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Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

360 messages,  Last post on May 15, 2013 at 6:16 PM

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What is this discussion about? Pontiac Grand Prix, Engine, Sedan

    
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Messages Page 31 of 37

#296 of 360 Re: 2004 Pontiac GTP stalling starting issue [morgan71] by sylvester2000

Apr 11, 2012 (11:25 pm)

Replying to: morgan71 (Apr 11, 2012 8:42 pm)
2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8 non-supercharged engine was randomly stalling when at operating temperature, at any speed, at any rpm, or idling. Ran well when it ran, but RPMs would randomly drop to zero and the engine would stall. Worsening occaisional no-start condition with no spark. All power in the vehicle remained on. Sometimes would start right back up and other times would not start for 3-30 mins.
No check engine light and so no codes to pull. No traction light issues which sometimes occur when the crankshaft position sensor is failing. I didn't want to change the crankshaft position sensor because, quite frankly, it sucks. Changed the ignition control module. No change. Changed plugs and wires with no change. Finally decided to change the CPS. After much research and finding conflicting information I compiled a procedure with just the truthful parts I found and it worked beautifully and the car runs perfectly now. The CPS on these cars fail. If you have decided to change yours out it is a $35 part and is DIY with the proper information, which follows, some ingenuity, and some mechanical apptitude:
Jack and secure car. Remove passenger side tire and the plastic wheel well. The clips will probably break, so buy new ones at a hardware store later. Number and remove spark plug wires from the ignition control module so the car won't start. Remove the center bolt (15/16th inch head) from the harmonic balancer. Easiest way to do this without a doubt is to postion a flat wrench on the bolt, rest the boxed end of the wrench on the car frame in front of the harmonic balancer, and tap the starter. Remember to disable the car from starting. Bolt will break loose. To pull off the harmonic balancer use a standard harmonic balancer puller, but you will need special grade 8 bolts and washers. 1/4-28 bolts, 3" long, one inch of thread is o.k. Place a short 3/8" extension in the crank bolt hole to protect the threads. Carefully, by hand, thread the specialty bolts through the puller and into the 3 holes on the balancer that seemingly have no threads. The threads are farther in and not visible. Make sure the bolts are straight, and inserted to an even depth into the harmonic balancer. Use washers or the bolt heads will gouge and pull through the puller. I turned my specialty bolts 15 quarter turns into the harmonic balancer. Turn the puller's main bolt that it is pushing on the 3/8"extension you placed in the crank bolt's hole. Balancer came right out/off. Remove crankshaft position sensor shield. Mine was plastic. Spread the teeth that connect the shield to its bolts with a small standard screwdriver and pull/pry just a bit. No reason to remove the shield from the bolt farthest towards the rear of the car. You'll be using thread glue on the main bolt when you put in in so you can use some of that on the shield where it connects if you mess up the plastic teeth on the shield a bit. Remove the old sensor's two bolts, and save the part to torture in fire later. Bolt in new sensor, replace shield. Line up the harmonic balancer with its cotter key deal and start pulling the balancer back on with a torque wrench. To keep the engine from turning open the smalll access hole to the flywheel on the bottom of the car (two bolts). Place vicegrips on the flywheel or wedge something in the teeth. Tighten your glued main bolt to 112 lbs plus 76 degrees. You now have a car you can count on and need not worry about it dying while driving down the road. I love mine now. Just wish someone would have made these all inclusive and accurate directions for me.

#297 of 360 stalling/starting issue by morgan71

Apr 12, 2012 (9:11 pm)

Hello all,
 
well I figured out what my problem was with my car starting and stalling out. It was one of the connectors to my fuel pump. The connector with the four plug connection, a couple of the wires were loose. I simply went to a pull a part yard, found another connector just like it, spliced the wires and crimped em together and tadaa...it fired right up like a champ and has been running smooth and good as new all day. So anyone else that may be having this problem, check the connector to your fuel pump as well. You can let down your rear seat, lift the trunk liner and you'll see the cover with 6 screws, this is where your pump is and is easily acccessible. Hope this helps.

#298 of 360 press request by kirstie_h HOST

Apr 16, 2012 (11:07 am)

An automotive organization would like to speak with used car buyers who bought cars that they later found out were not up to date on recall repairs. If you are willing to discuss your experience, please email PRedmunds.com no later than 10 a.m. Pacific /1 p.m. Eastern Friday, April 20, 2012 with your daytime contact information.

