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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Kia Rondo Prices Paid and Buying Experience
383 messages, Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 11:35 AM
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Replying to: smoothsailin (Mar 05, 2009 10:15 am)
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Replying to: smoothsailin (Mar 05, 2009 10:15 am) I just had to reset the automatic controls (as described in the owners manual ... must of skipped that page). Haven't had a problem since. Ya, I miss my 280Z also ... best car I've ever owned. 
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Replying to: tsm280z (Mar 02, 2009 2:49 am) Note: These results are based on the estimated mileage driven since the dealer filled the car's tank for the 1st time before I took delivery on 2/26. When we returned from our test drive the odometer reflected ~ 25 miles and there were ~ 27 miles on the odometer when I drove the car away from the dealer's lot. So I'm splitting the difference and assuming there were ~ 26 miles on the car when it was filled up for the first time. Ending mileage when I filled up last night: 350 (per the odometer) & 350.7 (per tripmeter B). Estimated mileage driven for the 1st tank: 324 miles (350-26) Fuel volume per pump receipt: 12.857 gallons Note: I filled the tank at less than the maximum rate just until the automatic shut off engaged and did not attempt to add any more fuel. I also noticed the low fuel light illuminated just as I pulled up to a stop light immediately ahead of the Shell station where I stopped to fill up. After subtracting the # gallons required to fill the tank from the car's rated capacity (15.8 gal ?) I'm assuming the volume of gas left when the low fuel light first illuminates may be a little less than 3 gallons. Has anyone else reached a similar conclusion? Average fuel economy estimated for this 1st tank: 25.2 mpg (324 miles/12.857 gal) Note that I generally avoided the use of 5th gear and only drove approximately 20% of the miles on the freeway. The rest of the miles were driven on rural & suburban roads replete w/multiple stop sign and stop light intersections. I also tried to keep the engine rpm between 2k & 4k rpm while varying the rpm regularly by shifting gears in sportmatic mode both while traveling at relatively steady speeds and while accelerating in order to vary how high engine rpm was allowed to rise before each taller gear was allowed to engage. I maintained light throttle applications and operation of the engine above 4k rpm has so far been avoided. Also, with one exception I generally avoided making any short trips of less than 10 miles. Note: I have set up categories for posting results for the '07-'09 Rondos at www.brianbauer.org and intend to post my car's fuel economy results there from now on. If other Rondo owners (I-4 and V-6) would be willing to register and post their results at this site (registration is free) we could building database which could be useful reference tool for current and potential owners who may be interested seeing real-world results for owners of I-4 and V-6 equipped Rondos. I'll mention that my wife also filled up our '98 Toyota Sienna yesterday and just for comparison her result for that vehicle was: 281.4 miles/15.562 gal = 18.082 mpg.  So far I'm pleased w/our Rondo's preliminary fuel economy results. From now on I plan to post any fuel economy-related comments on the forum's thread already set up for this purpose. Carey |
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Replying to: conwelpic (Mar 05, 2009 4:29 pm) I'll have to read the hvac section of the owners manual again and experiment to confirm or deny your claim that there is a provision for U.S.owners to turn off the auto a/c compressor engagement feature when one of the windshield defog/defrost mode vent positions is selected. Based on my experiences with other cars (Toyota and Mazda) I'll be surprised if this is the case. So far I haven't noticed the a/c light illuminate when one of the defrost vent positions are selected even though judging from how the defogging performance improved it seemed to me that the compressor must have engaged behind the scenes. As far as running the compressor occasionally in winter I make it a habit to turn on the compressor for a few minutes after every-other fill up to keep the seals and comonents well lubricated. I'm not a fan of the U.S. auto manufacturers' tendency over at least the past 10 years or so to engineer the vent controls so that the a/c compressor will engage automatically when certain vent positions are selected...and generally only when outside temperatures are above freezing. Personally, I prefer to have full control of when my vehicles' a/c compressors may be engaged. Allowing the compressors to run un-noticed behind the scenes can lower fuel economy and performance unnecessarily and may also contribute to unnecessary and premature wear of the a/c components.
