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Coupes & Convertibles Chrysler Sebring Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems
132 messages, Last post on Nov 15, 2009 at 11:41 AM
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Replying to: skipford1 (Sep 02, 2007 7:46 am) |
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Replying to: johnjr101 (Aug 27, 2007 7:31 am)
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2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertibe with 2.7L V-6 Has twice blown the Fuel/Start 20A fuse in power distribution center under hood. Any ideas or fix to this problem?  Ted
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Hey folks. I've got a 98 thats acting up, seems it wants to die out sometimes at stop lights or when you decrese the excelleration. I'm pulling a code P0172,I can't seem to find my code explanation book. Does anyone have a good idea what this code is referring to??? 
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Hi... I'm new here. This spring I purchased a 1-owner, 70K mi., 2002 Limited convertible which, until then, had been a south Florida car. Brought it home to Virginia and drove it pretty much daily with absolutely no issues until temperatures dropped too low to drive with the top down. Because we have four other vehicles and this one was bought strictly for summer fun, it has not been used much for the past couple months. I have made an effort to drive it about once a week and just recently started having problems. One morning about three weeks ago, it stalled out at a traffic light without warning. Finally was able to restart after about ten minutes. I thought maybe some water had gotten in the fuel somehow so added a can of seafoam to take care of the problem. Drove it about 50 miles later that day without incident. About a week later, I took the car out to run a few errands and it performed flawlessly for the 30 or so miles I drove it. Yesterday I started it and drove to the Post Office (about five miles). I turned it off, went inside for about five minutes, and when I returned it would not start. Remembering my prior experience, I decided to give it a little time. I tried every two minutes and finally, on the eight minute mark, it started perfectly and ran like nothing had ever happened. I took it for about a 10 mile run before returning home where I shut it off again and restarted it several times just fine. The only real variable I can think of would be the temperature. Both times I've had problems the outdoor air temperature has been thirty degrees or lower and the engine was still cold enough that the temperature gauge had not started to rise. The trips in between were made later in the day when it was warmer out... probably closer to fifty-five or so. I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but was wondering if, since the car has always been in a warm climate, the cold temperatures could be causing the problem? If this is even a possibility, what needs to be adjusted or reset to fix it? For now, I'm considering just starting it periodically rather than actually driving it until the temperatures warm up again and see what happens then. It currently has 76K miles and we love the car otherwise. Thanks for any insight you can offer. Dwayne |
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Replying to: dga57 (Dec 06, 2007 12:06 am) I'm not a mechanic either, so maybe someone who does it for a living will jump in here. You can reset the computer if you think it might have adjusted to being driven in warmer temps for all these years. There is probably a main fuse to do this but the sure way is to disconnect the negative cable to your battery and leave it off for an hour or more. After you reattach it and start the car let it sit and idle for several minutes until the idle RPM settles down. Other things to consider that might be heat-related are the plug wires. If the wires are going bad heat will magnify the issue. If they are the original wires it's time to replace them anyway. Do you know when it last had a tune-up? Maybe new plugs while you're replacing the wires. Does the air filter look fairly clean? I once had a car that ran well most of the time but it stalled out for no apparent reason. A service department discovered debris in the tank and a clogged fuel filter. If I let it sit for a few minutes the debris would settle back down and it would start right up. You might add a fuel filter to the tune-up list. They're usually not too hard to replace but be sure you depressurize the fuel line before removing the old one or you'll get a fuel bath. Your owner's manual or the fuse box cover should say which fuse goes to the fuel pump. Remove it and let the car idle until it stops from lack of fuel. Lastly, you might add a can of a quality fuel injector cleaner to your tank.
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Replying to: tedebear (Dec 06, 2007 12:42 am) Dwayne
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Replying to: dga57 (Dec 06, 2007 10:09 pm) 
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Replying to: dga57 (Dec 06, 2007 12:06 am) I don't know very much about cars. But, your problem sounds exactly like the problem that I had recently with my car. It needed a new TTC or something called a torque solenoid. I would call a transmission shop and explain the problem you have been having, mention that you think it might have something to do with the torque solenoid and see what they say. It cost me about $300 to get it fixed in California. Also, another word of advice, always make sure you have enough antifreeze/coolant in you car. I had a major problem with mine when I let it run dry. The whole lower half of the engine had to be replaced, but at the time it was actually cheaper than buying a new car. Let me know what you think, and if that is what was wrong with it. |
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