Last post on Jan 28, 2013 at 2:40 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
#48 of 71 Re: Transmission ?? [bloch]
Dec 20, 2009 (12:49 am)
I would avoid dropping the pan. I would also avoid power flushing the tranny fluid, as this can cause a lot more damage in the poorly designed Ford tranny's.
What I strongly recommend is to add a Tranny Cooler, since the major reason the tranny fails in the first place is because of heat.
Mazda was taken over by Ford in the late 90's, and used a whole bunch of Ford parts in the 626 line. What they put in the 626 was a poorly designed radiator, which in turn did a really bad job keeping the Tranny Fluid, which runs through the radiator (in a separate area) cool.
Ford quielty changed the Radiator after 2001/2002 after they recieved a whole bunch of legal complaints. The problem almost became a recall issue, but, since the did not produce a whole bunch of 626 automatics (mostly Manual's) just fell short of the government taking legal action.
They told the dealers to simple replace the radiator and/or install an aux tranny cooler to fix the problem.
So, as a 1998 626 owner with a tranny that slips, the best advice I can give is to slowly switch the tranny fluid to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, FOUR "4" quarts at a time.
Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).
A Manual flush consists of jacking the car (on ramps) and disconnecting the return to the tranny, placing the end of the hose in a bucket.
I recommend changing 4 quarts at a time, every few thousand at three equal intervals (Say every 3000 miles) untill most, if not all the fluid is Synthetic.
You should notice a sligh difference the first 4 quarts (Less Harder Shifts), which will slowly (over the frist 1000 miles or so) loose it effectiveness as the tranny fluid in the torque convert mixes with the Synthetic.
I got an extra 20,000 miles (so far) out of a tranny that was slipping and causing the fail safe mode to trigger since I added a Tranny Cooler and Manual Flushed the fluid to Synthetic.
Hope this helps.
#49 of 71 Re: Transmission ?? [bloch]
Feb 18, 2010 (5:40 pm)
I have a 1990 626 DX 4 cylinder 2.2L, it has an auto trans in it. It never works quite right due to an oil pump which was subsequently re-designed after about 1995 I believe. Anyway, I serviced it by changing the fluid several times, and finally the fluid and FILTER, but also ADJUSTING THE BAND inside the pan when I did so. I also used a cleaning agent in the fluid for a while, but drained it in less than a few months, as transmission fluid cleaning agents DO damage seals as well as clutch bands, but can loosen deposits, which is good. There is one that is the safest to use called Trans Tune by Seafoam. After all of this, the transmission is noticably better, however, it still has intermittant issues due to the poor design of the oil pump, still, I would have had to get rid of the car if I hadn't done all of that to it. One problem is, the transmission pan is hard to remove on these cars(the crossmember has to come off, after disconnecting the balljoint) BAND ADJUSTMENT IS KEY IN OLDER CARS.
#50 of 71 Re: 626 slipping [alexmbj]
Mar 08, 2010 (4:08 pm)
did u ever figure out problem with ur 626 slipping then after u cut it off and back on it goes again i have exact same problem please email me at jason_ulicnikyahoo.comand let me know i know its been a while thanks in advance
#51 of 71 mazda auto trans
Mar 12, 2010 (6:45 pm)
can any one tell me if any other auto transmissions can go in a 1999 mazda 626 with a 2.0. I know some ford will fit some mazdas anyone know
#52 of 71 626 transmission
Mar 29, 2010 (1:57 pm)
I have a 99 626 2 liter With the auto trans...99,000 on it..I really like this car a lot and want to keep it..The engine is tight as a drum..I use Pennzoil platinum 5W-30 and it doesn't use a drop between changes..I've upgraded to Bosch platinum 2 plugs and it runs well..But I am worried about the tranny..After all I've read about how bad this tranny is..Is there any way to keep it alive..I've pulled the drain plug and the fluid is dark but didn't smell burned.It appears that I can only change about three and a half quarts at a time..I would like to replace all of the fluid with synthetic and put some pro-long in it..There have been no real problems so far, although the od light has flashed on occasion..Any suggestions..???
#53 of 71 Re: 626 transmission [johnr16]
Mar 29, 2010 (5:55 pm)
The two major things you need to do is:
1.) Install a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).
2.) Drain and fill the Transmission with a good synthetic transmission fluid.
The second step is the most dangerous, since it will require you to manually drain the fluid a few pints at a time, and switch to the synthetic over time. You do not want to power flush the transmission.
I REPEAT - DO NOT POWER FLUSH THE TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!
A lot of dealers, and oil change centers will try and sell you on a power flush. This is a very bad idea unless you have owned the car since new, and have power flushed the transmission several times before.
