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Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626 Transmission Questions
44 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 1:33 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: mikemichel (Nov 20, 2006 4:17 pm) |
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| Clutch has seemingly failed at about 145,000. It failed at about 90,000 and had it replaced for $900. New mechanic in new city wants $450 to take apart transmission which he says has to be done anyway to replace clutch and then about another $750 to replace clutch. Does this make sense? Can the trans fail but not the clutch? Why not just replace the clutch? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks. | |
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Hi, all- Please, can someone can offer some insight as to whether my ex-wife’s 626 transmission is shot, or not? She has the ’96 626, 2.0 4 cyl, auto- (I took a look under it, and there isn’t a bottom pan for the trans, the pan is upright on the side. Is this the CD4E?) What it’s doing is this: Crank it, hot or cold, put it in any gear, and it pulls normally for 30 or 40 yards, and then the transmission starts slipping bad, then no pull at all. The engine just revs (sort of like it’s real low on fluid). You can stop and put it in any gear, and it won't pull at all. But- I found if you turn off the engine for just 5 seconds, then crank it again and put it in any gear, it will pull strong and normally-- for 30 or 40 yards, until it slips again. I checked the trans fluid level, and it’s risen above the normal range where it was recently when I checked, and now shows as overfull on the dipstick, like an inch and a half past the don't add mark. The fluid does look a bit dark, not real red, but doesn’t really smell burnt to me. There’s 140,000 miles on the car. At first I thought the transmission was shot, but the way it pulls strong after the engine’s off for a few seconds has me mystified. Can anyone please say what might be happening here, and whether it’s worth it to try changing the filter and fluid? All help very much appreciated! Thank you- Alex B PS- Now I see that the filter is deep inside this transmission-- dang.
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The car jerks when it get hot and intermittantly shifts. Diagnosis show bad trans range switch. for $300. and they would fix and maybe that would fix problem. Does anyone know what indicated a bad trans range switch or could it be another sensor. You have to go at least 50 miles over 60mpm on hwy before it happens. Thanks Ernie
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Replying to: alexmbj (Nov 27, 2007 1:10 pm) |
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| from the sounds of it i'm having the same problem as a few others. 2000 mazda 626 4 cyl. auto transmission. my transmission will shift out of overdrive and back into over drive rather hard when i'm maintaining speed of about 50-60 miles an hour. if i take over drive off and slow down to about 40-45 the problem goes away for a little bit but it'll start doing it again after driving around for a while. the problem doesnt happen untill the car gets warm and has been driven for about 20-30 min. the check engine light came on and i had them read the code and it came back trans range switch output high.i went to the dealer ship and paid and ordered the transmission range switch so i'm hoping that it'll fix it. does any one have any advice or helpfull tips for installing that switch. i'm a back yard mechanic and don't have a lot of fancy tools but it's my only car and i need this problem fixed. please let me know if you guys can think of anything helpful to me. thank you guys | |
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Replying to: bkristeller (May 08, 2008 9:15 am) |
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| Ok here is my problem i have a 1995 626 lx with a 2.0 and a cd4e tranny when i start the car or anytime for that matter and put it into drive with the overdrive on it does not go into drive with out giving it some throttle if i turn the overdrive off and put it into drive it will jump into drive after a few seconds of waiting if i am driving down the road going about 20 and turn the overdrive on it jumps out of gear i turn the od back off and it goes back into gear anyone have any comments to make as to what it may be the car has 172000km on it and no after market tranny cooler | |
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Forgot to add if i have the overdrive on and force it to drive by giving it gas the overdrive off light will start blinking and if i am driving down the road with the overdrive on and come to a stop it will jump out of gear when i get to about 5 km/hour my wife also added the radiator fan seems to be coming on alot more than it used to |
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Replying to: eharing (Dec 04, 2007 4:20 pm) One quick question: Does the O/D light Flash when on extended highway trips? If it does, you may have a "known" Mazda Service Issue. My 1998, Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl 2.0 had a very similar issue that happened only after driving at highway speeds for about an 70 minutes. I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission. When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode… (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI). It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.) A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission." It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid. Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers). Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative). Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions. You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.) I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic. Good Luck
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