#299 of 360 Re: 2004 Pontiac GTP stalling starting issue [fastredgtp] by morgan71

Apr 16, 2012 (11:17 am)

Replying to: fastredgtp (Apr 11, 2012 8:26 pm)
well I figured out what my problem was with my car starting and stalling out. It was one of the connectors to my fuel pump. The connector with the four plug connection, a couple of the wires were loose. I simply went to a pull a part yard, found another connector just like it, spliced the wires and crimped em together and tadaa...it fired right up like a champ and has been running smooth and good as new all day. So anyone else that may be having this problem, check the connector to your fuel pump as well. You can let down your rear seat, lift the trunk liner and you'll see the cover with 6 screws, this is where your pump is and is easily acccessible. Hope this helps.

#300 of 360 Cylinder #2 at 30 psi by shar0513

Apr 16, 2012 (8:18 pm)

I have an 03 Grand Prix that started making this lovely noise while I was on the freeway, the check eniine light came on, and it wouldn't get above 45, seemed to not be getting any power. I had a mobile mechanic look at it and he hooked his computer up to it. He says it's cyhlinder #2, and after a compression test, he says it's a 30 psi. Anyone else have this problem or have any thoughts? I have been told I am looking at $1500 in repairs.

#301 of 360 Re: Cylinder #2 at 30 psi [shar0513] by morgan71

Apr 17, 2012 (6:57 am)

Replying to: shar0513 (Apr 16, 2012 8:18 pm)
Oh wow. Sorry to hear that. Hmmm...I would say try to get a 2nd opinion just in case. If I may ask what kind of sound was it making? If it is the # 2 cylinder, this can be a very expensive job as they will need to get into the internal part of the engine. Here's hoping it may be something else less expensive and worrysome.

#302 of 360 2007 Grand Prix won't start by darlaj

Apr 30, 2012 (1:26 pm)

I have a 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix with 49,000 miles. At first the car would just die while driving, like someone unplugged or cut off the engine, no codes, no warnings, nothing. After the car would sit for two or three days it would start, run fine for a week or two and do the same thing. Took the car in several times to a GM mechanic, at first they could not duplicate the problem but when it finally happened to them they first replaced the ignition module, same thing happened again, then the crank sensor module, shaft whatever it's called was replaced, same thing happened again. Now the car won't start at all and "computer system failure" is popping up......can anyone tell me whats wrong?

#303 of 360 Bad ground connection or computer by ls14ever

Apr 30, 2012 (9:43 pm)

First things first. If there's a no start condition but the engine is trying to start. First a good diagnostic mechanic would inspect for ignition spark and fuel delivery. If one of the two is not functioning correctly that's why there's a no start. If there's no spark I would check the ignition coils. If there's no fuel I would check the fuel pump. Does your car have a alarm system? That could also cause the no start. Without no check engine light or codes the mechanic has to go to the basics. A lot of young mechanics with out trouble codes to direct them to the problem are lost. Those kind of mechanics will start installing parts guessing if that's the problem. No diagnostics or confirmation of failed part as you already experienced by a so called GM mechanic. Don't forget if you get that call you need this part your first question is how did you diagnosis the problem. Write down what he said he did to confirm a failed part and get back to me.

#304 of 360 Re: 2007 Grand Prix won't start [darlaj] by gmcustsvcsarah

May 01, 2012 (6:12 am)

Replying to: darlaj (Apr 30, 2012 1:26 pm)
darlaj,
I'm sorry to see that your dealership is perhaps having a bit of difficulty in locating the root of the concern. If we can follow up with them, please email us at socialmediagm.com with more information (include your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, the name of your dealership and appointment details on visits pertaining to the no-start concern).
Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

#305 of 360 Re: 2007 Grand Prix won't start [gmcustsvcsarah] by prochie

May 01, 2012 (7:48 am)

Replying to: gmcustsvcsarah (May 01, 2012 6:12 am)
STAY AWAY from the dealerships they will fleece you for parts and not resolve the issue.
 
Check the ground cable near the battery. Typically, there is build up on the copper eye that is bolted to the frame. Remove the cable from the frame, sand it down to remove the build-up, bolt it back onto the frame, and paint with rust proof paint. There is another ground cable attached to the engine but I routinely just check the one by the battery. If you want a pic, I can send those. Try this before replacing sensors, etc.
 
The throttle body also gets significant build-up but this wouldn't keep you from starting - just rough idle. Your issue sound more electrical / ground related.
 
My 2005 Grand Prix had the same issue. SIX GM dealerships couldn't tell me why my vehicle would go dead flying down the highway with no gas, pwoer steering, or instrumentation. My initial dealership was Roy Foss in Woodbridge - what a bunch dishonest crooks. I hope they lost their dealership in the cuts. I would buy another GM Vehicle but for my experience with these dealerships. Buy FORD next time they appear to know what they are doing.

Messages Page 31 of 37

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