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Sedans Saturn S-Series Saturn S-Series Starting Problems
92 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 6:24 PM
You are in the Saturn S-Series Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: racermouse (Feb 08, 2008 1:12 am)
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Replying to: clifford59 (Mar 22, 2008 3:18 pm) 
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Replying to: clifford59 (Mar 22, 2008 3:18 pm) I just happened by the library today and found one of those huge Motor Repair Manuals ( like 5 inches thick) for GM 99-01. There was an 8 part section on Engine Crank- No Start. problem= intermittent start connect to OBD and check malfunction history check circuit 402. ALSO, it said that when you turn the key to ON (not to start) the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds (every time) This I knew and when I go to start mine I have the radio off so I can listen for it- weirdly though, sometimes mine would start without hearing the FP make a sound. I would wait for the stupid chime to stop (5 dings) and then it would start most times. I am still looking for a way to turn off the annoying chime, but don't pull the chime fuse, it kills the whole ignition sysytem. So, I had surmised I had a problem with the fuel pump and/or filter, and I was going to take the car into the dealer and see if they can pull up the 'malfunction history' and tell me what the 402 thing is, along with checking fuel pump and fuel pressure. On the way home, as I got off the freeway and came to a stoplight, it now developed the infamous CHUGGLE at idle. Jeez, you had to keep the thing at 2500 RPM to keep it from stalling. Since then I went out to the garage twice and started it, but it needs to rev at least 2500 rpm to keep from stalling. That's where I am now. |
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| I don't know what all years this covers, mostly later 90's (mine is '99) but check yours- there are 2 fuseboxes. One is under the hood, other is on PASSENGER Side of center dash console (radio, A/C) it is a plastic door with velcro. put your finger in the hole and pull it off. on the backside of the door is a chart with all the locations of the fuses and relays. swap the FP relay with the one next to it (HVAC blower). When you turn the key to on you will hear it click. Also, there is an FP fuse (should be 10 red) under the Rear Window Defogger relay. Pull off the defogger relay, then pull the FP fuse and check it. Sometimes when mine won't start, pulling the FP fuse and then reinserting it makes it start (weird huh?) CAUTION- when you pull the FP fuse, it will cause your radio to lose all presets and turn your clock back to 12:00. | |
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I've just gotten out of surgery on the knee, so there won't be any car repairing again soon. I do have an update on the chuggle issue since my last post. I got a can of CRC carburetor cleaner (use some good stuff, not a cheapie so it can blast) and removed the throttle body and sprayed it out and the idle air sensor screw. Then I re-removed the EGR and sprayed it out also. Upon removal of the EGR , I found a little chunk of carbon deposit stuck in its needle valve, which turns out was the culprit. I had previously cleaned out the EGR with a toothbrush and this must have dislodged the chunk. Even though I am still chasing the starting problem, since cleaning out the throttle body the car runs like it has a new engine. and the weirdness continues.... |
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The next thing I was going to try was to replace the CKP (CPS) Crank Position Sensor, but I didn't want to start replacing part by part until I found the problem. So I went to a shop and had them do a diagnostic and OBD scan. Code 336- CKP sensor fault code signal intermittent. So I went to AutoZone and picked up one SU-185, only $13.99. This repair will be around $200 if you have a shop do it. Now I am 2 weeks out of knee surgery with a knee immobilzer on, and I crawled under that car and did it in 2 hours, WITHOUT removing the starter. NOTE: The bolt that holds it into the engine block was so loose I unscrewed it with my fingers. This most likely contributed to the failure of the CKP. If anyone out there wants to do this themself and need more info email me I can tell you how I did it w/o removing starter. Also, I got great info from a Youtube video. There is a guy that has over 120 Youtube vids on saturn repairs of all types, and he is very good. my email : racermouse  hotmail.com repair vids> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?p=r&user=richpin06a&page=1 |
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL sedan. Frequently, I'll take a short drive to the store, the bank, etc. park, turn the car off, come back 15 minutes later, turn the key and nothing happens. The battery is fine, the radio runs, all lights turn on, door locks function, but the car will not turn over. Absolutely nothing happens. I have noticed that it seems to be related to the temperature. It only seems to happen on warm days. I've taken it in to be looked at by both the dealer and a private mechanic. They all seem to think it's the starter, but I don't agree. The car starts just fine most of the time. Anyone else have this experience or have any insight?
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Replying to: krisbj22 (May 24, 2008 1:35 pm) Good luck!! |
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Help me please! My girlfriend bought a 95 sl1 and It ran fine for a while exept for a wierd idle when she stops. I checked the vaccume lines and there all fine. Just recently she was having trouble tring to start it. She has to push the gas pedal to the floor to get the car to start. When she goes into reverse or forward the car stalls and frequently stalls while she drives it. I told her to turn the key to the run position and wait 10 seconds then start it ,and that only works sometimes.By the way the car does not have a check engine light on if that helps any. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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