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#191 of 269 2009 chrysler sebring convertible
Mar 12, 2011 (4:21 pm)
Recently i have purchased a 09 chrysler conv. sebring. The car was perfect the first month of sale (lol) then beginning in feb. of this year the vehicle has a bouncing feeling when u are in traffic. When you slightly take your foot off the brake the car starts shimming and actually makes u sick. We brought it back to the dealer and after the third time trying to fix this problem we were told that it is a problem in the transmission i.e. (supposedly a fuel problem). Now the dealer says there is nothing i can do for this and that the lemon law doesnt apply to the purchase of this vehicle. My question is if the dealer and the manufacturer are aware of this and it was not told to us at sale isnt there something the consumer can do but wait for a possible fix to this problem. We were actually told by the dealer that maybe in a month or two a solution may come. I really do need suggestions or comments on this and appreciate your time in this matter.
#192 of 269 1999 Chrysler Sebring stalling
May 21, 2011 (6:21 am)
Purchased used. Started stalling. Reading discussions on the net. I am not a mechanic but a novice with only basic tools. I've concluded the following:
1999 Sebring convertible was stalling. Would drive and the car would just lose power and stall. No engine lights or codes light up. Plugged in a computer at AutoZone and nothing.
First these cars make it difficult to changed the spark plugs and tune up. 3 of the plugs are under a manifold. So I am concluding nobody changed plugs in a long time.
I changed the plugs and wire set Cost $60.
Many posts about these cars stalling. But most refer to changing the crankshaft sensor and cleaning the EGR. Also there is mention of the MAP sensor and Pugs and distributor.
I changed plugs and wire set. $60 normal maintenace and I was right my plugs were bad.
Installed MAP sensor Very easy fix... $50 it was a little dirty
Cleaned the PCV very dirty easy fix
Installed new crankshaft senor $52 a little difficult. I was not able to work under the car. So with the air intake already removed and I removed a part(don;t know what part it was but it has 2 nuts holding it on at the strut wall, something to do with starter I think) from the drivers side strut had 2 nuts only. I was able to get my hands underneath to reach the 1 bolt for the crankshaft sensor. Sensor was difficult to remove seemed frozen. Taking care not to break it I used a pry bar set and needle nose vise grips and was able to push the senor out by tapping lightly with a hammer using some leverage of the visegrips and the pry bar. The plug snaps in a hole just able the sensor. I just pulled the snap out and was able to easily unplug the sensor in full sight. New sensor just fell into it's hole I bolted plugged the senor in and pushed the snap into place.
Installed a new EGR. $56. Mine was dirty and the diaphragm made a squeaking noise . Probably could have cleaned and wd40'd but I installed new. Removal was not bad. A few bolts and it came out easily. Had to remove a transmission control. It was 3 screws and the bolt that held the wires onto the assembly. Careful not to bend or break any of the wire connections on this wireset. Once this transmission control was out you can get to every part of the EGR easily.
The whole job took me about 7 hours of working time and about hour on the internet Google and reading. I am not a mechanic and had to read and figure things out on my own. But so far the fix has worked.
This is what I spent.
MAP Sensor $46
Plugs and wire set $58
Crankshaft Sensor $52
Pry bar set Advanced auto $20
Needle nose vise grips $10
a couple of slim Jims $ 3
Bottled water $.50
The way I figured I saved 4-5 hours of labor cost of a mechanic at $95 per hour. and I learned something. The tune up alone was the most difficult. All the bolts and the back bolts were the hardest to get to. Have no idea what a mechanic would charge for a tune up.
Driven car about 125 miles so far and no problems. What was the cause? I have no idea. But my guess was the crankshaft sensor and the EGR. The EGR was very dirty and the Crankshaft sensor was also badly damaged. Although banging it with a hammer didn't help much. But the sensor inside the hole was really bad.
I am now going to flush the crankcase with motor flush and install new synthetic oil since I read these cars have a tenancy for sludge buildup. Synthetic oil apparently does not build up as easily. I am also going to change the fuel filter but I will let a professional do that since I saved money already.
Any other ideas for 4 me and others please feel free to reply.
Thanks everyone for posting you were an inspiration and big help to me in getting this job done.
Oh yes I saved money at Advanced Auto using online coupons. My savings was approx $27 avg saving was 15%.
#193 of 269 Re: 1999 Chrysler Sebring stalling [tradwinz]
May 21, 2011 (7:05 am)
Well, I finally had fixed my stalling issue. There are two possible things that might be wrong. One is the Computer Module might be bad. I didn't replace that. What I did replace was the Thermostat sensor. And I made my idle a little bit higher. Me and my buddy couldn't figure it out. I had enough when I was driving 70 mph on the fast lane. Then the car just stalled. I was like "WTF" So i took it to a mechanic. One those cheap one in a slum area. They do good jobs cause they need the money. Try replacing all sensors. Its cheaper if you find them in a junk yard. If you don't have the book, get one. Helps a lot.
