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Saturn S-Series Starting Problems

134 messages,  Last post on Mar 23, 2013 at 7:51 PM

You are in the Saturn S-Series Forum.

What is this discussion about? Saturn S-Series, Sedan

Messages Page 10 of 14

#88 of 134 Re: My 2002 SL Saturn [ymmot11] by sdsun

Aug 28, 2009 (6:12 pm)

Replying to: ymmot11 (Jun 18, 2009 7:44 am)
I changed the starter (finally got a new one-still had original one---2001 model) and changed the ignition switch.
 
So far, so good. My car has not abandoned me. It came out to about $245.00 through my wonderful mechanic. Saturn wanted close to $800.00 for the repairs.
 
Through Saturn there is a bulletin on this problem. What happens is that there is a problem with the solenoid in the ignition switch that get worn with time and use.

#89 of 134 2000 saturn sc ignition switch by mfallon

Sep 27, 2009 (9:38 am)

I have got to ignition switch wire harness I can take off harness but how do I get switch out do I take whole assy or just back part of switch I have a no start electrical situation key is working lights come on but no start:::

#90 of 134 Re: shut off whiledriving [jackelope3] by patientpat

Oct 12, 2009 (10:44 am)

Replying to: jackelope3 (Dec 16, 2008 6:52 am)
Did you ever resolve the shut off while driving problem for your 95 SL Saturn? I have the same problem. Thanks

#91 of 134 Re: shut off whiledriving [strokeoluck2] by patientpat

Oct 12, 2009 (10:49 am)

Replying to: strokeoluck2 (Dec 28, 2008 9:26 pm)
Did you ever resolve the shut off while driving problem you had with your 99 Saturn. I have the same problem. Thanks

#92 of 134 problem by dothedew572

Nov 12, 2009 (7:24 pm)

Replying to: ymmot11 (Jun 18, 2009 7:44 am)
Hi all. I am at my wits ends with a problem with my saturn. i have owned it for 4 mths now and this problem i have been having has been about 3 mths now. let me start with my symptoms...
i have RKE and i lock the door, come back to the car and the RKE isnt wroking. The stereo has no power, no interior lights, no real power for extras. but the car tries to start. i can get it started but it stalls shortly after and runs with a bad shake. im gathering that the "no power" is affecting the fuel pump too. throughout the day i get this several times and i can tell when its going to start happening because i start getting shocks whenever i get outta the car. which gets stronger and more annoying throughout the day. if i push around on the fuse panel, i can usually get all the symptoms to go away and the car starts running like nothing ever happened. i have changed the battery, starter, disassembled the fuse panel and did not see any problems. my hubby and i have spent many hrs going trough wiring looking for any open wires and still the problem persist.
any ideas would greatly be appriciated!!
thx in advance
Dothedew

#93 of 134 Starting Problem with 99 sc by klherm6

Jan 11, 2010 (6:45 am)

I have a 99 sc 1.9 doc that has a ongoing starting problem or multiple problems. It use to start just fine in the morning. After shutting it off it would not restart without waiting 5 - 10 min or if I gave it a shot of starting fluid it would start. This was more of a pain in the *** but dealt with it for a while.
Then the idle was running high, especially when in drive and started having stalling problems. Reading through the forums there are many answers leading to the ECTS and dirty EGR valve.
So I purchased the sensor and connector from the dealership. Installed and soldered the connections, cleaned the egr valve which was dirty. I also, cleaned the throttle body while the car was running with valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner. Car started and ran well. Filled the tank with 93 gas and a bottle of Chevron fuel system cleaner.
Car ran great for 2 days. Then we had a cold night (28 is cold for florida) I went to start the car in the morning and it barely turned over, did get it started with jumper cables. Put in a new battery, couldn't get it started. I checked for spark - none.
Again, reading the forums I picked up a Crankshaft Position Sensor and installed it.
Cleaned the battery cable connections at the block and fender, also the positive connection at the fuse panel on the fender. Change the oil and filter to 5w30, I was running 20w50. replaced the spark plugs with autolite plugs.
I removed the spark plugs and connected the plug wires to them and rested the tips on the exhaust manifold. Getting spark on all cylinders.
Looking down in the cylinders with a flash light I could see all the piston tops are wet and all the spark plug tips are wet.
There is a popping sound coming through the intake tube every 3 -4sec while cranking.
Someone recommended I switch the new autolite plugs for ngk plugs.
I did and no change.
There is less visible spark with the ngk compared to the autolite plugs.
When cranking the engine the starter seems to bind for a second then continue.
We removed all the plugs again ( they were wet) and cranked the engine, trying to dry out the cylinders. no change.
Removed the hose that runs from the air cleaner to the throttle body. no change
while someone turn the key I gave it blast of starting fluid in the throttle body.
It shot a flame back out at me. (I will not try that again)
Here is the latest scan info
P0107 MAP/BARO circuit low input
P0336 CKP A CKT range/perf
DTC that caused freeze frame P0336
Throttle Position 0.0%
Engine rpm 132 rpm
Load value 0.0%
Map Sensor 99 kpa
Coolant temp 46 f
Long term fuel trim 1 0.0%
short term fuel trim 3 50%
long term fuel trim 3 -38.3%
Please Help!!
Thank You

