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Vans & Minivans Dodge Sprinter Dodge Sprinter: Starting/Stalling Issues
60 messages, Last post on Oct 20, 2009 at 8:15 AM
You are in the Dodge Sprinter Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Ever since the weather got down into the 20's & 30's, I've been getting a lot of start errors when the engine is cold. After the second start error, it takes about 4 hours for my 2002 Sprinter to reset itself before I can even try again to start it. I thought maybe the anti-theft system wasn't reading the chip in the ignition key because its battery was low, but a Sprinter tech told me there is no battery in the key. He suggested the start errors could be caused by a low vehicle battery, but my battery tests out great. As crazy as it sounds, the problem seems to be connected to low CABIN temperatures. When I leave my RV heater plugged in and heating, I get no start errors even when the engine is cold. Anyone have any ideas what the cause of this is? Thanks! Doug
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Replying to: rchadwick (Nov 15, 2006 9:27 am) Perform this test with the engine at operating temperature. This test will assist in determining a defective or internally leaking injector(s) is present by measuring the amount of fuel return. Turn the ignition off. Remove the engine cover Disconnect the fuel return hoses at the top of the injectors. Pinch off the oil return line. Disconnect the fuel rail solenoid. Install the test vials onto the injectors and secure with the return hose clips(Special Tool # 9545). Start the engine for ten seconds while monitoring each inner test vial. After ten seconds, a maximum of two graduation lines may be reached. If the level has exceeded the two graduation line, replace that effected cylinder's injector, clear the memory using the scan tool and retest. If the level did not pass the two graduation line limit, continue with the diagnostic manual. Hope this will help you. 
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Replying to: kenbaker (Nov 15, 2006 11:14 am) Jim |
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When i turn the key to start pos. at times it takes a couple seconds to turn over or it won't all. The dealer tried a new starter relay but still no fix, so then he installed a button under the dash that turns the starter over but doesn't start the engine, i then turn to the off position and try again with fingers crossed-i repeat 'till it starts eventually. It's an '04 with the 2.7 engine, model 2500. Appreciate any ideas!
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Replying to: onwhidbey (May 02, 2007 6:50 am) |
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After even a brief drive and turn off, the van won't start when we get back in to leave for the next stop. As soon as we turn the key to wait for the glow plug light to go out, the fan starts up and the glow plug light won't go out. The van won't even attempt to start. It has plenty of power, and we've towed it to the dealership 3 times so far. Each time it gets to them, they give it back because they can't duplicate the problem. Anybody?
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I have a 2006 Sprinter that has had all sorts of starting problems; will start sometimes then not at all; won't get any lights on or anything when turning key. Then after 4-5 tries it will work. Also had trouble duplicating problem at dealer. Fixes so far have included: replaced/recoded the electronic keys; replaced control module; replaced battery connector plates. Each time this was supposed to "fix the problem", but after the last "fix" it did it again 2 days later. This time they said it was the Ground Cable from the battery to the engine block. I hope this helps anybody out there. 
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I have a 2003 freightliner with 92,000 miles on it I have had it not start two times in the last couple of weeks, usually cold mornings. the key gets turned on and it will start to bring up the dash diagnostics lights, then it will just go dead. It doesn't finish up the self check and if will not warm the glow-plugs. Turning the key all the way does nothing. I was able to charge the battery and it started both times. We have done some checks and find the water control valve is hot to the touch, and the amp draw is to high with the key off. If I remove the plug to the valve the draw drops but so far I have not had a chance to test it farther. Does anyone have information about what controls this valve? By the way the power to the valve will drop and the valve will cool to the touch if you start the vehicle. Any ideas please let me know. Thanks very much Bob 
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I believe They found my problem. It seems that the engine heater booster is running all the time. We found the water control valve was hot to the touch and removing the plug to it would take the load off the battery. I took it to the dealership after figuring that out myself. At the dealer they checked the system and found the dash switch that controls the heater boost even though it was not lit was still sending a message to the water control valve to turn on. The dealer replaced the whole switch( $400.00+ ) with a new one, second one this year, and all seems to be well. I bought this van used, it had 45,000 miles on it. I have driven it 50,000 miles this year. I have saved lots of money in fuel cost, but the repair bills are killing me. Anyone else having second thoughts about their sprinter purchase?
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Replying to: dayipper (Jul 03, 2007 5:49 am) |
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