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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer Chevrolet Blazer Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
118 messages, Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 9:53 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: cach22 (May 13, 2009 2:49 pm) It's frozen. It should turn pretty easy. The clutch drive plate is on the front and easy to get to. It's disengaged from the drive pully. Normally the electricity pulls the drive plate and pulley toghether. You don't need to remove anything. As far as the compressor it ony two bolts on top holding it on. You can get them off in 2 minutes. Disconnect the hoses and take off the drive belt. You can drive it that way until the new parts arrive. The AC belt doesn't drive anything else I don't think. You can try again to turn the compressor but it sounds like its frozen. When you charge the system you need to put quite a bit of ester oil in the new compressor. You can buy at the local auto store.Without it it's like running an engine w/o oil. It will seize. You need to flush the drier and evaporator and condesser to get any metal filings out that may have come from the compressor when it siezed. Figure out which way the coolant flows in the system and then blow through the dryer, condenser and evap in the opposite direction. Use AC flush and clean that you can buy at the auto store too. I think I used a hose and funnel to get as much flush as I could and then an air compressor to blast it through. I don't know if this is the approved way but it worked. I bought a new compressor with a new clutch online for $160 - $200. I assembeled evertything and took it into a automeotive AC shop and had the system evacuated and filled with coolant for about $85. They can check to see if the pressure is right and the seals arn't leaking as part of the service. Doug |
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I can't take the sloshing noise under the dash any more. Before it really gets hot and musty smelling I would like to blow the line out with air (did this on a minivan years ago, worked great). PROBLEM I can't locate this line. I now have the wheel liner out and still can't see it! Any one got advice. Last fall the local garage had it on their lift and they couldn't find it either.
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Replying to: rjmac (Jun 05, 2009 4:37 pm) The sloshing noise probably is the heater. I noticed that the heater core is pretty high and the hoses leading to it are longer than they need to be so they arch up. If there is air inn the system it will goe to the highest spot which is the heater core and hoses. Re route the hosesso they are lower than the heater. Make them shorter if necessary. Then find a way to bleed the air out of the system. Once there is no air in the system the noise will go away. |
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| Issue: I have no heat regardless of temperature control setting with the exception of when I set to full clockwise, and then gets hot as heck. AC works all too well and will freeze you out of vehicle. Again no adjustment with temperature control just cold as heck unless I turn temperature control fully clockwise, then heat takes over and it gets too hot in vehicle. Just a slight adjustment counterclockwise and all bets are off, no heat. Vehicle is equipped with auto climate control, just does not seem to work. Any and all advice welcomed. Thanks | |
My air and heater both work but in differant settings. Air only works on far right of dial and heater on only works on center settings. Air/heat only blows out dash at you and alittle at windshield no matter what the setting on the dial. All fan settings work fine. Is it just a bad dial? Any ideas on this? Thanks
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Replying to: johnwny (Sep 28, 2009 8:16 am) Good luck |
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Guys my WIFE'S 2002 blazer has no heat .. i pulled the return heater hose and NOTHING.. one side is hot and the other nothing( its a little wet but no running water)... ???? can I use a air line to maybe blow the core out??? or is it to late and i have to replace it......????
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Replying to: gunnysarge (Oct 14, 2009 3:48 pm) Gently turn on the water and watch for crud to come through the drain side. Once it starts flowing freely, let it run until the water coming through is clear. Put everything back together and get the system flushed and refilled with fresh Dexcool. Do not try to switch to standard antifreez unless the whole cooling system is flushed until the drain water is drinkable! (just kidding, but it needs to be completely flushed) Those two types of antifreeze will not play together, and even a little bit will cause problems. With a little luck, the corrosion will not have eaten through the heater core. |
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Issue: no heat. A/C works fine, blower works fine, but it seems when I turn the temp control knob, it turns too easily. I understand there is a baffle that the knob controls to reroute from A/C to heat, but not sure where it is or how to get to it. My thermostat is fine, but going to replace it anyway, along with a new radiator cap. Have not completed a coolant flush, am scheduling that in the next couple of weeks. I also heard it might be some sort of relay switch, located under the hood near the firewall? Any assistance?
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Replying to: bigdaddy6886 (Oct 31, 2009 9:11 am) this will help you find the baffels or doors (3) that control airflow and the parts that control them. Check the hoses at the firewall going in and out of the heater to see if they are hot. |
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