Last post on Mar 23, 2013 at 7:51 PM
You are in the Saturn S-Series
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Saturn S-Series, Sedan
#84 of 134 Re: My 2002 SL Saturn [ymmot11]
Jun 18, 2009 (11:49 am)
I tested my starter to make sure it wasnt the starter, checked all my fuses. Finally then I changed my ignition. The key wears out the ignition and creates a short. Did you ever notice that your key would get hot. So when it did get hot, it wouldn't start? That is what happened to me.
its a cheap part but a pain to replace.
I hope this helps!
#85 of 134 94 Saturn overheated and won't start
Jun 18, 2009 (4:22 pm)
I took our 94 saturn in for it's smog check this morning and as soon as he was finished running it on the dyno it overheated and blew water out of the coolant bottle cap. The car was running at the time and he backed it out of the shop right away and then shut if off. We finished the paper work and when we went to start the car there was nothing. The idiot lights come on but not the stater wounldn't turn not even a click. The guy at the repair shop says we needed to let it cool down and it should start. My wife said this happened a couple of times before and it started after it cools down. Her daughters have Saturn and it has happened to them also. Well it has been 5 hours since this happened and still nothing from the starter. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Not sure if it's actually the starter or something else.
#86 of 134 1997 Saturn SL1 1.9 engine
Jun 19, 2009 (6:20 am)
Re problum 1997 Saturn, after a lot of grief it turned out to be a heat sensor and cost me $14.95, worth checking. Hope this works for you.
#87 of 134 Re: 2001 SL manual [sdsun]
Aug 28, 2009 (6:31 am)
I have exactly the fault on our Saturn 2000 SL1 my manual gave me some good tips to help find the problem. There are four basic parts the 30 Amp fuse under the bonnet, the key, the switch behind the key on the columb, the soleniod and starter.
Run a wire (15 amp capacity) from the "S" terminal on the soleniod up to the battery terminals (do not connect).
Run the car till fault appears ie starter does not turn. Put a meter from the wire to the ground battery terminal (black). (If you do not have a meter connect 12V bulb) Turn the ignition switch to start if the meter reads or the bulb lights power is getting to the soleniod. If this is happening (on my car it did not) then use the wire (with the ignition switch turned on) , holding it with pliers hold it on to battery positive terminal (make one good contact or it will spark quite well). If the starter motor does not turn have it checked, if engine starts, you have reduced the fault to, ignition key, ignition switch or fuse. Use meter with power off to check on resistance reading in thoes area's.
Mine the engine started and now I am chasing the fault in thoes curcuits, when I find it I will let you know.
#88 of 134 Re: My 2002 SL Saturn [ymmot11]
Aug 28, 2009 (6:12 pm)
I changed the starter (finally got a new one-still had original one---2001 model) and changed the ignition switch.
So far, so good. My car has not abandoned me. It came out to about $245.00 through my wonderful mechanic. Saturn wanted close to $800.00 for the repairs.
Through Saturn there is a bulletin on this problem. What happens is that there is a problem with the solenoid in the ignition switch that get worn with time and use.
#89 of 134 2000 saturn sc ignition switch
Sep 27, 2009 (9:38 am)
I have got to ignition switch wire harness I can take off harness but how do I get switch out do I take whole assy or just back part of switch I have a no start electrical situation key is working lights come on but no start:::
#90 of 134 Re: shut off whiledriving [jackelope3]
Oct 12, 2009 (10:44 am)
Did you ever resolve the shut off while driving problem for your 95 SL Saturn? I have the same problem. Thanks
#91 of 134 Re: shut off whiledriving [strokeoluck2]
Oct 12, 2009 (10:49 am)
Did you ever resolve the shut off while driving problem you had with your 99 Saturn. I have the same problem. Thanks
Nov 12, 2009 (7:24 pm)
Hi all. I am at my wits ends with a problem with my saturn. i have owned it for 4 mths now and this problem i have been having has been about 3 mths now. let me start with my symptoms...
i have RKE and i lock the door, come back to the car and the RKE isnt wroking. The stereo has no power, no interior lights, no real power for extras. but the car tries to start. i can get it started but it stalls shortly after and runs with a bad shake. im gathering that the "no power" is affecting the fuel pump too. throughout the day i get this several times and i can tell when its going to start happening because i start getting shocks whenever i get outta the car. which gets stronger and more annoying throughout the day. if i push around on the fuse panel, i can usually get all the symptoms to go away and the car starts running like nothing ever happened. i have changed the battery, starter, disassembled the fuse panel and did not see any problems. my hubby and i have spent many hrs going trough wiring looking for any open wires and still the problem persist.
any ideas would greatly be appriciated!!
thx in advance
#93 of 134 Starting Problem with 99 sc
Jan 11, 2010 (6:45 am)
I have a 99 sc 1.9 doc that has a ongoing starting problem or multiple problems. It use to start just fine in the morning. After shutting it off it would not restart without waiting 5 - 10 min or if I gave it a shot of starting fluid it would start. This was more of a pain in the *** but dealt with it for a while.
Then the idle was running high, especially when in drive and started having stalling problems. Reading through the forums there are many answers leading to the ECTS and dirty EGR valve.
So I purchased the sensor and connector from the dealership. Installed and soldered the connections, cleaned the egr valve which was dirty. I also, cleaned the throttle body while the car was running with valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner. Car started and ran well. Filled the tank with 93 gas and a bottle of Chevron fuel system cleaner.
Car ran great for 2 days. Then we had a cold night (28 is cold for florida) I went to start the car in the morning and it barely turned over, did get it started with jumper cables. Put in a new battery, couldn't get it started. I checked for spark - none.
Again, reading the forums I picked up a Crankshaft Position Sensor and installed it.
Cleaned the battery cable connections at the block and fender, also the positive connection at the fuse panel on the fender. Change the oil and filter to 5w30, I was running 20w50. replaced the spark plugs with autolite plugs.
I removed the spark plugs and connected the plug wires to them and rested the tips on the exhaust manifold. Getting spark on all cylinders.
Looking down in the cylinders with a flash light I could see all the piston tops are wet and all the spark plug tips are wet.
There is a popping sound coming through the intake tube every 3 -4sec while cranking.
Someone recommended I switch the new autolite plugs for ngk plugs.
I did and no change.
There is less visible spark with the ngk compared to the autolite plugs.
When cranking the engine the starter seems to bind for a second then continue.
We removed all the plugs again ( they were wet) and cranked the engine, trying to dry out the cylinders. no change.
Removed the hose that runs from the air cleaner to the throttle body. no change
while someone turn the key I gave it blast of starting fluid in the throttle body.
It shot a flame back out at me. (I will not try that again)
Here is the latest scan info
P0107 MAP/BARO circuit low input
P0336 CKP A CKT range/perf
DTC that caused freeze frame P0336
Throttle Position 0.0%
Engine rpm 132 rpm
Load value 0.0%
Map Sensor 99 kpa
Coolant temp 46 f
Long term fuel trim 1 0.0%
short term fuel trim 3 50%
long term fuel trim 3 -38.3%