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Dodge Sprinter: Starting/Stalling Issues

60 messages,  Last post on Oct 20, 2009 at 8:15 AM

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#56 of 60 sprinter black smoke by upsmech Sep 20, 2009 (8:42 pm)
Hi, Im a fleet mechanic and some of my trucks are 05 sprinters w/2.7l 5 cyl engines. I had one overheat from a broken fan belt and they drove it back to the shop about 20 miles. Din't seam to hurt anything, replaced belt and idler pulley and topped off coolant, ran fine. about a month later (10,000 miles) the driver started complaining about black smoke coming from tail pipe mostly on take offs. Fuel pressure is normal, injector pulse is normal, no restrictions in intake assy. O2 sensor has been changed. I don't no if its related to overheating or not. Any ideas? Replies to this message: sprinterguru (Oct 20, 2009 8:15 am)
#57 of 60 Slick 50 by mr_dj Sep 27, 2009 (3:40 am)
Have any of you tried Slick 50? Works wonders on gas engines. Just a thought.
#58 of 60 Re: [floridadream] by ronp9 Sep 28, 2009 (6:45 pm)
Replying to: floridadream (Feb 21, 2009 5:29 am) Have you resolved your problem Floridadream? I have the exact same problem and my dealer finally came up with a solution. Have your dealer take a look at service bulletin # 24-001-09. It addresses idle instability and installs a rear A/C cutout module. My Sprinter is out of warranty but they covered it. I would think that your dealer would do the same for you seeing how you have had it into the shop for this problem during the warranty period. This bulletin only applies to 2003-2006 Sprinters with factory roof air.
#59 of 60 Re: Start Error [tidwells] by sprinterguru Oct 20, 2009 (4:33 am)
Replying to: tidwells (Dec 07, 2006 2:15 pm) Your Sprinter Tech is incorrect. There are two watch type batteries inside your key fob. Your key is not communicating with the SKREEM module. You will not be able to fix this without taking it to the Dealer so they can reprogram your key to the module or you may have a defective module. Check the batteries first.
#60 of 60 Re: sprinter black smoke [upsmech] by sprinterguru Oct 20, 2009 (8:15 am)
Replying to: upsmech (Sep 20, 2009 8:42 pm) If you have hard start, no start, lots of smoke try this:   1. Remove the plastic injector cover (aka valve cover)   2. Remove the clip at the top of each injector. Use a hook pick and just pull the clip sideways. Remove the fuel injector return lines from the top of each injector.   3. Take a small vice grip and squeeze this line closed at the rear of the engine head or just behind the number five injector fitting. You are just keeping fuel from coming out of this line while cranking.   4. Buy a couple feet of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing at Ace hardware. Cut yourself five 4" pieces of this tubing. Now your going to install the tubing onto the top of each injector, the tube will fit nice and snug around each injector top where you removed the return lines. Now you should have five clear pipes sticking up off your injectors. These will be like beakers that capture bypassed fuel that is forced through the injector during cranking.   5. Disconnect the cam sensor near the number five injector, this will keep the engine from starting.   6. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds non stop. Take a look at your injector tubes. You should not have more than about a 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel in those tubes, if you have an 1" or more or more fuel in one tube than another you have a bad injector or a whole set of bad injectors. Lets not be super picky here an 1/8" difference is not an issue between injectors. Im talking an inch in one injector and a 1/4" in another.   Roy

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