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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
118 messages, Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 9:53 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
Same problem as posting #95. My A/C broke and the heater core started leaking both within a short period of time on my 95 Blazer, 177K miles. I bypassed the heater core (I live in South FL) and I replaced the A/C compressor/drier/expansion valve and recharged the freon. So now the A/C is cold, but blows only from floorboard and dashboard vents. Mechanic checked the vacuum tube, said it is OK, said the problem is in the vent system. The vents make a hissing noise (very annoying), but I'm not willing to take it to a mechanic for another $500 repair bill, but if I can disassemble the dash and replace the problem part, I'll give it a try. Or maybe the A/C - Vent - Heat control switch has failed?
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Replying to: burdink (Sep 09, 2008 8:06 pm) |
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Replying to: ryan626 (Jan 12, 2009 5:14 pm) |
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Replying to: ryan626 (Jan 12, 2009 5:14 pm) 1 "ACDelco 15-72182 A/C And Heater Vacuum Control Valve" Misc.; $53.27 ... dealer wanted $900 to install ... $95 for part... Amazon.com Price  $50. Its a bear to get at bascially behind dash near the ashtray area screwed to the AC duct work... There are two screws on the backside of the valve that hold it in place... I nipped the mounting tabs on first one I installed so I can more easily replace it .. good thing I did ... these units get sticky and cause wierd air flows ... expect scars... lots of sharp edges in side the dash
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Never go to a dealership to get service or repairs on a vehicle that is out of warranty. Dealerships have their hands full with warranty work on the new cars they sell and they discourage work on cars that are out of warranty. The dealership will give a car owner that has a car out of warranty a "courtesy bid" which will be far above and beyond the average independent auto repair shop labor cost. Today the dealerships make more money off warranty work than from new car sales. 1998-2002 Chevrolet Blazer (full size) A/C - Heater Solenoid Valve AC Delco #15-72182 GM- #16171742 MSRP: $120.57 Dealer Cost: $62.70 |
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Replying to: rsher0001 (Apr 23, 2009 4:53 am) |
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'98 Blazer LS 4 door 4WD 130,000+ miles I do NOT have automatic temperature control. The A/C blows only hot air. The vents DO get warmer if I turn the temp dial to heat. I do not hear the compressor clutch engaging nor do I see/hear the accompanying load increase on the engine. I have checked the low side pressure and it actually reads high (in the red on the cheapo gauge that comes with the cheapo recharge kit). How do you check the compressor to see if it is bad or not? Or, is there something else that may be causing this? I replaced most of the A/C system a couple of years ago with the help of a mechanic friend. The compressor shelled and contaminated the system with bits of metal. We flushed, replaced parts and had the whole thing working great. About 3 months later I parked it... for about nine months. It was when I started driving it again that the A/C no longer worked.
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Replying to: cach22 (May 12, 2009 2:56 pm) Assuming that it will turn then the problem lies elsewhere. The wire you disconnected is the signal to engage the clutch and the electricity isn't getting through. This is because there are a couple of safety sensors checking for pressures in range. The fact that the low side is out of range indicates the low side sensor is not allowing the signal through. The high side may have a sensor too. In any event these are safety devices to prevent the compressor frombuilding up too much pressure and exploding the pipes and connectors. This is what happens when air gets in the system. The compresor will keep compressing the air until something bursts. Normally the coolant will be compressed from a gas to a liquid and pressure will remain normal. But you probably have lots of air in the system. Coolant leaks out generally through the seals where the hoses connect to the compressor and dryer etc. They have little O rings and special seals which may have cracks or are installed incorrectly. I got some seals from the auto part store that looked right but wern't. this part is really tricky and could be your problem. Anyway you have to get all the air out of the system before you recharge. You can't just add more coolant. That won't work. Then when you get it running again there is a test that can detect leaks which you should do around any thing that has seals in it. Good Luck Doug
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Replying to: dfhltd (May 12, 2009 4:05 pm) How easily should the shaft turn? I tried to turn it and it did not budge. I actually scraped some metal filings off trying to get it to spin. Do I remove the belt to try this? Or is it safe to say that it is frozen up? I priced a new compressor and I must say I am not looking forward to replacing this thing. I have yet to try applying any voltage directly to it. I have to rig something up. Plus I need to wait until it stops raining. Thanks, Ken
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Replying to: cach22 (May 13, 2009 2:49 pm) It's frozen. It should turn pretty easy. The clutch drive plate is on the front and easy to get to. It's disengaged from the drive pully. Normally the electricity pulls the drive plate and pulley toghether. You don't need to remove anything. As far as the compressor it ony two bolts on top holding it on. You can get them off in 2 minutes. Disconnect the hoses and take off the drive belt. You can drive it that way until the new parts arrive. The AC belt doesn't drive anything else I don't think. You can try again to turn the compressor but it sounds like its frozen. When you charge the system you need to put quite a bit of ester oil in the new compressor. You can buy at the local auto store.Without it it's like running an engine w/o oil. It will seize. You need to flush the drier and evaporator and condesser to get any metal filings out that may have come from the compressor when it siezed. Figure out which way the coolant flows in the system and then blow through the dryer, condenser and evap in the opposite direction. Use AC flush and clean that you can buy at the auto store too. I think I used a hose and funnel to get as much flush as I could and then an air compressor to blast it through. I don't know if this is the approved way but it worked. I bought a new compressor with a new clutch online for $160 - $200. I assembeled evertything and took it into a automeotive AC shop and had the system evacuated and filled with coolant for about $85. They can check to see if the pressure is right and the seals arn't leaking as part of the service. Doug |
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