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Coupes & Convertibles Honda Accord Coupe Honda Accord Coupe Electrical problems
30 messages, Last post on Mar 30, 2009 at 11:27 AM
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I have owned my 2003 Honda Accord Coupe EX since January 2003, until 2005 I had no significant problems. I haven't seen any discussions related to this, so I am checking to see if others have had these types of experiences: First, I started having trouble with the rear defrost failing. Each time I took into the dealer, the problem was fixed, and shortly there after, it would fail. Over the course of the winter this occurred a couple more times, however it now seems to be 100% resolved. The oddest thing was that when the rear defrost wasn’t working my heated seat light for the drivers seat worked, but when the rear defrost was working, the light was not. In early 2006, the passenger automatic door lock stopped working. The dealership replaced the regulator. When I asked why this happened, no one was able to answer, other than “sometimes this happens”. Approx. 6 months later the driver side regulator failed. Again, no real response on why this is occurring. It seems unreasonable to me that a vehicle that is 3 years old would have two regulators fail. Starting in the summer of 2006 my stereo controls on my steering wheel have been inconsistently not working properly. Sometimes when I press the volume down – it goes up. To change the station, occasionally causes the volume to change. Since the problems are inconsistent, I can’t be guaranteed they won’t be working when I take it into the dealer, and therefore I have not reported the problem to date. It should be noted that I do not have any after factory installations. Any ideas or similar issues out there? J |
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I have a 2003 Accord Coupe and I recently have had problems with my brake lights and passenger window. My rear two brake lights stopped working at the same time while the upper middle light still works. I check the bulbs and they appear to be OK. Also, my passenger window stopped working. The driver and passenger switches won't roll the window up, but the wireless key entry will roll the windows down. I replaced the passenger side window motor fuse (fuse #26 under dash) and the problem still exists. Also, the indicator light on the passenger and driver side switch does not work. Are either or both of these problems fuses or something more serious? Thanks |
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All three main brake lights out - the two in the taillights and the one on the deck in the back window. Everything else works: Hazard, turn, night lighting, backup. The brake light in the optional spoiler works, too, which would indicate that the sensor at the pedal is okay. All bulbs are okay. Can't find any fuses marked "Brake." Ideas? |
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| My daughter has a 2000 Honda Accord. As stated in title, third brake light works but those in the left and right lens assemblies do not. Fuze is good and new bulbs have been installed. No lights, however. Also on the brake light indicator on the instrument panel, the light indicates that the brake lights are working (goes out after initial check at startup). Thanks! | |
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Alright, hopefully this helps someone else out; I had to compile info from multiple sites to figure this out. Car: 2003 Honda Accord 4cyl 2/dr coupe NOTE: Should be the same for any model Accord around this same generation. Primary Problem: Wife's car will not shift from park. Button on the center console shifter depresses maybe half way, but will not release the gear lock. Car is stuck. Secondary Problem: Investigation reveals that all three rear brake lights are not working. (previously worked fine) All fuses checked and are fine. Diagnosis: A part called a "break light switch" or "stop light switch" has gone bad. This part tells your car when you press your break, thus activating your lights and also telling your transmission that the car is in a braked positioned, and is safe to be shifted out of park. The Fix: Step One: First, if you need to move your car (like I did from Walgreens parking lot). There is a small plastic tab on the upper left side of the shifter face. (just northwest of the "P" for park) This is the shift lock override. Use a piece of cloth to protect the plastic and stick a flat screwdriver in the open slot and pry the plastic tab out. Now, take your car key, shove it in the hole, thus releasing your shifter. Now put the car in neutral and depress the brake (obviously). Now put the key in the ignition and start the car. Put it in drive and go. (have someone follow you. remember, you have no break lights which is a major safety hazard, as well as a traffic violaion) NOTE: If the shift lock overide doesn't work you may have a bad cable running from the shifter to the tranny. See a trained mechanic for this. Step 2: Get under your steering column near your pedals. You'll need to pull out the plastic protective cover (pretty easy, it's just snaps in and out of place) Follow the brake pedal's arm up. About 3/4 the way up, you'll see a plastic piece with a plunger on the end, that depresses when the brake is un depressed. It's about a 2 inch part with a fat end that a wiring hub plugs into. Unhook the wires (press tabs and pull). Now grab the fat end and twist it (clockwise *I think) about 1/4 of a turn and it will release from it's plastic mounting piece. Step 3: Pick up or order a "stop light switch" from your local auto store (cost me $11.88+tax at Advance Auto Parts). NOTE: The ordered part may look different that the original, which worried me at first too, but it's fine as long as you order the part for your car's specific specs. Step 4: Back under the dash, pop out the plastic mounting piece from the metal part that sits in front of the break pedal arm. You new part has a round "female" part that will insert into this spot. It just snaps into place. Step 5: Plug the new part into the wiring hub. The part recognizes your breaks are activated when the plunger end is out (natural position). So with it just plugged and not installed your brake lights should be activated and if you start the car, it should shift. I'd check this before going farther, to make sure it works. Step 6: Insert the male plunger piece into the female part until the plunger is fully depressed by the brake pedal arm (do not touch the brake pedal, just leave it alone) With the small plunger thing depressed turn the part about 1/4 of a turn (counter-clockwise now *I think) and it will snap into place (with plunger depressed) Step 7: Have someone check your lights while you hit the brake and test the shifter. Assuming it works, put the cover back on and you're good to go (not to mention an extra $150 in dealer labor plus towing charges in your bocket) Cost: $11.88+tax Time: (Had I not had to do 2 hours of research to figure all this out) about 45 minutes from taking out the old to installing the new Difficulty: Easy (and worth it). I'm no mechanic, but consider myself fairly handy, especially with simple tasks. This really wasn't that difficult. Hardest part was getting under the dash in a small 2/dr coupe. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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HAve a 98 accord. While driving, the engine will just die. No warning. Coast to the side of the road and it will restart and I'm on my way. Seems to be worst in rain. Any thoughts??
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Replying to: zek7717 (Jul 18, 2007 1:46 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 18, 2007 6:29 pm)
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Replying to: zek7717 (Jul 18, 2007 6:50 pm) |
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Replying to: ucfphi225 (Jul 09, 2007 1:09 pm) Thanks for saving me the research! I will try that. Just found out that my brake lights weren't working last night and I have been checking fuses and bulbs this afternoon. |
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