Last post on Mar 23, 2013 at 6:51 PM
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Saturn S-Series, Sedan
#32 of 134 99 Saturn wont start in extreme cold
Feb 29, 2008 (5:56 am)
Hi, my daughter has a 1999 Saturn, which only has 40,000 miles on it, so its in perfect condition (it was previously owned by my father). Anyway, when it is very cold, seems to be when uder 15 degrees....it won't start. It's not the battery, it cranks fine. Had previously brought it to mechanic, who put it on computer diag and of course found nothing. I notice that I don't hear the Fuel Pump kick-in when I turn the key....so is it possible that the pump "freezes up" ??? I have been told that its very unlikely that is happening...also unlikely that gas line is prob, and I have been using gas line anti freeze lately. Mechanic said that I may want to change Fuel pump if it keeps up, but we're talking about a 300. + job, since pump located in fuel tank....would hate to go that route, if thats not the prob. I've also tried rapping the fuel tank when this happens to see if I could give it a kick start. There is also a fuel pump relay somewhere. I guess I could try replacing that , although the Saturn dealer says that hes never seen one of those have problems. If anyone could give me a hint where that is located, I would appreciate it, as its not in fuse box with other fuses and relays. OK, If anyone has any suggestions, I'd appreciate it....Thanks !
#33 of 134 Re: 99 Saturn wont start in extreme cold [dylan01]
Mar 06, 2008 (12:53 am)
I had the same problem with my 95 except it was doing it in the summer as well. It was the fuel pump relay. I didn't even buy a new one i just switched it with the HVAC relay and everything works fine. I have had some people reply and say that worked for them also, so yes they do go bad and computer diagnostics will not detect it. Did you check both fuse boxes? My 95 has a fuse box under the hood and under the dash next to glove box(which is where my fuel pump relay was). I'm not sure if mine just wasn't making good contact or what cuz my HVAC all work fine and that's where i put the relay that was originally the fuel pump one. Good luck to you, hopefully that is your problem and not the 300 fuel pump. If the car runs fine once it does start then it shouldn't be the fuel pump.
#34 of 134 Re: help for some [racermouse]
Mar 22, 2008 (3:18 pm)
i'm having the same issue with my 1993 sc2, did you find out your problem yet, i'm changeing the fuel filter tomorrow hopefully that does it
#35 of 134 Re: help for some [clifford59]
Mar 23, 2008 (1:22 pm)
unfortunately I changed the fuel pump and some other parts that had been suggested and it still is not working properly. I switched out the relay fuses like someone suggested and seemed to work for awhile, then back to the same old thing. I am gong to buy some new relays and see if that cures my problem. Good luck.
#36 of 134 Re: help for some [clifford59]
Apr 10, 2008 (2:46 am)
Well, I thought that switching the fuel pump relays was the cure. I WAS WRONG! The problem reappeared. Since then I have replaced FP relay and FP fuse. Also went in from driver side to wiring to fusebox (behind center console) to check for loose wires into fusebox as had been suggested. No help there. Next thing I was gonna try was replacement of CKP (crank position sensor) since they are inexpensive ($13.99 at autozone) and also I would get a look at the starter as you need to remove it to replace the CKP.
I just happened by the library today and found one of those huge Motor Repair Manuals ( like 5 inches thick) for GM 99-01. There was an 8 part section on
Engine Crank- No Start. problem= intermittent start
connect to OBD and check malfunction history
check circuit 402.
ALSO, it said that when you turn the key to ON (not to start) the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds (every time) This I knew and when I go to start mine I have the radio off so I can listen for it- weirdly though, sometimes mine would start without hearing the FP make a sound. I would wait for the stupid chime to stop (5 dings) and then it would start most times.
I am still looking for a way to turn off the annoying chime, but don't pull the chime fuse, it kills the whole ignition sysytem.
So, I had surmised I had a problem with the fuel pump and/or filter, and I was going to take the car into the dealer and see if they can pull up the 'malfunction history'
and tell me what the 402 thing is, along with checking fuel pump and fuel pressure.
