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Infiniti G35 Engine Break In

68 messages,  Last post on Dec 05, 2008 at 10:36 PM

You are in the Infiniti G35 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Infiniti G35, Sedan

Messages Page 4 of 7

#29 of 68 Re: Breaking Period in or Not..... [alanroseman] by scottm123

Mar 22, 2007 (6:16 am)

Replying to: alanroseman (Mar 22, 2007 5:11 am)
I visited a dealership in Warwick, RI and drove an 07 G35x, Black on Black, as my tester.
We didn't just drive that thing. We beat on it. I was actually surprised at what the salesman had me doing. He really wanted to show the seemingly limitless abilities of this vehicle, and did just that.
It was an awesome 45 mintue test drive.
I honestly hope your car witnessed calmer test drives than mine.
 
I called my salesman 2 weeks later and said let's do it, I want one.
Blue Slate on Black with the Tech and wood trim packages are next to impossible to find. I was asked if I wanted to wait or take a car with 300-400 miles on it.
I chose to wait.
 
2 days later, he found an unsold one on the boat coming in, and my 6 week wait turned into a 2 week wait.
 
One week to go....

#30 of 68 Black on Black Warwick by alanroseman

Mar 22, 2007 (7:08 am)

Did the Black on Black you drove in Warwick have NAV and wood trim?

#31 of 68 Re: Breaking Period in or Not..... [scottm123] by alanroseman

Mar 22, 2007 (7:11 am)

Replying to: scottm123 (Mar 22, 2007 6:16 am)
I'd like to know when you had your test drive (date) I getting a little nervous that I bought that tester.
 
As I asked earlier, did the terster you drove have wood trim and NAV?

#32 of 68 Re: Black on Black Warwick [alanroseman] by scottm123

Mar 22, 2007 (9:29 am)

Replying to: alanroseman (Mar 22, 2007 7:08 am)
LOL
 
No, it had Aluminum Trim and didn't even have the Premium package.
 
Are you buying from Warwick?
Did you take a trip to the satellite lot?
That driveway (road) is narrow and incredibly curvy.
The salesguy put me in the passenger seat and drove us up that road at 70 MPH.... the car handled it incredibly well.
 
Once out there, I saw the Slate Blue and another car which had the Graphite Interior with Wood Trim.
I was set on color from then on.
 
I do not like the after-market OEM wood trim though... very plastic looking and missing buttons show the aluminum trim underneath... YUCK!
It does not compare to the factory installed African Redwood.

#33 of 68 Re: Synthetic oil [speedcrzr] by smokey75

Mar 22, 2007 (11:25 am)

Replying to: speedcrzr (Mar 22, 2007 1:19 am)
What did you do when you worked for Infiniti? Also, the 2007 G35 calls for the specific Nissan transmission fluid only. Not the usual "or similar"... "or approved."

#34 of 68 Break - in & oil by lurkinmerkin

May 18, 2007 (2:52 pm)

My first post to Edmunds, so forgive me for not reading through prior discussions on this subject.
 
The "break in" of a new vehicle was thoroughly explored in a magazine several years back...I think it was "Corvette Fever". Chevrolet (like virtually all manufacturers) recommends taking it easy for the first 1K miles or so....but the message was for all cars. Here's the bottom line, which I think explains a lot of the mis-information on this subject:
 
The engine itself is mostly broken in when the car is delivered...certainly broken in enough that it won't hurt anything to run it fairly hard. However, the "system" of engine, transmission, U-joints, drive shaft, differential, half-shafts, bearings, axels, etc., have not been broken in as a "system" where all the parts that were built independently are forced to work together. there are some small alignment variables during assembly, so the independent parts need "break in" with each other. So, the reason for being gentle on the car has to do with this "system" getting aligned, worn in, meshed, or whatever you want to call it. You don't want to put a lot of force on the "system" until everthing seats in and works together.
 
That's not say you would do any damage to the car by romping on it immediately. My personal opinion is that some small amount of hot rodding doesn't hurt, and any damage would not show up for many thousands of miles, if ever. But I can't see that it hurts to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, either.
 
As for oil, I've posted widely on this subject in other vehicle forums. The whole subject of waiting for 10K miles or so before converting to synthetics is total BS. I would simply point to the long, and ever increasing list of cars that come from the factory with synthetics and recommend using only synthetics: Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, Viper, and on and on.
 
