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#44 of 71 Re: [alanbiogen] Did u ever get your engine light off? [mlbscouting] by bt100

Nov 03, 2009 (2:33 pm)

Replying to: mlbscouting (Jan 23, 2009 7:48 am)

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#45 of 71 Are 2001/2002 safe? by FlashMagnuM

Dec 01, 2009 (1:48 pm)

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#46 of 71 Transmission ?? by bloch

Dec 18, 2009 (4:47 pm)

Replies to this message:

• bloch (Dec 19, 2009 9:44 pm)
  • puttering (Feb 18, 2010 5:40 pm)
• kfpfla (Dec 20, 2009 12:49 am)

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#47 of 71 Re: Transmission ?? [bloch] by bloch

Dec 19, 2009 (9:44 pm)

Replying to: bloch (Dec 18, 2009 4:47 pm)

Replies to this message:

• puttering (Feb 18, 2010 5:40 pm)

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#48 of 71 Re: Transmission ?? [bloch] by kfpfla

Dec 20, 2009 (12:49 am)

Replying to: bloch (Dec 18, 2009 4:47 pm)

I would avoid dropping the pan. I would also avoid power flushing the tranny fluid, as this can cause a lot more damage in the poorly designed Ford tranny's.
 
What I strongly recommend is to add a Tranny Cooler, since the major reason the tranny fails in the first place is because of heat.
 
Mazda was taken over by Ford in the late 90's, and used a whole bunch of Ford parts in the 626 line. What they put in the 626 was a poorly designed radiator, which in turn did a really bad job keeping the Tranny Fluid, which runs through the radiator (in a separate area) cool.
 
Ford quielty changed the Radiator after 2001/2002 after they recieved a whole bunch of legal complaints. The problem almost became a recall issue, but, since the did not produce a whole bunch of 626 automatics (mostly Manual's) just fell short of the government taking legal action.
 
They told the dealers to simple replace the radiator and/or install an aux tranny cooler to fix the problem.
 
So, as a 1998 626 owner with a tranny that slips, the best advice I can give is to slowly switch the tranny fluid to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, FOUR "4" quarts at a time.
 
Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).
 
A Manual flush consists of jacking the car (on ramps) and disconnecting the return to the tranny, placing the end of the hose in a bucket.
 
I recommend changing 4 quarts at a time, every few thousand at three equal intervals (Say every 3000 miles) untill most, if not all the fluid is Synthetic.
 
You should notice a sligh difference the first 4 quarts (Less Harder Shifts), which will slowly (over the frist 1000 miles or so) loose it effectiveness as the tranny fluid in the torque convert mixes with the Synthetic.
 
I got an extra 20,000 miles (so far) out of a tranny that was slipping and causing the fail safe mode to trigger since I added a Tranny Cooler and Manual Flushed the fluid to Synthetic.
 
Hope this helps.

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#49 of 71 Re: Transmission ?? [bloch] by puttering

Feb 18, 2010 (5:40 pm)

Replying to: bloch (Dec 19, 2009 9:44 pm)

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#50 of 71 Re: 626 slipping [alexmbj] by jasonulicnik

Mar 08, 2010 (4:08 pm)

Replying to: alexmbj (Nov 27, 2007 2:10 pm)

did u ever figure out problem with ur 626 slipping then after u cut it off and back on it goes again i have exact same problem please email me at jason_ulicnikyahoo.comand let me know i know its been a while thanks in advance

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#51 of 71 mazda auto trans by saj4922

Mar 12, 2010 (6:45 pm)

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• cbcarolina (Oct 19, 2010 11:30 pm)

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#52 of 71 626 transmission by johnr16

Mar 29, 2010 (1:57 pm)

Replies to this message:

• kfpfla (Mar 29, 2010 5:55 pm)
  • johnr16 (Mar 29, 2010 8:01 pm)

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#53 of 71 Re: 626 transmission [johnr16] by kfpfla

Mar 29, 2010 (5:55 pm)

Replying to: johnr16 (Mar 29, 2010 1:57 pm)

Hello johnr16,
 
The two major things you need to do is:
 
1.) Install a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).
  
2.) Drain and fill the Transmission with a good synthetic transmission fluid.
 
The second step is the most dangerous, since it will require you to manually drain the fluid a few pints at a time, and switch to the synthetic over time. You do not want to power flush the transmission.
 
I REPEAT - DO NOT POWER FLUSH THE TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!
 
A lot of dealers, and oil change centers will try and sell you on a power flush. This is a very bad idea unless you have owned the car since new, and have power flushed the transmission several times before.
 
The older the car gets (90,000+ Miles), the more buildup aquires. When you power flush, all this built up grime gets loose, ending up either gumming the seals or clogging the filter (In a 99 Mazda, it is a non rreplaceable simple metal screen).
 
Nothing will kill the Mazda's 626 Automatic Tranmission than clogging up these values and screens. Also, it is very important on an older transmission is to not remove the pan (unless it is leaking around the seals).
 
I REPEAT - DO NOT REMOVE THE PAN.
 
Since you will only want to change out a few quarts the first time, it will be safer to either remove the drain plug, or to remove the rubber line going to the transmission cooler.
 
Here is some instructions that i used from another forum, provided by Mad Hatter in Wisconsin.
 
Gentle Flush your Mazda Automatic Transmission.
 
Items needed-

Large pan for draining
5-7 1/2 gallon milk jugs
8-10 inch piece of 1/2"(?)I.D. hose
Transmission funnel
ATF Dexron III fluid 8-12qts.
Extra set of hands
Wrench(17mm I think)

 
First, jack up the front end and install jack stands(don't forget to pull the E-brake). Make sure the oil is warm, and remove the plug from the rear of the transmission pan, careful not to spill(comes out very quick), you'll want to measure the amount that comes out. Drain in to a large pan of some sort. When the flow has stopped, reinstall the plug(22-30ft-lbs). Now measure the amount of oil drained(I recommend using some half gallon milk jugs), install your transmission funnel, and add that much back in to the transmission through the dipstick tube.
 
Now remove the line as shown in the pic, and let that drain in to a container(there shouldn't really be enough to measure). Now install the piece of short hose over the nipple coming out of the cooler, and run the open end in to a 1/2 gallon jug. Have a friend start the car, this will push the fluid through the cooler and out the hose in to the jug. When the jug is half full(or just before), turn the car off. You still get a little running out, but for the mostpart, flow should stop once the engine has. Now you can add 1 qt through the dipstick tube. Then again, start the engine, and measure out another qt, turn the engine off, and add 1 qt. Repeat this cycle, until you have good clean fluid showing up in the jugs.
 
Our transmission holds 7.8qts. I had good clean fluid by the time I had added 8qts. You should be able to tell fairly easily.
 
Once you feel that you have good clean fluid(you can flush an extra couple of qts if you want, just to be sure), reinstall the cooler line, let the car back down and run the engine for a while. Now follow the recommended procedure for checking the fluid level for your operating range, and add or remove as necessary(I had to remove about a pint, and just drained it through the cooler again).
 
Best of luck, and be sure to search the internet for similar instructions. I also have a post earlier in this thread that deals with similar issues.

Replies to this message:

• johnr16 (Mar 29, 2010 8:01 pm)