On the way home, as I got off the freeway and came to a stoplight, it now developed the infamous CHUGGLE at idle. Jeez, you had to keep the thing at 2500 RPM to keep it from stalling. Since then I went out to the garage twice and started it, but it needs to rev at least 2500 rpm to keep from stalling. That's where I am now.
#37 of 134 To check fuel pump relay...
Apr 10, 2008 (3:28 am)
I don't know what all years this covers, mostly later 90's (mine is '99) but check yours- there are 2 fuseboxes. One is under the hood, other is on PASSENGER Side of center dash console (radio, A/C) it is a plastic door with velcro. put your finger in the hole and pull it off. on the backside of the door is a chart with all the locations of the fuses and relays. swap the FP relay with the one next to it (HVAC blower). When you turn the key to on you will hear it click. Also, there is an FP fuse (should be 10 red) under the Rear Window Defogger relay. Pull off the defogger relay, then pull the FP fuse and check it. Sometimes when mine won't start, pulling the FP fuse and then reinserting it makes it start (weird huh?) CAUTION- when you pull the FP fuse, it will cause your radio to lose all presets and turn your clock back to 12:00.
#38 of 134 chuggle cough sputter
May 05, 2008 (12:22 pm)
I've just gotten out of surgery on the knee, so there won't be any car repairing again soon. I do have an update on the chuggle issue since my last post.
I got a can of CRC carburetor cleaner (use some good stuff, not a cheapie so it can blast) and removed the throttle body and sprayed it out and the idle air sensor screw. Then I re-removed the EGR and sprayed it out also. Upon removal of the EGR , I found a little chunk of carbon deposit stuck in its needle valve, which turns out was the culprit. I had previously cleaned out the EGR with a toothbrush and this must have dislodged the chunk.
Even though I am still chasing the starting problem, since cleaning out the throttle body the car runs like it has a new engine. and the weirdness continues....
#39 of 134 Cranks but won't start -PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!
May 20, 2008 (12:03 am)
The next thing I was going to try was to replace the CKP (CPS) Crank Position Sensor, but I didn't want to start replacing part by part until I found the problem. So I went to a shop and had them do a diagnostic and OBD scan.
Code 336- CKP sensor fault code signal intermittent.
So I went to AutoZone and picked up one SU-185, only $13.99. This repair will be around $200 if you have a shop do it.
Now I am 2 weeks out of knee surgery with a knee immobilzer on, and I crawled under that car and did it in 2 hours, WITHOUT removing the starter.
NOTE: The bolt that holds it into the engine block was so loose I unscrewed it with my fingers. This most likely contributed to the failure of the CKP.
If anyone out there wants to do this themself and need more info email me I can tell you how I did it w/o removing starter. Also, I got great info from a Youtube video. There is a guy that has over 120 Youtube vids on saturn repairs of all types, and he is very good.
my email : racermousehotmail.com
repair vids> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?p=r&user=richpin06a&page=1
#40 of 134 Intermittent Start Problem
May 24, 2008 (1:35 pm)
I have a 2001 Saturn SL sedan. Frequently, I'll take a short drive to the store, the bank, etc. park, turn the car off, come back 15 minutes later, turn the key and nothing happens. The battery is fine, the radio runs, all lights turn on, door locks function, but the car will not turn over. Absolutely nothing happens.
I have noticed that it seems to be related to the temperature. It only seems to happen on warm days. I've taken it in to be looked at by both the dealer and a private mechanic. They all seem to think it's the starter, but I don't agree. The car starts just fine most of the time.
Anyone else have this experience or have any insight?
#41 of 134 Re: Intermittent Start Problem [krisbj22]
Jun 03, 2008 (7:37 pm)
hey krisbj22, while researching my problem, (and I did alot of research!!) I found that Saturns typically run hot. This of course causes many engine parts and accessories to prematurely fail. It is well known in the Saturn repair circle that starter windings develop dead spots and solenoids burn out frequently. If you are of the mechanically inclined, remove your starter and solenoid and take it to your local Autozone where they will bench test it for free.