I'm not going to get into it in this post, but you can think of "synthetics" as very pure oil. You can also think of "conventional oil" as very dirty synthetic. It's all oil; there's no harm in using synthetics in your car from the start, and you will get the benefits of using synthetics, which is mainly thermal stability...the oil doesn't break down under heat as readily as conventional oil.
 
And in closing, I'll add a couple of other comments: 1) There's no industry agreement as to exactly what "synthetic" means, and in fact, there was a lawsuit over this subject some years back, where Mobil lost out. Group III, IV, and V (and soon-to-be VI GTL) base oils are all considered "synthetic"; and 2) The cars with very long change intervals (Porsche 20K miles; Mercedes out to 30K miles, etc.) all use synthetics. However, those oils for European autos are certified to ACEA (European) standards, rather than SAE, IPCEA, or Jaso standards (SL, SM, GF-4, GF-5). You can go to your local Walmart and check it out....the Mobil1 "Extended Performance" oils all meet the ACEA standards (as well as SAE/IPCEA standards), while the regular Mobil1 does not. What you are getting in these "Extended Performance" oils is some extra additives to protect during long change intervals. The Europeans are way ahead of the Americans/Japanese on this subject of extended drain intervals.
 
Any of you can check it out on Google with the various buzz words above, but I'll try to write more later.
 
The Lurkin Merkin

#35 of 68 Re: Break - in & oil [lurkinmerkin] by sportsfan

May 19, 2007 (5:14 pm)

Replying to: lurkinmerkin (May 18, 2007 2:52 pm)
Here is another question for you:
 
Is it true that the only difference between premium and regular gas is that premium burns slower? My friend says he is a ASC mechanic and that I am wasting my money, if i put premium in my 06 g35x; because it runs on regular.
 
Is this true? I've tried both regular and premium. The mileage is pretty much the same. I only get about 200 miles per tank. I have 3627 miles on it so far (bought the car in late november)
 
thanks in advance for your help

#36 of 68 Re: Break - in & oil [lurkinmerkin] by cdnpinhead

May 20, 2007 (5:46 pm)

Replying to: lurkinmerkin (May 18, 2007 2:52 pm)
Thanks for joining in. It's pleasant to read posts from people who actually know what they're talking about & cite sources.
 
There are several other threads that would benefit from your post, some devoted entirely to oil, so if you're that way inclined, you could comment in those as well.
 
The BMW folks are especially anal about this sort of thing, as am I.
 
Thanks again & welcome aboard.

#37 of 68 Re: Break - in & oil [sportsfan] by smokey75

May 21, 2007 (5:58 am)

Replying to: sportsfan (May 19, 2007 5:14 pm)
It doesn't burn slower, but is harder to ignite from compression. The engine in the G is a high compression engine, meaning the pistons compress the mixture of fuel and air more than some before the mixture is ignited by the spark plug. By compressing the mixture more, it makes a bigger "boom" when it does fire, giving more power. Now sometimes with regular fuel the mixture will explode just from compressing it before the spark plug ignites it. This is called pinging, or knocking and this is how a diesel engine works without spark plugs. The octane of a fuel is just a measure of its' resistance to doing this. Higher number octane on the AKI (Anti-Knock Index), the more it can be compressed without knocking. Now the reason you can use regular fuel in the G also is because it has a knock sensor. When it detects knocking it retards the ignition timing, but this gives you less power, and according to some, less MPG. Personally I've never understood why someone would spend $30,000-$40,000 for a SPORTS sedan and then reduce the power to save $.20 per gallon. But that's just my opinion.

#38 of 68 Re: Break - in & oil [smokey75] by yogiowner

May 29, 2007 (6:56 pm)

Replying to: smokey75 (May 21, 2007 5:58 am)
i agree with you that it is not to bright to spend money on a sports sedan, then chince on the gas. I've been putting premium in for the past few months for that very reason.
 
the manual says it takes regular, but i put the premium in. i have a friend who says that premium is a waste of money. however, i think the manufacturer recommends it for a reason.
 
thanks so much for the thorough explanation. Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.
 
i just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).
 
i just love this car.

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