve, the way you are testing.
 
First, I would eliminate any trailer issues (mis-wiring, bulbs, or grounds) as possibly being the problem. To do this, you need to have a separate source of power to manually test it out (don't use the Tahoe trailer connector). You can use either a standalong battery, or build yourself a test power source with a cigarette lighter plug, some wire, and a couple alligator clips.
 
Powering from the cigarette lighter, connect to the different wires of the trailer and verify that each one is working exactly as it is supposed to. Verify that the correct filament of the bulbs (if you have the assemblies which use dual filaments) are lighting. The bright filament when a brake/turn is powered, the dim filament when the running lights are on. Verify also that you don't have any bulbs where the filaments are broken and crossed over onto the other filament. This will also verify that you ground back to the bulbs is good as well. Only after you are absolutely certain that the trailer is wired and working correctly, do I plug into the back trailer connector.
 
It is much easier to troubleshoot trailer wiring issues this way. In the first steps you eliminate the truck from being the source of any problems, until you absolutely are sure the trailer is correct. This then eliminates the trailer from being the source of the problem when you eventually connect them together...proving that you have a tahoe problem or not.

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