#194 of 269 Re: 2006 Chrysler Sebring Conv. Touring electrical issues [irishredhead]
May 21, 2011 (7:12 am)
Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same problem. I have gone through three batteries since Nov 2010. I Drive it every once in awhile. I thing it may be the Alternator.
#195 of 269 Re: 1999 Chrysler Sebring stalling [tradwinz]
May 30, 2011 (3:12 pm)
I have a 1997 sebring convertible JXI w/ 2.5l v-6. Had the problem of no start which is common to the internet posts on this make car. Ended up replacing the: crank postioning sensor, distributor (which includes the cam sensor and coil as they are built in the distributor), upstream 02 sensor, catalytic convertor, fuel filter, egr valve, map sensor, throttle positioning sensor, engine coolant sensor, air intake temp sensor, and battery! Still had a problem of stalling after the car started. Because of the multiple misfires and the air/ fuel mixture being rich (cause of converter failure), there was a lot of carbon build-up in the intake plenum and upper cylenders which affected the vacuum flow for the map and air intake temperature sensors to operate correctly. There were NO CODES that appeared other than "multiple missfires" on all 6 cylinders. The fuel filter waschanged as it was origonal (car now has 188,000 miles) I was ready to change fuel pump, but did a pressure test and yielded a steady 51 lbs. of pressure which is spec. Ultimately carbon and sludge became my issue to "smooth out" the stalling. Due to the electro (signals to ecm)-mechanical (vacuum) configuration of the sensors, carbon build-up restricted the map, egr and air intake sensor to produce a "valid" signal to the ecm which caused the car to run like something from hell. I read about Seafoam and injected it into the brake booster vacuum line, crakcase, and gas tank per intructions on can. Within 30 minutes, the car was running like there was never a problem. This was an expensive "experience" but I believe it will outlast the relationship I plan on having with the car.
#196 of 269 Re: 2006 Chrysler Sebring Conv. Touring electrical issues [teknikalguru]
May 30, 2011 (8:21 pm)
If you are going thru batteries then it is almost assured your alternator.
There are quick tests and easy too, you can do to see if it is your alternator.
#197 of 269 Re: 1999 Chrysler Sebring stalling [tradwinz]
by Claire@Edmunds HOST
May 30, 2011 (10:08 pm)
Thanks for walking us through that, tradwinz!
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
#198 of 269 help 05 four cylinder wont start
Jun 13, 2011 (11:58 pm)
Crusing at 70 it shut off no warning. Check engin light on. Turns over no spark. Can hear fuel pump run an got pressure at rail. Code for cam sensor came up. Replaced crank an cam sensor. Clearly d code. Now i turn key on an hit starter. Turns over still no spark an cam snsor code comes back. Timing belt is there an fine. Pleases help me. This is my only car. I did love it till now.
#199 of 269 97 Sebring Conv. Loses power/stalls when accelerating.
Jul 09, 2011 (12:42 pm)
I've been having variations of this problem for almost a year. Recent repairs include: Honest mechanic replaced sensor (crank or camshaft, cant remember which) R&R'd fuel pump and filter; and cleaned tank and lines. Now he is leaning towards the computer since its not revealing any useable codes, although what i read here indicates thats not uncommon. I replaced only the front plugs and wires... dreading pulling the intake for the back 3 on this 2.5 ltr. The above fixes improved relative performance, but have not eliminated the core symptoms. After I had the car for only a few weeks it started stalling after first daily start. It would also lose power/ not respond to acceleration from a stop unless I coaxed the gas pedal gently. If i put the car in neutral , accelerator would respond almost immediately, and sometimes I could get the rpms up in gear with my foot on the brake. This would be worse in wet weather, but would lessen once the car reached running temp. On hot dry days it was only an occasional nuisance, and after my initial trip it would rarely occur at all til I started it the next day.
But now its raining every day and has gotten intolerable ...and dangerous. It almost always starts fine even right after one of these stalls.
Sometimes I can coax only marginal acceleration from the pedal, and as soon as i get up to 30 or 40 it may just lose power, then diesel or stall, completely unresponsive to the gas pedal. Normal acceleration from a standing stop, will almost always cause a loss of power. And yet if it catches power under heavy acceleration, I'm good to go. Neither of these are feasible practices for consistent driving.
If I do manage to get it up past 45, the odds of stalling decrease and it only misses intermittently. It had not given me any problems on the highway... but i wouldnt even attempt that now.
Other than that vague rpm/torque correlation, there seems to be little rhyme or reason which leads me to think there may be multiple causes with overlapping symptoms.
Any help is appreciated and I will post the successful fix..... unless i put a bullet in it first.