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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
118 messages, Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 9:53 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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I'm having identical issues as message # 49 - I have replaced my thermostat and checked my coolant levels. I have reduced heat in my system coming out of all air supplies.I'm trying to understand if the coolant flow through my heater core is controlled by a proportioning valve to reduce / increase heat or how it is controlled. My assumptions are that the select heat / cool knob on the front of the dash is a potentiometer but I do not not what it is controlling. Any help would be appreciated. Dean Arzberger
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Replying to: toolzz (Dec 09, 2007 8:29 am) I just had mine fixed at the dealer (see message #52) as I found out that we DID have a 90 day 3000 mile warranty. It was a spring inside the radiator that regulated the water flow- it would work sometimes and sometimes not- so as we did not fix it ourselves I canot tell you the absolute specific details of the particular spring- I am sure we could have never figured that one out- we thought it was the select heatt/cool knob at first that controlled the baffle that opens the heat. Good Luck. :} Anna
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Replying to: jetson2001 (Dec 09, 2007 12:58 pm) toolzz
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Replying to: toolzz (Dec 10, 2007 6:12 pm) The spring was in the main radiator. The heater core was fine. Anna
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Replying to: jetson2001 (Dec 11, 2007 5:13 pm) Let me know Please Toolzz
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I have been trying to troubleshoot my ZR2's lack of heating. ( see message # 53 ) I have found that after the engine has reached temperature 195 deg. and I have the fan on with the heat on ( NO climate control ) I have about 165 deg. on the inlet hose to my heater core and about 109 deg. on the return line from the core.If I take the truck for a short drive I have heat coming out like I usually did. After driving approx. 5 mins. I start to loose heat out of my air supply ducts. Is this a partially plugged heater core ? I only have 58 k miles on the truck . I also noticed that with the truck ideling, the heater on / fan on 2, my A/C compressor clutch was kicking on / off sparatically. After returning from a short drive to test it, the A/C comp. did not kick in. Any help would be appreciated. Toolzz |
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| have read all the threads about the blend door & related. This 98 is on its fourth heater door, the one that directs the heat to the floor or to the defrost or the vents. The temperature is controllable so we know the "blend door" is OK, but we have little or no heat to the floor. It's a $15 part and $485 in labor since the front fender, hood and dash have to come out to replace it. At 10 years of age and 329K miles, it's still a more than serviceable vehicle, if not for this heater issue, but we would rather not dump another $500 into this door deal. I have looked at the schematics and wonder if there is some way to get at that flapper door to prop it up to allow heat to the floor area. I'm hoping that I can identify the lower box on the driver's side and carefully drill a hole that would allow me to stick a piece of coathanger, etc up to get that door up. The door's spindle is probably broken, which is what has been the case in the previous replacements. The vacuum elements are not the issue. I am working from the dealer's schematic put out by ProQuest Automotive EPC and the lower heater box that I am contemplating drilling is, I believe, # 11, in the area over the part that's labeled 14. Any help with this would be appreciated. I'm the 'house' mechanic (resp. for a 69 xk-e, 67 & 81 corvettes ">& 47 Chris Craft), so will understand any directions that are provided. | |
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I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer with a heater that only seems to work when it wants to. One day it will work just fine and the next day nothing at all. It gives no warning and I have not heard any unusual noises....it's not only the heater, it's cold air too, when I turn it on nothing happens. But I can go out a couple days later and turn it on and it works fine. Any suggestions as to what the problem could be? Thanks
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Replying to: toolzz (Dec 15, 2007 7:28 pm) Sorry I've been away for Christmas. It was Pete at Folsom Lake Dodge in Folsom CA. :} Anna |
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I'm guessing when you say nothing happens you mean the blower doesn't run. If that true the control on the dash for blower speed may be worn out, the wires to the blower may not be making a good connection or the balast resistors may be broken or not making good connection. I suggest when you have the problem you check the voltage at the dash blower speed switch both in and out. The switch connects to the blower and balast resistors which switch in more or less resistance to slow the blower down. Next I would check the voltage at the blower motor. The blower is in the engine compartment. If there is voltage at the motor but it's not runing, check that the motor is grounded by hooking a seperate wire from a clean spot on the frame to the battery negative terminal or you could measure the voltage on the fram. If it's not grounded the frame will have a voltage on it and it should be zero. If there is voltage at the control but none at the blower, check the resistors. They stick into the air passage between the blower and the heater core. It should be connected with a plug and I believe the resitors are on a plate that can be removed. The blower, resistors and control are all replacable parts. Good Luck |
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