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Kia Rondo Prices Paid and Buying Experience

383 messages, Last post on Oct 08, 2009 at 11:35 AM
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Replying to: taximom5 (Apr 17, 2007 8:14 am)
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Replying to: skiingyac (Apr 17, 2007 8:57 am) Wish me luck! (lots and lots of luck--I don't seem to have the stomach for this!) |
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Replying to: littlepebble (Apr 14, 2007 11:36 pm) Thanks! |
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Replying to: taximom5 (Apr 17, 2007 7:40 am) [Gill] I don't know, but in my case, the dealer had two lots and both are in semi rural towns. The finance manager admitted to me that they were loosing over $600 on my deal, but if they made their "numbers", they would make $300. Each dealer has different numbers to meet, so it is hard to say why my deal went through and others don't. I made my purchase on the last day of the quarter which made a difference. I also noticed that the lot was full of cars, but few rondos and a delivery semi just rolled in with more stock. It seems there was some sales pressure on the dealer. |
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Today I received this email was from Monroeville (PA) Kia: "Great news we just got in a 3-row seating LX/V6 Rondo with cloth interior. I will honor the penney over invoice sale for one day only even though this sale has ended. My sales manager will only do this deal for you today. I really don't want to see you travel all the way to Chicago. This is best I can do on the Rondo for 60mths and 72mths for qualifying customers. M.S.R.P = $20,665 INVOICE = $19,938 REBATE = $750 APR = 3.9% PAYMENTS = $385 TOTAL FINANCED = $20,999.78 INCLUDES TAXES AND PLATES --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --------------------------- M.S.R.P = $20,665 INVOICE = $19,938 REBATE = $750 APR = 5.50% PAYMENTS = $343 TOTAL FINANCED = $20,999.78 INCLUDES TAXES AND PLATES" My reply was this: Hi, (nameless dealer), According to both consumerreports.com and edmunds.com, the invoice prices are as follows: Base invoice: $17,795 Destination charge $ 600 Third row seat $ 425 ______________________________ Total $18,820 That's $1,118 lower than what you are calling "invoice price"--and that's not even taking the $534 dealer holdback into consideration. Could you please tell me where that extra $1,118 came from? Also, as I mentioned before, in order to get to Monroeville, my husband and I have to to take time off work to get out there; that has to be arranged in advance. If your manager is only offering this "deal" for a few hours, then I think we would be better off going to Chicago! Better that than risking losing my job--I am only allowed to leave early for documented emergencies. Sincerely, Taximom5 Now--question for you guys out in edmunds.com-land: Am I doing something wrong? Or are my expectations too high? I've NEVER had this much trouble getting a decent offer from a dealer before. I've always marched in with my dealer invoice sheets, and the dealer would offer me a car for a few hundred dollars over the REAL (ahem) invoice. I've always bought Hondas, whose PA dealers are notorious for commanding close to MSRP prices, too.
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Replying to: taximom5 (Apr 19, 2007 10:20 am) You did a good job of challenging the dealer on pricing, keep in touch so we know how he answered the question.
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Replying to: taximom5 (Apr 19, 2007 10:20 am) I've been watching this thread for awhile, but only for interest as I'm not in the position as to where I needed to save every dollar I could when buying my wife's Rondo. I just wanted a close-by dealer (10 miles) and one that I've worked with before (we had a 2002 Sportage from them). Our dealer knocked off $1000 from the sticker, $1000 more than Kelly's Blue Book had for our trade-in and a $750 rebate, plus we took advantage of the 3.9% financing. So I was happy. Anyway, back to your question. You say there was a $1,118.00 difference in price in what you wanted and what they offered, but just maybe the 3 LX/V6's that came into the dealer all had the Premium package (Infinity Stereo/Power Sunroof) which I paid $1200 but dealer price could be about $1,118. He can't give that away and has to tack something on to the price quoted. Just a thought. |
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Replying to: mr_orting (Apr 19, 2007 11:03 am) Thanks for the pat on the back, I'm so frustrated by these dealers , I really need all the encouragement I can get!!! |
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Replying to: taximom5 (Apr 19, 2007 11:18 am) [Gill] Your right, but from my experiences out here in Seattle, that it's impossible. I didn't make an issue of it because the dealer had already cut past the bone on the deal. >..Thanks for the pat on the back, I'm so frustrated by these dealers , I really need all the encouragement I can get!!! [Gill] I can well understand your feelings on this. I was going through the same set of problems until I went to the "fax attack" method. Then it really didn't matter because I took the lowest bid. My feeling is that you are really not going to get any attractive offers until the end of the month and better yet, end of the quarter/model year. |
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Replying to: taximom5 (Apr 19, 2007 11:18 am) taximom, sounds like being right by CR/Edmunds standards is giving you more grief than it's worth. I haven't read all the posts leading up to this, but I'd suggest rather than asking what you should be paying, ask yourself how much you are willing to pay for the car you want - use CR/Edmunds to inform your answer, not define it. When I bought my first car, I used the fax method and brought reams of data into my battle with the sales manager I bought from. And boy was it a battle. After we made the deal, I was still trying to figure out how much I overpaid. For days I fiddled with my spreadsheet, going back and forth between resentment for not getting the absolute deal of the century and rationalizing my way into thinking I did. This last time around, I started with a quote from one dealer, then did my research to inform my offer. I liked the experience with the dealer and went back to buy knowing I was willing to settle on a price somewhere between my offer and their quote. I kept that in-between price in mind, and did the deal for $63 more. I was willing to pay that $63 to be happy rather than right. Good luck! |
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