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Replying to: smoothsailin (Mar 06, 2009 6:52 am) "Defogging logic To reduce the probability of fogging up the inside of the windshield, the air intake is controlled automatically according to certain conditions such as (def/foot symbol) or (full defrost symbol) position. To cancel or return the defogging logic, do the following. Manual climate control system 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 2. Turn the mode selection knob to thedefrost position. 3. Push the air intake control button at least 5 times within 3 seconds. The indicator light in the air intake control button will blink 3 times with 0.5 second of interval. It indicates that the defogging logic is canceled or returned to the programmed status. Automatic climate control system 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 2. Select the defrost position pressing defrost button ( ). 3. While holding the air conditioning button (A/C) pressed, press the air intake control button ( ) at least 5 times within 3 seconds. The A/C display blinks 3 times with 0.5 second of interval. It indicates that the defogging logic is canceled or returned to the programmed status. If the battery has been discharged or disconnected, it resets to the defog logic status. Personally from what limited use the a/c is operated in under these conditions I can't see if having much effect with performance (I can't tell from engine sound if its even kicked in, unlike my previous vehicle where you really noticed it) and economy or premature wear. If you live in areas of North America without winter conditions your a/c is being used a lot more than areas that maybe only have much use for it 6 months of the year. However, like I said its your choice.
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I bought a brand new 2008 LX I4 automatic with the convenience package for $13,800 out of the door. The price of the car was about $12.4K
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Replying to: aalsherri (Mar 06, 2009 6:31 pm) |
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Replying to: conwelpic (Mar 06, 2009 3:24 pm) However at this point I'm not entirely sure the a/c compressor DOES engage automatically in the Rondo when a defrost vent position is selected. It's just that last weekend I noted how the windows defogged fairly quickly once I selected defrost and increased the fan speed. So based only on how effectively the system performed I assumed the compressor had engaged, but so far I really haven't confirmed this assumption. Also, I agree with you that when the a/c compressor engages in my Rondo it's barely noticeable and the compressor does seem to be much quieter than any of the those installed in my other cars. For this I say kudos to Kia for the improved and more refined a/c operation! When driving my 2.0L 5-speed manual '05 Mazda 3i if the compressor engages it's clearly audible and if you happen to be climbing a grade in top gear at low rpm or accelerating when it does the effect on performance is akin to throwing out an anchor! As far as the automatic a/c engagement goes, all I'm saying is I'd prefer to have total control over when the a/c compressor can engage. There are plenty of situations where you might want to direct air toward the windshield when neither cooling nor drying of the air is really necessary. In such situations I'd prefer to avoid having the a/c compressor engage unnecessarily, for any time it is your vehicle's gas mileage and performance suffers.
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Replying to: aalsherri (Mar 06, 2009 6:31 pm) Unfortunately (for me) this confirms a suspicion that I should have made a lower initial offer to purchase my '08 LX V6! Oh well... Still, based on the gap between what you say the car cost compared to the final price out-the-door it sounds like either vehicle title taxes and registration fees are noticeably higher in your area-or you may have ended up saddled with some relatively high dealer fees. Above the price negotiated for my Rondo ($15,088 after the $4k mfgr rebate) I paid $399 for "dealer services", $10 for "online filing fees", $584.61 for VA titling taxes (3%), $36.27 for "dealer business license tax" (never should have let this one go w/o protest), $38.75 for registration (tags) and $10 for VA title fee for a total of $1,078.63. Sounds like you ended up paying about $225 morr for fees, licenses & taxes (& options/warranties?) above the base price for your car. You got a great deal in any case!
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Replying to: smoothsailin (Mar 07, 2009 9:36 am) "As far as the automatic a/c engagement goes, all I'm saying is I'd prefer to have total control over when the a/c compressor can engage." You do, if you engage it in the "on" position (eg: in the two defrost positions) where the a/c comes on automatically (the a/c button lights up, therefore the a/c is activated - compressor engaged), if you don't want it on at that point, push the a/c button to turn it off. The only position you can't do this is maximum a/c setting. If you don't want it to come on automatically then use the reset as I described earlier.
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