Last post on May 08, 2013 at 6:49 PM
You are in the Chrysler Sebring
What is this discussion about?
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#215 of 252 Re: 1999 Sebring Convertable Loses power and dies [snowdogdt]
Sep 20, 2011 (5:03 pm)
Easy....pull it in and have them tested.............................................!
#216 of 252 Re: 1999 Sebring Convertable Loses power and dies [chettimarelli]
Sep 20, 2011 (6:12 pm)
it shows no codes and the battery and alternator test good.
#217 of 252 Re: 1999 Sebring Convertable Loses power and dies [snowdogdt]
Sep 22, 2011 (12:35 am)
Sounds like a bad ground somewhere..
#218 of 252 97 Sebring Convertible JX Frustrations for last 6 months
Oct 25, 2011 (4:58 pm)
Ok. I am really frustrated with this car. April '10 I purchase a 97 Sebring Convert. It was a one owner car who apparently kept in excellent condition and it looked and ran like a dream. Well, for the first yr it was great until the winter hit. I hit a deep pot hole. All was fine for another couple of months, the my passenger side ball joint, arm and axle all broke $660.00. Then it went into limp mode on a constant basis. I would have to pull over, turn the car off and then the restart it in order to continue on my way. Well, my mechanic said that it was some wiring and sensors, had those replaced $380.00. No sooner did I leave the lot that it went into limp mode again. Mechanic said it was the main computer. Had that replaced $580.00. After about 3 weeks of fabulous driving, I crossed an intersection and it was like my car hit a brick wall. Everything died. Mechanic towed it and it took 2 weeks to figure it was the distributer assemby. had it replaced 650.00. After another week of great driving it went into limp mode again. Turns out the PCM is bad now. Needs to be replaced. $550.00. So I shouldn't have any problems at all now except for a tiny oil leak and a small exhaust leak in the engine. Mechanic said I can still drive it with no problems until I can get it fixed at an oil place. Ok I said.
Well, here I am a month later with a dead car in the driveway. Why? Because as I was driving today my car started to act like it was out of oil and gas. Sputtering, coughing, lerching, jerking and then it would all die. Turn the car on immediately after and it is shaking so much you almost get sick! I had to pray for green lights because the minute I take my foot off the gas it starts to shake and shudder and then stall out. Unless I get a green before it can and I punch it and it slooooowwwly makes it's way up the road and then it lunges forward and runs normal until I take my foot of the gas and then it crawls. I can't seem to get a definitive answer for this.
Has anyone had this problem?
Can I fix it myself? As you can see, Im already well over 2000.00 in repairs for this car.
It has 116K miles on it and it's from Florida.
This car has been a thorn in my mechanics side for months now.
What is going on?!!!!!
Thank you in advance.
#220 of 252 Re: 97 Sebring Convertible JX Frustrations for last 6 months [fibreheart]
Oct 26, 2011 (3:32 pm)
Mitsu V6? or the 4 banger? Can you get the codes? My first guess would be MAF.
#221 of 252 Car stalling out
Nov 26, 2011 (8:32 am)
Whenever im at a stop in traffic my car idles very low. shakes and then cuts off. it will start right back up. Also not getting any gas to the enigine when first taking off. Putting it in the shop Monday but want to give the mechanic some ideas so im not throwing away money. Should i tell him to start with the cranshaft sensor????
#222 of 252 Re: Car stalling out [kmcqueen]
Nov 26, 2011 (4:41 pm)
Year of car, engine? Does it do it all the time? recent issue is this after sitting for a bit and does the engine light come one?
First thing to check is MAF ... MASS AIR FLOW a bad one will cause stalling, rough idle, stalling and the car will usually start right back up but lack power.
The Mechanic needs to check the engine Code first before anything else. You should check them also so it will give you a general Idea what could be wrong .. Run the car for a bit so its warmed up about 2500 rpm cycle through everything Reverse, drive neural turn AC on off etc..then turn the car off.
With engine not running turn the ignition key to ON, OFF, ON, OFF and then ON again (do not start the car or crank then engine)
You must do it with-in 5 seconds the codes will begin to flash.. The light will blink the numbers first digit then pause the second digit.. EXAMPLE..
The cam sensor will flash pause flash that is code 11.
Intake Air temp sensor is code 23 it will flash flash pause flash flash flash.. Just examples....
#223 of 252 Re: Car stalling out [rbender]
Dec 06, 2011 (10:13 am)
Its a 2003. I put it in the shop last Monday. Mechanic just called and said he doesnt know what the problem is and cant fix it. Said he is putting the engine back together and that i can pick it up on Thursday.
I will do the the on and off thing you mentioned when i get it back and maybe that will help me out.
Also, It only starts stalling out when the car heats up. When i first drive it it will run fine like nothing is wrong with it. After about 15 minutes of driving, the enging will heat up, and im in trouble.. thats when the stalling starts.
I only owe about $2500 more and ive already put soo much money into fixing this car i dont think i can handle throwing away any more money if whats wrong with it is a MAJOR problem.
Should i just try taking it to a dealership and see what they can do for me? Maybe trade it in or something. Im a female and i just dont wanna be screwed out of any more money. CHRYSLER SUCKS!!
Thanks for the advice.
#224 of 252 Re: Car stalling out [kmcqueen]
Dec 06, 2011 (10:35 am)
Ok my'97 was doing the same thing.
What happen was. The Distributor assembly burned out the first time. Had that replaced and it still didn't help all that much so took it back and found out that the 3 spark plug cables under the manifold had corroded and were arching to all the metal around them, including my new distributor effectively burning it out again causing me to stall and cutoff like I wasn't getting any gas. Now that it's all been replaced, she runs fine, not perfect, but no more engine light or stalls.