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Coupes & Convertibles Chrysler Sebring Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems
131 messages, Last post on Nov 06, 2009 at 12:35 PM
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Replying to: dga57 (Dec 06, 2007 12:06 am) I'm not a mechanic either, so maybe someone who does it for a living will jump in here. You can reset the computer if you think it might have adjusted to being driven in warmer temps for all these years. There is probably a main fuse to do this but the sure way is to disconnect the negative cable to your battery and leave it off for an hour or more. After you reattach it and start the car let it sit and idle for several minutes until the idle RPM settles down. Other things to consider that might be heat-related are the plug wires. If the wires are going bad heat will magnify the issue. If they are the original wires it's time to replace them anyway. Do you know when it last had a tune-up? Maybe new plugs while you're replacing the wires. Does the air filter look fairly clean? I once had a car that ran well most of the time but it stalled out for no apparent reason. A service department discovered debris in the tank and a clogged fuel filter. If I let it sit for a few minutes the debris would settle back down and it would start right up. You might add a fuel filter to the tune-up list. They're usually not too hard to replace but be sure you depressurize the fuel line before removing the old one or you'll get a fuel bath. Your owner's manual or the fuse box cover should say which fuse goes to the fuel pump. Remove it and let the car idle until it stops from lack of fuel. Lastly, you might add a can of a quality fuel injector cleaner to your tank.
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Replying to: tedebear (Dec 06, 2007 12:42 am) Dwayne
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Replying to: dga57 (Dec 06, 2007 10:09 pm) 
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Replying to: dga57 (Dec 06, 2007 12:06 am) I don't know very much about cars. But, your problem sounds exactly like the problem that I had recently with my car. It needed a new TTC or something called a torque solenoid. I would call a transmission shop and explain the problem you have been having, mention that you think it might have something to do with the torque solenoid and see what they say. It cost me about $300 to get it fixed in California. Also, another word of advice, always make sure you have enough antifreeze/coolant in you car. I had a major problem with mine when I let it run dry. The whole lower half of the engine had to be replaced, but at the time it was actually cheaper than buying a new car. Let me know what you think, and if that is what was wrong with it. |
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Replying to: thphelps (Sep 30, 2007 7:13 pm) |
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 I have 2001 Sebring (and I love my car) conv. she has been great!! I bought it used, with 24k miles on it. I've only had to replace the starter after some idtiot tried to give me a jump with a jump start box and fried it, after he tried to jump start my car, he shorted out the started and it kept blowing fuses. Thurs (last) I was driving down the road and stopped for gas, while I was idling waiting in line for the gas, my car started to idle rough. I filled the tank got back on the road, my power stearing started to make an odd sound, I hear a pop, the check engine light came on, and my car died.. I rolled onto the shoulder and when I tried to restart the car, all I got was click click click - nothing else. My mechanic can't figure it out, he thinks it maybe the computer - any thoughts prior to me spending over a grand a computer if that may not be the probelm?? I really need some help please - Thanks, Eva
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| Hello,We put in a new fuel pump.It has very good spark.And of course no codes.If I understand it correctly,if the crank or cam sensor is bad there will not be any fuel presure or spark.We are stumped could someone please help us with some advise.Thank You John | |
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Hi, I am new to this site and this is my first post. I have recently purchased a 95 sebring with only 101000 kms on it. it starts fine and has never stalled on me, but when it heats up and im going 30-40 kms and press the gas pedal the rpm's drop down from 2500 to 1000 and then climb back up 5-10 seconds after. The engine light also comes on soon after this happens and i cant drive an hour without the light coming on or the car doing this. it is cold where i live and when the car is running cold it doesnt seem to do this. Car idle's fine and other than this problem runs good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. p.s. - i really dont think its the transmission it seems to be more of a fuel or electrical issue. thanks in advance |
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1997 sebring lxi will crank over but has difficulty starting, especially if the car has been driven long trip (20 minutes), engine turned off, then attempt to restart within 5 minutes. It has sometimes lost all power resetting my clock but I turn ignition key off, the on again and it will crank and eventually start. Once it starts car idles fine and runs fine. I have changed spark plugs, rotor, distributor cap. Not sure where to go from here. Has anyone experienced similar problem. Considering first changing crankshaft sensor then possibly distributor if that doesn't work. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Replying to: 1997lxi (Feb 21, 2008 9:00 pm) However, you may want to read this forum. I started the post and it has about 50 replies. http://www.sebringclub.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=9682&highlight=billg13 |
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