The older the car gets (90,000+ Miles), the more buildup aquires. When you power flush, all this built up grime gets loose, ending up either gumming the seals or clogging the filter (In a 99 Mazda, it is a non rreplaceable simple metal screen).
Nothing will kill the Mazda's 626 Automatic Tranmission than clogging up these values and screens. Also, it is very important on an older transmission is to not remove the pan (unless it is leaking around the seals).
I REPEAT - DO NOT REMOVE THE PAN.
Since you will only want to change out a few quarts the first time, it will be safer to either remove the drain plug, or to remove the rubber line going to the transmission cooler.
Here is some instructions that i used from another forum, provided by Mad Hatter in Wisconsin.
Gentle Flush your Mazda Automatic Transmission.
Large pan for draining
5-7 1/2 gallon milk jugs
8-10 inch piece of 1/2"(?)I.D. hose
ATF Dexron III fluid 8-12qts.
Extra set of hands
Wrench(17mm I think)
First, jack up the front end and install jack stands(don't forget to pull the E-brake). Make sure the oil is warm, and remove the plug from the rear of the transmission pan, careful not to spill(comes out very quick), you'll want to measure the amount that comes out. Drain in to a large pan of some sort. When the flow has stopped, reinstall the plug(22-30ft-lbs). Now measure the amount of oil drained(I recommend using some half gallon milk jugs), install your transmission funnel, and add that much back in to the transmission through the dipstick tube.
Now remove the line as shown in the pic, and let that drain in to a container(there shouldn't really be enough to measure). Now install the piece of short hose over the nipple coming out of the cooler, and run the open end in to a 1/2 gallon jug. Have a friend start the car, this will push the fluid through the cooler and out the hose in to the jug. When the jug is half full(or just before), turn the car off. You still get a little running out, but for the mostpart, flow should stop once the engine has. Now you can add 1 qt through the dipstick tube. Then again, start the engine, and measure out another qt, turn the engine off, and add 1 qt. Repeat this cycle, until you have good clean fluid showing up in the jugs.
Our transmission holds 7.8qts. I had good clean fluid by the time I had added 8qts. You should be able to tell fairly easily.
Once you feel that you have good clean fluid(you can flush an extra couple of qts if you want, just to be sure), reinstall the cooler line, let the car back down and run the engine for a while. Now follow the recommended procedure for checking the fluid level for your operating range, and add or remove as necessary(I had to remove about a pint, and just drained it through the cooler again).
Best of luck, and be sure to search the internet for similar instructions. I also have a post earlier in this thread that deals with similar issues.
#54 of 71 Re: 626 transmission [kfpfla]
Mar 29, 2010 (8:01 pm)
Thanks for the information~ very helpful.. I didn't know much about this car when I bought it..Bought it in Nevada and drove it cross country to Ohio where I now live.I really like this car although not the smoothest or most powerful .. It has been well taken care of..I hope to get a couple of hundred K out of it..The tranny does scare me though..Right now I don't have any facilities so I'm going to keep pulling the drain plug and changing 3.5 qts at a time every 500 to 600 miles...Mobil 1 synthetic .. 2 or three times and then I'm going to put a pint of pro- long in it..Had good luck with this stuff..Thanks again...!!
#55 of 71 Mobil 1 synthetic trans. fld
Mar 31, 2010 (2:17 pm)
Went shopping today for the mobil 1 , hard to find.. I only found one store that had it. Didn't buy it because it said multi-vehicle formula..Not sure if there are other formulas or not..Checked the Mobil website, but didn't find much info..Can I use this?
P.S Pricey... 9 bucks a quart at auto zone..Oh well it will be worth it to keep my trans. alive.
#56 of 71 2001 Mazda 626 Shifter shifts freely
Apr 19, 2010 (4:37 pm)
I have a 2001 Mazda 626 that has been running fine, the car cranked right up but the shifter was not engaging. I could go from P to 1 like it was air. I had a friend manually put it in reverse, then drive so I could get home. Its at the shop now and the mechanic says it is the plastic peice in the shifter part that is stripped. The problem is, it looks like a 10 cent part, but the Mazda dealership wants 175 for the whole shift cable. Is there an easier fix to this?
#57 of 71 1999 Mazda 626 transmission problem
May 05, 2010 (8:51 pm)
I have one that won't go above 30 MPH. I'm guessing that the veins or valves are clogged? I don't know much about transmissions but I saw where a member (kfpfla) said do not flush it or remove the pan. I just donít see how I can get it unclogged with out doing either. Any ideas or suggestions? I canít afford to have it rebuilt. Thanks