- #38 of 60
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Re: bbywater [bbywater]
by guzzipierce
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Nov 20, 2008 (5:16 am)
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Replying to: bbywater (Oct 19, 2008 4:25 pm)
I have the same problem without the smell of gas. I think the problem may be the vacume high idle . My truck is missing the vacume tubes to the dashpot on the carb. You may have two problems. maybe a leaking fuel hose , as I had one of those too.
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- #39 of 60
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Re: bbywater [bbywater]
by backnford
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Nov 24, 2008 (3:57 pm)
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Replying to: bbywater (Oct 19, 2008 4:25 pm)
The fuel tank selector valve on my 1984 F-150 had rusted through and sprung a leak and was dripping gas in two spots. A mechanic replaced it with a new selector valve + a fuel line and clamp for 180 dollars. The selector valve cost $96.95 and the fuel line was $20.00. The selector valve for the fuel tanks is under the front door of the driver side and mounted on the frame on the inside and has the fuel lines connected to it. What happen is that I filled the rear tank full of gas and the pressure of the gas from the tank broke the rusted valve and caused a leak. I had to keep a small bucket under the truck for two nights and it leaked about quart of gas every 4 hours. I don't think the previous owners had used the rear tank very much. Check under your truck to see how the valve looks. As long as you can get gas from the front tank you should be good to go. I don't suggest toggling it too much and if you use the rear tank remember too fill it half way or it could spring a leak if its old and rusted and hasn't been in use much. This is possibly where the smell of the gas might be coming from. A mechanic can look at it for free and I hope this story perks you up to a much slept-over part of the truck that doesn't get inspected much.
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- #40 of 60
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Re: Fuse 19 Blown [nydiak]
by critter1993
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Dec 02, 2008 (7:40 pm)
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Replying to: nydiak (Apr 19, 2008 7:33 am)
I had the same problem on my 2001 F250 Super Duty. I live in Utah and what a surprise it was to me when my instrument Cluster went out and the gas pedal did not work while I was driving down a mountain. I replaced 3 fuses and then took it to the dealership. Found out one of the wires that was in the engine compartment that went through the firewall and into the fuse box had a nick in it and whenever it got wet it would short out everything. I fixed the wire and have not had the problem since.
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- #41 of 60
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Ford F250 7.3 electronic fuel pump trouble
by maxout1
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Dec 07, 2008 (11:11 pm)
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Came home from work one day with my 1997 Ford F250 diesel. I pulled into my driveway and out of the blue the truck died. I tried several times to start the truck but no luck. For some unknown reason my six port electric fuel pump is not receiving power. I replaced the electronic fuel pump, ECU computer and checked all fuses and relays, so far no luck! I tried looking for the fuel inertia switch but was said that my truck has none. I'am thinking it could be a sensor or a serious ignition problem. If anyone can help me with this problem I will be greatfull!!!
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- #42 of 60
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HELP!!!
by mbaker3
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Jan 02, 2009 (11:42 pm)
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I have an 88 diesel f250 with a 7.3ltr NONturbo and I cant get it to even turn the engine over when i go to start it. I had it running fine 3 days later went to start it and it cranked a few times and then wouldint do anything. Now when i try it the ECU (i think thats what it is) clicks once and thats all.Tried jumping it and nothing happens, not any fusses blown, please someone help me out...Thanks
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- #43 of 60
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1999 ford 150 triton engine sputters going up incline
by rcat
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Jan 06, 2009 (6:41 am)
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I have a triton engine in my truck, It sputters only going up an incline, it idols fine,it run good on the straight away. I have an ob2 scanner it said it was map and vaf had low voltage. I replaced it . The trucks runs great as long as you do not go up an incline. HELP!!!!
rcat
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- #44 of 60
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dead truck
by sswheel
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Jan 11, 2009 (7:12 am)
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I recently bought a 2000 f-250 7.3L diesel. Last night I went to start it and when I turned the ignition to start the entire truck went dead, No lights, no door locks nothing. The day before yesterday I had the truck's electrical system checked and it was fine. Anyone else had this problem and have suggestions on how to solve it?
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- #45 of 60
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Stalling issues
by Jeff_Russell
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Jan 23, 2009 (4:58 pm)
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- #46 of 60
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Stalling issues
by Jeff_Russell
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Jan 23, 2009 (4:58 pm)
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I own a 1995 Ford F-250 power stroke diesel truck. The truck starts fine and run for two or three miles before stalling. The truck will restart but only after it has cooled down-The longer it has cooled down the longer it will run-but again only for two or three miles. The battery light was coming on in the dash so I had the alternator checked. It was declared bad so I replaced it with a new one. The battery light still comes on and the stalling continues. Any ideas as to what is going on?
J
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- #47 of 60
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Re: F250 7.3 stalling problems [onebigdog]
by thankful
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Mar 13, 2009 (12:09 pm)
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Replying to: onebigdog (Jun 22, 2007 5:43 am)
In reference to problems with the 2001 F-250 Ford Truck with the 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel engine; our truck, after several years of dependable service, began to stall and shutdown while driving down the highway. Normally the truck would not start until it set a while, etc. (10, 15, 30 minutes) and sometimes for several hours or more. We noticed that the digital compass reading had been incorrect for several years, and possibly the digital fuel reading average for quite some time. To no good avail, Ford Motor Company replaced our truck’s Cam Shaft Sensor (CSS) under a product recall. Our truck still stalled as before. We replaced the Cam Shaft Sensor at least 2 more times ourselves hoping that this would help, but it continued to shut down. The truck would sometimes stall and shut down 2 or 3 times during a short drive. It would shut down in the city while coming off the interstate highway at idle speed and while driving full speed on a multi lane highway while being followed by heavy traffic causing them to suddenly swerve to another lane to avoid hitting our truck in the rear. The stalling and shutting down was such a problem even to the point of concern for our safety that we began to call on our wonderful Lord and Savior in prayer for direction. Our independent mechanic, who is a former Ford Factory trained mechanic and now an independent SAE Certified Mechanic, trouble shot our vehicle’s “shut down” symptoms and indicated that the next thing that he would do would be to replace the Power Train Control Module (PCM). We did not replace the PCM at that time since our truck temporarily started running without stalling. While we were subsequently researching the PCM’s functions, we learned that the PCM controls a number of other transistors such as the radio, etc. which would typically seem to be unrelated to the functions of strictly PCM. After a while, it appeared that the problem could be the computer (power train control module). We, thankfully found a rebuilt one through the internet for $349 plus shipping. We replaced the computer and also installed another new Ford Cam Shaft Sensor. We allowed the truck to set overnight with batteries charging before trying to start the engine. (Sometimes it seems that the vehicle’s system will lose its memory and that several hours may be needed to restore it.) Now the truck is running great! We appreciate the great advise we got from our mechanic and also ACE along with the much needed rebuilt computer. As always we are so thankful to the Lord for leading us in the right direction. It is such a blessing to have a great dependable truck again. We hope this will help someone else.
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