Last post on Nov 15, 2013 at 11:45 AM
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Honda Civic, Coupe, Sedan
#335 of 410 Honda problems
Feb 23, 2010 (3:20 pm)
I have a 2001 Honda Civic who has more undisclosed problems than any other vehicles I owed. I owed many vehicles over my life and I found Honda has more problems and very slow to correct or choose not to correct it. On this 2001, it has bad transmission design from day one and was redesigned in 2003. But they fail to correct the flaw and fail to disclose this design flaw which may cause your transmission to fail. Honda would hope it would fail after the warranty period and they don't have to pay for the correction. Looking at my 2001 Civic, I would buy another Honda. All the vehicles'sI manufactures I owned have corrective bulletins to correct the smallest problem. My Toyotas plus other German cars never have so much hidden problems then my 2001 Civic. Look at the airbag recall. It took 9 years. This is a serious recall as compare to Toyota. Honda is not what they portrait themself to be.
#336 of 410 Re: Honda problems [dlamcpa]
Mar 12, 2010 (5:00 pm)
no kidding. mo 08 civicis a lemon It can not be driven. dealer and honda canada will not do anything. i will sue them until they bleed when i am done. i have not hadf a car for 11 months. problems started at 1` week !!!!! never buy from honda. they are aholes!
#337 of 410 OBD1 code reader on a 90 honda civic dx
Mar 26, 2010 (8:50 am)
am seeing yellow engine lite indicator. where can i hook up an OBD1 scanner to get the trouble code? Thanks 4 your help!!
#338 of 410 Major electrical problems, 20+ hrs in 3 shops, nobody knows the problem
Mar 26, 2010 (9:06 am)
#339 of 410 Major electrical problems, 20+ hrs in 3 shops, nobody knows the problem
Jan 26, 2010 (11:33 am)
My Contact info, along with the technician working on my car, is towards the bottom of this thread. I have incuded both our emails and phone numbers. Please contact if you have any advice, questions, or need more information. Thanks
I have a 2001 Civic Ex Sedan. There are five main problems: power door locks do not work; power windows do not work and none of the four are getting voltage at the fuse box; turn signal switch doesn't work, nor do they light up on the dash; wiper switch only works on medium and high, and does not squirt out any fluid; cruise control doesn't work. Also, inside the fuse block under the dash, some wires in the block have voltage when they shouldn't and others don't have voltage when they should. There is also a relay under the passenger's side dash making a clicking sound when you hit the door lock/unlock button, or manually push down the driver's side door lock (when it works it is a safety feature, when it is manually pressed down, it locks all the doors in the car).
I had a Compustar 5000 series remote start and alarm installed by an authorized compustar dealer. The next day, I went to adjust the shock sensor to a higher level, and on the following day (2 days after the alarm was installed), some problems started happening...
(I do not believe these problems have anything to do with the compustar install, and the only reason for listing the install is I'm trying to detail out exactly what happened and what aftermarket electronics I have on my car. The technician who did the install has not only been doing car electrical for 20 years, but is also extremely competent, has gone above and beyond what anyone in his position should be expected to, and has been a great friend through all of this. More likely than not, it is pure coincidence that these problems began soon after the install.)
I first noticed my remote wasn't unlocking my door locks, then I realized the power locks in the car weren't working as well; the door lock fuse wasn't blown. Gradually over the next month other things malfunctioned. It started off with my turn signals and parking lights after the door locks. The driver's side parking light would come on when I'd hit the arm/disarm button, but not the passenger side. Then when the headlights were on, the passenger's side parking light would come on, but not the driver's side.
If I pushed down the manual door lock (the rectangle manual push/push lock by the window) on the driver's side then my turn signals would stop working, my cruise control would go out, none of my four power windows would roll up or down, my wipers wouldn't work on delay, nor would they squirt out washer fluid. In order to get them working again, I'd have to turn the car completely off, remove the key completely from the ignition, and wait 10 seconds and turn it back on again (if I didn't remove the key, majority of the time, even if the car was left off for 10 seconds, none of the stuff would work).
There was also a freak problem that happened with the PDX 4.150. It may have nothing to do with anything, but I figured I'd mention it nonetheless. I had unhooked the main 0 gauge power from the distribution block to move the amps. When I went to hook up the 0 gauge power to the distribution block, it sparked bright blue, as usual; however the PDX 4.150 started pouring out smoke. I immediately removed the 0 gauge power from the distribution block and left it out, until I had removed the 4.150 from my car. None of the fuses on the amp had been blown, and has since been replaced by Alpine as defective under warranty. After removing the 4.150, I hooked the 0 gauge power back up to the distribution block, it sparked again as usual, and the other amps worked fine. Alpine had no clue what could have went wrong with the amp.
