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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
97 messages, Last post on Sep 19, 2008 at 7:10 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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| Ok, so we spent some quality time with the '98. First I went to the local Chevy dealer where the parts mgr was kind enough to give me copies of the exploded diagrams for this heater box flapper/valve/door system. It turns out that the issue for this problem centers on the 'valve' that is on the left side(driver's) side of the heater box. Due to the number of times that this dash assembly has been in and out of the SUV, a small section of the trim around the floor vents was cracked and so, easily removed so that I could see up inside. There didn't appear to be any problems with the vacuum hoses or assemblies. The goal was to get this horizontal door that allows heat to the floor ducts to open up. What the H, I took a pair of very long (straight section about 8 inches) needle nose pliers with a 45 degree angled nose and stuffed the angle part up the ducts to try to push the door open. Guess I was living right... heat on the floor!!!!!!!!! Jubilation only lasted until the next day when the same problem reoccurred. This time after pushing the door up and open, we took a piece of form wire and put a long loop in it, with the diameter of the loop about 3/4 inch. The long length of the loop was so that the raw end didn't get caught on anything and wire was used to be able to shape it to follow the contour of the duct UP to the door/valve. We did not (fortunately) ever have temp problems. The current size of the loop end creates an opening that is ok for heat supply. More supply could be created by making a larger loop end and thus holding the door farther open. You could probably recreate this repair even if the trim is not broken out like ours was; you just need to be able to stuff a loop of wire up the duct to push the door open. We made sure to disconnect the battery while we were working in there, even though it doesn't appear (from the diagrams) that there is anything electrical involved. (Be sure to have your radio reset code). We are guessing that what was happening was that this door was falling down into the opening that it was designed to close off, either through wear or a worn seal. The motor drive didn't have enough power to pull it up out of the stuck position and thus the cheap plastic drive assembly broke. So we saved ourselves a $500 repair bill, but then our house furnace's blower motor died. Guess there's just no winning some days! | |
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I have a 2005 blazer and my heater doesn't work it worked fine one day and the next it doesn't can some one please help me out 
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Recently I had the joy of replacing my heater core in my 1999 Chevy Blazer. After having everything put back in I realized that I had one part and 3 screws left over. Well, after the first cold night I realized that the part I left off was my BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR. So my question is where does it go, how do I put it back in, and can I do it with out having to take the dash board apart again? Please help I have to do as much of my own vehicle work as possible due to the fact I am a preacher so I do not have alot of money.Thanks
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Replying to: ccfrazier2 (Feb 27, 2008 8:54 am) Go to the parts counter at the dealer and they will copy the pictures and be sure to get the list of the descriptions. They will give it to you for free. You should be able to identify 3 flaps or doors. You should be able to see the one that goes between the hole for AC and heater. The actuator is connected to the shaft of the door and bolts to the duct. The pictures from the parts catelogue will show where it goes. |
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Replying to: dm2785 (Dec 29, 2007 8:48 pm) Thanks 
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My 1997 Chevy Blazer Compressor Clutch does not get any power when i turn on the A/C in the car... What could the issue be?
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Replying to: hyperhtml (Apr 18, 2008 2:48 pm) There are two small round metal and rubber high pressure gaskets about the size of a water hose gasket but thinner that are where the two aluminum tubes bolt to the top of the compressor. These seals can slowly leak causing a freon loss. If you decide to just add freon, use the freon without oil as you haven't lost the oil from the system. If you decide to change the seals, you should have a vacuum drawn on the system before recharging. That way you get all the moisture out. |
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Help, My heater only works sometimes. More specifically, the blower works but only blows cold air. When I don't need the heater, it works just fine. The temperature gage occasionally reads high. I have also noticed that sometimes, when the fan switch and the heat/AC/Fan selector switch is turned off, there will be heat coming out of the vents (small amount). When I flip the fan and heater switches on; the air turns cold. When this has happened before I have changed the thermostat. This time a new thermostat did not fix the problem. What else should I consider checking? Julie
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