#94 of 134 SL-1 WON'T CRANK OVER by rbc1300

Feb 06, 2010 (4:45 pm)

Daughter is a single mother, no money and just moved home to get back on her feet. Blew the engine on her old Neon and was beyond fixing. We were totally shocked to see how much cars with 160,000+ miles were going for. We found this '99 SL1, 116K miles, one owner car that was really clean and within our limited price range. Drove it around in a snowstorm, seemed like a really nice car, bought it, drove it home and the right front wheel bearing howled beyond belief. Cost us $350 to fix it. The first time she went to go somewhere, it wouldn't crank at all. It has a Loctronics ignition immobilizer that I hate but ruled out because it will start with a jump. I came home, it started right up. Worked fine for about 2 weeks and then left her stranded at the doctors office with her 2-year old. Wouldn't crank. Popped the clutch, started right up. Wouldn't crank the next day. Took out battery, had it tested and failed. Bought new battery, good for about 2 or 3 weeks, then won't crank. Had starter, battery and alternator tested in car, tests good. Good for a few days. This time, wouldn't jump. Parked it until I can look at it tomorrow but would try to start it every once in a while and this afternoon, it cranked right over and started 6 times in a row. She has no confidence at all in taking the car anywhere and we are all extremely frustrated. There are some good ideas posted here about about ignition switches, starter flat spots, etc. Sometimes, the key / switch does seem a little weird. I am in New England, working outside and can't even see the starter from the top. Any suggestions about the most logical place to start troubleshooting, especially now that it is starting like a normal car?

#95 of 134 Re: SL-1 WON'T CRANK OVER [rbc1300] by rbc1300

Feb 19, 2010 (3:17 pm)

Replying to: rbc1300 (Feb 06, 2010 4:45 pm)
Now the latest. I found that with the key held to start, slamming the clutch pedal against the floorboards seem to jar the solenoid into action. This worked for about a week. Then it died on her again. Out of frustration, we took it to a garage near my work. They confirmed that it was a starter, and although I knew that $302.00 installed for troubleshooting and replacement was high, I went for it. Worked for about a week, now it started with the old tricks again. Except, now, sometimes you have to wiggle the steering column or pull back on the bright switch to get the engine and panel gage lights on. And in a seemingly unrelated matter, it appears that the drivers side wiper shaft doesn't work and turn with little or no resistance (loose or broken linkage) and the domelight fuse blew. A new fuse seems to be okay.
  The sad part is that I really want to like this car but it is making it very difficult.
Any ideas - multifunction switch, ignition switch?

#96 of 134 Re: SL-1 WON'T CRANK OVER [rbc1300] by sdsun

Feb 19, 2010 (4:13 pm)

Replying to: rbc1300 (Feb 19, 2010 3:17 pm)
You didnt indicate what year Saturn you have. I have a 2001 Saturn SL (manual tranny) with 177,000 miles on it.
 
This is just what I did with my car as an example. It may be time to replace the ignition solenoid. I had problems starting my saturn and replaced the solenoid and (just because) put in a new starter, my car now starts! You might also want to check your crankcase position sensor, those go bad with use. Once you get these things fixed you will enjoy a wonderful car with great gas mileage and cheap on insurance.

#97 of 134 Re: Starting Problems [shorty4ft9] by rbillieuxsr

Apr 07, 2010 (7:46 pm)

Replying to: shorty4ft9 (Jul 15, 2007 11:27 am)
I have ultimate solution but you would not like it. Try adding fuel injector cleaner and then cleaning EGR then throttle body of carbon -new pvc valve

Messages Page 10 of 14

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