- #79 of 105
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Re: 2000 Jimmy Noise in Front Hub [jguyer]
by repairdog
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Oct 15, 2006 (1:28 am)
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Replying to: jguyer (Oct 14, 2006 7:51 am)
Yes, thats correct. Need an 18mm wrench. Unplug the ABS sensor line up about 2' on the frame rail at the connector and may have 1 or 2 other retainers to avoid the suspension cutting into the wire. Good time to check those brakes and grease the slide pins.
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- #80 of 105
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Recurrent noise in front end.
by thard88
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Apr 13, 2007 (6:41 am)
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Replying to: repairdog (Oct 15, 2006 1:28 am)
I have been getting a noise from what a appears to be the front passsenger wheel area. I originally replaced rotors and pads (since it did it only when I was slowing down after driving on highway) to no avail. It kept making noise. I replaced the Hub assembly along with the cv axle on that side, still making the noise but more frequently. Sometimes when I back up it will make an intermittent grind and/or poping. Please help. Is ti my differential, I have the front driveshaft off the differential. Should I be able to spin yoke with the wheels not spinning while jacked up?
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- #81 of 105
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Re: Recurrent noise in front end. [thard88]
by repairdog
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Apr 13, 2007 (3:23 pm)
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Replying to: thard88 (Apr 13, 2007 6:41 am)
The 4wd has an axle coupler on teh pass side that locks the pass side CV. Drivers side always connected. Without the year hard to say and is it 3 or 4 button 4wd - 3 is the part time np233 and 4 is the autotrac np236 case.. If the vac is on partially to that axle coupler it will grind and pop as it meshes and unmeshes so to find out you have to pull the vac line to the front actuator located very nicely under the battery tray - plug the vac and see if thats it.
Let me know if that does it and year/type and I'll tell you what to replace. This all assumes its not a lower ball joint pop/squeek noise and not from the raer brakes or u-joints on the main drive shaft.
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- #82 of 105
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Re: Recurrent noise in front end. [repairdog]
by thard88
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Apr 14, 2007 (4:45 am)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 13, 2007 3:23 pm)
Sorry repairdog, 1999 3 button. Lower ball joints replaced 1-1/2" years ago. Doesn't sound like the u joints on the driveshaft, but at this time it could be anything (even the hamster on the wheel). I will try the vac line and let you know. Thanks a million.
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- #83 of 105
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Electrical problem on 99 blazer
by thard88
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Apr 14, 2007 (4:50 am)
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My 99 blazer has needed a sending unit due to the fact that the gas gauge has been registering full until I get real low, then it will register empty. Now the gauge does not work at all ( registering E all the time) with the light on, my thermastat readout isn't working also, and my shift indicator is not showing which gear I'm in although the PRND21 is still showing. After looking at the schematics I can't see any common wires with the exception of the instrument clusters. All this hapened at the same time.
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- #84 of 105
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Re: Recurrent noise in front end. [thard88]
by thard88
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Apr 14, 2007 (8:19 am)
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Replying to: thard88 (Apr 14, 2007 4:45 am)
it is a 4 button- 1 is for the the auto 4wd
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- #85 of 105
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Re: Recurrent noise in front end. [thard88]
by repairdog
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Apr 14, 2007 (4:24 pm)
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Replying to: thard88 (Apr 14, 2007 8:19 am)
Then you can see the vac solenoid on the firewall with a vac line coming in and the other going down the pass side to the actuator. That solenoid often fails partly open and a dealer only item around $25 and you just pull the 2 lines off (remember which is which) and a simple push to unclip from the bracket.
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- #86 of 105
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Re: Electrical problem on 99 blazer [thard88]
by repairdog
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Apr 14, 2007 (4:31 pm)
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Replying to: thard88 (Apr 14, 2007 4:50 am)
May not all be related. The sender is part of a one piece fuel pump assembly for about $400. plus install and have to drop then tank - very common Blazer problem as the newre pumps have a "Robust" sender now (means GM fixed it and now you can buy a new one and oh well, outa warranty). The new GMs have a 100k warranty but only powertrain so still lacks real help for all their common failures. It is possible the ground wire is bad pass side engine to firewall but not usually.
The thermostat sender is drivers side between the rear 2 plugs and clips on - may be off.
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- #87 of 105
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hub assembly replacement
by unicorn747
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May 15, 2007 (5:49 am)
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I'M GETTING READY TO REPALCE THE HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY ON MY 2001 GMC JIMMY - SHOULD THE BALL JOINTS OR ANYTHING ELSE REPLACED AT THAT TIME ALSO??
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- #88 of 105
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Re: hub assembly replacement [unicorn747]
by repairdog
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May 16, 2007 (2:48 am)
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Replying to: unicorn747 (May 15, 2007 5:49 am)
Depends on mileage and use, as well as 2wd or 4wd.
2wd should be just hubs unless extreme use, in 150k range, loose, or the wear inducator is showing (grease zerk moves up)
4wds after 60k I'd do the lower ball joints and by 125k both lower and uppers as well as rebuilt CV axles as the boots always seem to rip right after the ball joints are done which required pulling the steering knuckle off (thats the big cast steel assembly) which takes all the time.
Good time to lok at brakes then as all comes off so grease the slides and make sure the pads still slide in the caliper brackets.
So, bottom line is look at the wear, your budget, and mileage and decide if you feel lucky today!
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