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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
97 messages, Last post on Sep 19, 2008 at 7:10 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: juliemact (Apr 30, 2008 10:20 am)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Apr 30, 2008 11:50 am) Julie
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Replying to: juliemact (Apr 30, 2008 2:34 pm)  Curious about the temp gauge, though. When you start from cold, the gauge will go up just above normal for a minute or so, and then should drop back to normal. What this indicates is the point at which the thermostat opens.
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Apr 30, 2008 7:45 pm)
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Replying to: juliemact (May 01, 2008 9:09 am) |
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I bought my 2000 4.3L Blazer in 2003 with 38,000 plus miles on it. Since then, I have replaced the heater core, door bushings, front driver locking mechanism, idler arm, shocks, but didn't even bother replacing those poorly made front reclining handles on the driver and passenger seats. Now, my A/C isn't puttin out cold air, so I had the shop do a test and refill the freon a couple weeks ago. A week later, there is no more freon, so I take it to another shop. They do a leakage test with dye in the freon and can't detect anything in the engine comparment... and they said it is most likely the Evaporator Core behind the dash... and this will cost almost $1000 to replace. Is this really the problem, or is this shop blowing "hot air"? Also, it is even worth it to replace? Please advise. Thanks!
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Replying to: truly_genwine (May 06, 2008 5:38 pm) Most of the time the freon leaks are from the hoses, O rings and fittings but...... If you suspect the evaporator, have the freon drained at the AC place and see if you can attach some fittings to the evap inlet and outlet to do a pressure test to see if it leaks. You don't have to take it off if you can attach some hoses or fittings As far as I know the evap. is bolted to the firewall with 4-5 bolts or nuts and can be removed yourself with out getting under the dash. Then you could have it checked with the dye and UV light. If it's bad you could either buy a new one or get a used one from the junk yard that doesn't leak. In either case it's no where near $1000. If the evap is OK check to see the clutch to the compressor isn't slipping. When the bearing goes bad after 90,000 miles it ejects ball bearings which get trapped in the clutch until they disintegrate causing the clutch to slip. Also you might want to check the receiver-drier. It acts as a filter to the system and if it gets plugged up then the freon dosn't go to the evap as much as it should. They don't cost much and are easy to replace. Hope this helps
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Replying to: dfhltd (May 06, 2008 6:52 pm) I know a few things about cars... but mostly because of whats been replaced... other than that... you don't want me around to help... haha. Heres the thing. I took it to one shop just to do a basic test and add freon... and it worked fine for a little bit. I had no need for A/C until a week later, and found it wasn't working. So I took it to another shop, and they did the same tests, and added more freon... this time adding dye to it, and they didn't find any leak in the engine compartment. The shop owner suggested that it was the Evaporator Core and it needed to be replaced... for almost 1k. I have a cousin that could help me if I can dial in the primary issues... but don't really know if I should take what the mechanic said as the truth.. or a waste of time. I want to take it to a 3rd place... but these A/C tests run 70 dollars plus every single time. What do you think??? |
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Replying to: truly_genwine (May 06, 2008 5:38 pm) I had this exact same problem on my '99 model. Couldn't find a leak anywhere, and then of all things, my son could actually hear the soft hiss of the leak! Nothing wrong with that kids hearing! The seals are about $5-$10 each, takes about five minutes to replace, but then the system needs to be evacuated (vacuum draw down) and recharged. Hope this helps you out. Definitely cheaper (and a whole lot easier) than changing the evaporator core. |
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