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Dodge Sprinter: Starting/Stalling Issues

60 messages,  Last post on Oct 20, 2009 at 8:15 AM

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#52 of 60 by floridadream Feb 21, 2009 (5:29 am)
No cold weather here yet since my first 1,000 miles (now at 30,000 3 years later) bought in 2006. Passenger 2500 extended cab high roof. Rear a/c Kills the engine. It only does it when it's hot out and after approximately 10 miles or so down the road but dependably does it each time the rear blower is utilized yet the dealer can't duplicate it. It's been in the shop half a dozen times now for the same problem and has had some minor issues (window regulator, etc). They topped off the frion changed the oxygen sensor, of course the basic maintenance fuel, air, etc. Went in the shop again for two days this time and the $117 oil change resulted in my not having one (they forgot to replace the oil cap so it all blew out). $800 a month for 7 years, I would have hoped to have not been in the shop so much. Almost out of warranty now and don't know what to do about this a/c issue. There is no hesitation, warning lights, nothing. If the rear blower is on, only when it's hot outside, as I come to a stop or slow down, it simply shuts itself off. The engine acts like it's getting a computer generated message and simply shuts off. It starts without a problem but I'm hauling kids and it has to be in park (last two times was in the middle of the highway) with all things off to start again. I would be very grateful please if anyone knows of others with this issue. Replies to this message: ronp9 (Sep 28, 2009 6:45 pm)
#53 of 60 Engine stall while driving by lawrenzo Feb 25, 2009 (11:34 am)
I have a 2004 5 cyl 2500 Sprinter. I was driving today in cruise control at 65 mph and the engine died, dash lit up, seat belt sign went on etc. I hit the fuel pedal a couple of times, and the engine started up again. The weather was sunny and dry, about 58 degrees. This stall also happened in the rain, and I sat by the side of the road for almost 20 minutes, and it started up again.   Could it be the cruise control ?
#54 of 60 Re: To All Sprinter Owners.......To Be Cont'D............ [los5961] by kathyr1 Aug 20, 2009 (5:23 pm)
Replying to: los5961 (Oct 18, 2008 5:56 pm) HI MY NAME IS DAVID AND I HAVE A 2005 SPRINTER,I SAW YOUR POST FOR THE FIRST TIME TODAY AND WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU GOT ANYWHERE WITH YOUR LAWSUIT..I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS OUT OF MY SPRINTER NOT THE EXACT PROBLEMS YOU ARE HAVING BUT A LOT..ITS RIDICULUS..I HAVE A DELIVERY SERVICE AND TALK TO A LOT OF OTHER SPRINTER OWNERS WHO HAVE PROBLEMS TOO.ITS A SHAME THAT THEY COST SO MUCH AND THE QUALITY SUCKS..YOU CAN E-MAIL ME IF YOU LIKE AT b4udiereplyyahoo.com IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR LAWSUIT. THANKS DAVE Replies to this message: rtl1 (Aug 28, 2009 1:29 pm)
#55 of 60 Re: To All Sprinter Owners.......To Be Cont'D............ [kathyr1] by rtl1 Aug 28, 2009 (1:29 pm)
Replying to: kathyr1 (Aug 20, 2009 5:23 pm) I have a 2005 Sprinter as well, used for deliveries in our business. I also have 3 Ford E150s for comparison. The Sprinter has ~110K miles...would have more if it didn't spend SO much time in the repair shop. I must say that there isn't anything about this truck that we haven't had problems with...paint, sliding door, transmission, brakes, engine. In the last month we spent $2500 on a new blower motor for the A/C, a belt tensioner, and an EGR valve (today for $1040). This is THE most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned. I can only say that I hope they fired the engineering team. (Dave, I'll send you a note separately to compare notes)
#56 of 60 sprinter black smoke by upsmech Sep 20, 2009 (8:42 pm)
Hi, Im a fleet mechanic and some of my trucks are 05 sprinters w/2.7l 5 cyl engines. I had one overheat from a broken fan belt and they drove it back to the shop about 20 miles. Din't seam to hurt anything, replaced belt and idler pulley and topped off coolant, ran fine. about a month later (10,000 miles) the driver started complaining about black smoke coming from tail pipe mostly on take offs. Fuel pressure is normal, injector pulse is normal, no restrictions in intake assy. O2 sensor has been changed. I don't no if its related to overheating or not. Any ideas? Replies to this message: sprinterguru (Oct 20, 2009 8:15 am)
#57 of 60 Slick 50 by mr_dj Sep 27, 2009 (3:40 am)
Have any of you tried Slick 50? Works wonders on gas engines. Just a thought.
#58 of 60 Re: [floridadream] by ronp9 Sep 28, 2009 (6:45 pm)
Replying to: floridadream (Feb 21, 2009 5:29 am) Have you resolved your problem Floridadream? I have the exact same problem and my dealer finally came up with a solution. Have your dealer take a look at service bulletin # 24-001-09. It addresses idle instability and installs a rear A/C cutout module. My Sprinter is out of warranty but they covered it. I would think that your dealer would do the same for you seeing how you have had it into the shop for this problem during the warranty period. This bulletin only applies to 2003-2006 Sprinters with factory roof air.
#59 of 60 Re: Start Error [tidwells] by sprinterguru Oct 20, 2009 (4:33 am)
Replying to: tidwells (Dec 07, 2006 2:15 pm) Your Sprinter Tech is incorrect. There are two watch type batteries inside your key fob. Your key is not communicating with the SKREEM module. You will not be able to fix this without taking it to the Dealer so they can reprogram your key to the module or you may have a defective module. Check the batteries first.
#60 of 60 Re: sprinter black smoke [upsmech] by sprinterguru Oct 20, 2009 (8:15 am)
Replying to: upsmech (Sep 20, 2009 8:42 pm) If you have hard start, no start, lots of smoke try this:   1. Remove the plastic injector cover (aka valve cover)   2. Remove the clip at the top of each injector. Use a hook pick and just pull the clip sideways. Remove the fuel injector return lines from the top of each injector.   3. Take a small vice grip and squeeze this line closed at the rear of the engine head or just behind the number five injector fitting. You are just keeping fuel from coming out of this line while cranking.   4. Buy a couple feet of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing at Ace hardware. Cut yourself five 4" pieces of this tubing. Now your going to install the tubing onto the top of each injector, the tube will fit nice and snug around each injector top where you removed the return lines. Now you should have five clear pipes sticking up off your injectors. These will be like beakers that capture bypassed fuel that is forced through the injector during cranking.   5. Disconnect the cam sensor near the number five injector, this will keep the engine from starting.   6. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds non stop. Take a look at your injector tubes. You should not have more than about a 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel in those tubes, if you have an 1" or more or more fuel in one tube than another you have a bad injector or a whole set of bad injectors. Lets not be super picky here an 1/8" difference is not an issue between injectors. Im talking an inch in one injector and a 1/4" in another.   Roy

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