The technician currently working on my car is Jon. Please feel free to contact him for more in-depth knowledge as to what he's done diagnosticaly. His email is jonraxxllc.com and the shop's phone # is (608) 754-6945. My name is James and my email is j.w.monroehotmail.com and my cell is (847) 302-8802
I do know he has went through individual wires wire by wire and tested continuity, he has tested numerous relays, pins on the harnesses, and all 5 different switches.
I do have additional aftermarket electronics hooked up:
- Alipine IVA-W505 Head Unit
- Alpine NVE-P1 Navigation
- Alpine PDX 1.1000 Amp (2)
- Alpine PDX 4.150 Amp
- Alpine SWX-143D Subs (2)
- Alipine SPX-17PRO (2 Sets)
- PAC 7 Trigger (for the headunit, to enable video playback while car is
moving), spliced into headunit 12v wire for power
- S7 speedometer cluster, spliced into factory cigarette lighter for power.
- Stinger 15 Farad Capacitor
- Singer SHD841 Midi Fused Distribution Block
- Stinger SP2150 (Main Battery)
- Power Bastards Fitzall 220+ Alternator
- 0 Gauge power ran from alternator to battery, 0 Gauge ground ran from
battery to car frame, 0 gauge power ran from battery to capacitor, 0 gauge
ground ran from capacitor to frame, 0 gauge power ran from capactior to
midi fused distribution block (4 fuses 175amps), 4 gauge power ran from
distribution block to amps, 4 gauge ground ran from amps to car frame
Thank you for taking the time to read this and/or contact us,
#340 of 410 Re: Major electrical problems, 20+ hrs in 3 shops, nobody knows the problem [jmonroe0914]
Jan 30, 2010 (5:12 pm)
The relays on the right side behind the glove box are for the ECU and the AT trans. The way that they might be operating while using the door locks could be feed back and or a confused multiplex unit. As technology grows, so does the list of computer software glitches or bugs, and vulnerability to low- and high-voltage spikes, static electricity, ultraviolet light, strong magnetic fields, radio waves, radar, and even good old lightning.
Do a battery cable reset by disconnecting the positive and negative battery cables and touching them together for 15 minutes with the ignition switch turned to ON (II). A battery cable reset forces all capacitors in that component to discharge faster, and it clears and resets the computer memory. If a software glitch is the culprit, a battery cable reset will fix the problem just as effectively as installing a new component would. Before you do this procedure though, make sure the battery has a full charge. A low battery can cause electronic components to not work right or not work at all.
If that doesnt work then it would be nice to know if you have any multiplex codes or issues using the mode 1 and 2 diag. I will try and e-mail you the procedure if you need it...
I know you dont want to hear it but most of these problems are usally related to aftermarket installs as ECM's and multiplex units are very sensitive to their reference voltages and can be damaged if not correct..But lets see if you can work around it..
#341 of 410 Re: Major electrical problems, 20+ hrs in 3 shops, nobody knows the problem [jmonroe0914]
Jan 30, 2010 (5:27 pm)
If not already done by your tech you may also want to check each and every connector on the fuse box front and back side to make sure they are all securely fastened and have no bent terminals. I have found several of those kind of issues over the years.
The power windows are not sent through the multiplex in that year so that might be the best system to try and diag first and may lead to a connector that might have an issue. Have your guy trace power from underhood fuse box to under dash to main window switch and see where he looses power...If done already what were the results?
Mar 26, 2010 (9:06 am)
2001 Honda Civic DX: Any ideas as to how to find out why the driverside floor gets wet when it rains? the rest of the car is dry.
Thanks for the response.
#343 of 410 Re: 2001 honda civic radiator! BreakDown! [brandonpitt2]
Apr 06, 2010 (9:35 pm)
ckeck you radiator fan makes sure it turns on, especially when your on a stop and idle . and if you did change the thermostat make sure the gasket is on right and its facing the right side
#344 of 410 Re: 99 Honda Civic engine completely down while driving [itmatters1975]
Apr 09, 2010 (4:54 pm)
Check oxigen sensor. I've had same problem and fixed it. At dealers shop it cost me $380. Try find better place, I paid to much.