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Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues

289 messages,  Last post on Sep 28, 2009 at 11:24 AM

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#268 of 289 Fusable link burnt out. by ronald77 Jul 14, 2009 (11:35 pm)
I was driving my 93 Grand Voyager through an intersection 4 days ago when the minivan suddenly lost all power in the middle of the intersection and I was able to coast to the curb corner on the the other side.   The instrument pane went dead, the radio went dead, the minivan would not start using the ignition key. The interior lights could be turned on using the dimmer switch.   I called the AAA for assistance in towing the minivan home about 4 miles away. While waiting, my daughter said she smelled a burnt smell. I open the hood and could not find anything obvious. I checked the wires and the fluid levels and they seemed to be okay. I could not find any source of burning.   While waiting for assistance, I then checked all the fuses in the fuse box and found all of them to be okay.   When the tow driver came, he asked what the problem was and I explained to him what the problem was. He asked me to try and start the engine with the key. No response. He then thought it might be a dead battery and tried to jump the battery. No response. He then came out with a voltage meter and tested the batter and said that the batter was good, 13.3 volts. He felt that the problem is electrical near the battery pole.   Well, we were towed home. My mechanic neighbor and his family had arrived at his home but he was not at home. I opened the hood and re checked the engine compartment and found a red insulated wire that had two tiny holes in it. I felt the wire and found that you could feel one side of the wire with wire in it then there was a break or gap, then you could feel more wire through the insulation. The wire was located in a thick bundle of wires on the engine driver's side.   I studied my two manual, Chilton and Hayes, and felt that it might be one of those fusible links. I had to use a magnifying glass to look at Chilton's wiring diagram for the year (93) 3.0 Grand Voyager. I looked at Hayes electrical wiring diagrams and didn't find to much useful information other than how to replace the fusible link and to be sure that the negative pole of the battery was disconnected.   The next morning I had my mechanic neighbor checked what I had discovered and he agreed that that was the fusible link wire and that I should replace the wire with the same amperage or gauge with of 10 amps. He told me that there was art to solder the wires together.   I started to read as much information about this problem as the manual had said that you should not rely on fixing the fusible link only without searching for the underlying cause. I had asked my mechanic friend if there was any computer codes that could solve the problem as to the source. He said the problem could be anywhere and that you would need to know which circuit was involved by removing each fuse to see if that would isolate the source.   Since that was a much bigger project than I could do without having some special instruments and lacking a detailed electirical diagram for the model year, I decided to consider looking for professional advice. I spoke with my new pastor as he had some recent electrical work done with replacement of an alternator how did he like the result with the new mechanic. He was pleased with the results.   So I decided to get the fusible link link from NAPA in our town and also get the butt wire connectors as well. I had planned to solder the wires but the parts person said that you could use the butt wire connectors with just as good result and to use electrical tape as well.   I decided following this to visit my pastor's new mechanic for a consultation. I presented my problem to him and wanted to know if he had any experience with a fusible link problem. He told me that sometimes a circuit could be over loaded for some reason and the problem self correct and not occur again. He asked if I had used the air conditioning. I told him that the AC was not working for years and we never used it due to a microscopic leak in the evaporator that could not be fixed without incurring a large cost. I told him of my plan to repair that link and asked him if I could bring the minivan in for evaluation. He said if the fusible link solves the problem there would not be any computer codes available as there was no check engine light that came on. He said if there was a recurrence in a few days or several weeks to bring the minivan in and they would check it out. He said if the problem reoccured several months later, it would be more difficult to pin point the source.   I re studied the available electrical diagrams on the two manuals this evening. I noticed that someone had mentioned going to the library and looking at the electrical diagram on the Mitchell's manual. I may just do that before installing the fusible link.   I was even thinking of going to my old mechanic who had worked on the car for many years and asking his opinion.   I would like to have some suggestions on this challenge that I am facing as to what anyone would suggest solving this problem?   Thanks   Ronald
#269 of 289 Re: Dashboard Gauges [curiousjoe] by firedodge01 Jul 23, 2009 (2:31 am)
Replying to: curiousjoe (Oct 04, 2008 1:59 pm) Finally I find kindred spirits! My 1997 Dodge Caravan goes thru this sequence: abs and check engine lights come on, gas gauge, odometer, speedometer,'etc do not work. After a few days the ABS light goes off, the check engine light stays on and the gauges pop back on. Normally after I drove the car for a while the engine light would go off and everything would be normal. Then the cycle would start over. The cycles seem to be coming more often now. I wrote down the sequence and gave it to a Chrysler service advisor who showed no interest, charged about $90 to use computer diagnostics and told me a controller board MIGHT help. My gas gauge pings and fluctuates sometimes with the sequence but not every time.   I also have the wayward wipers that I have seen several dodge/chrysler owners write in about at several websites. They sometimes have life of their own but especially like to swipe at least 3 times when I use the turn signal. Lately they have not been wanting to shut off and sometimes stop at the sides of the windshield instead of nesting at the bottom.   I am really sorry that Chrysler products have these types of aggravating frustrating idiosyncrasies because the van drives, runs and rides great otherwise.   As I have been reading at several sites I have found that many owners seem to have these and similar problems and there seem to be as many solutions as there are drivers with problems....replace the clockspring, replace the BCM, check the fuses, check the wiring, do a complete re-set....what should we do to solve these problems,,which one is the best, simplest and longest lastng fix?   I did read at one website that an owner of a 1996 caravan was having the same abs light on/gauges off problem and he said he found a fuse in the fusebox under the hood and #1 from left to right was broken.   If anyone can give a consistent affordable fix to these problems (short of trading the dodge in for a toyota) I am sure all of us kindred spirits would love to hear it..   Sorry to go on so long but I am just so relieved to find out I am not the only one with this quirky set of dodge problems.   In closing I have but one final word..HELP. Replies to this message: lwoody1 (Aug 02, 2009 5:53 am) kizersoze (Aug 02, 2009 7:31 am)
#270 of 289 Re: 1997 Grand Caravan-won't start without a jump [kizersoze] by snolove29 Jul 29, 2009 (1:15 pm)
Replying to: kizersoze (Jun 28, 2009 1:52 pm) i dont have a sollution but my mom is having a similar problem. i was hoping you found a solution and could help us out. she has already spent hundreds trying to find out. it just dies out for no reason we can see,and lights flash and there is clicking. but starts instantly with a jump.
#271 of 289 Re: 1997 Grand Caravan-won't start without a jump [kizersoze] by joepeterson56 Jul 29, 2009 (1:52 pm)
Replying to: kizersoze (Jun 28, 2009 1:52 pm) My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
#272 of 289 Re: Dashboard Gauges [firedodge01] by lwoody1 Aug 02, 2009 (5:53 am)
Replying to: firedodge01 (Jul 23, 2009 2:31 am) I am having the same problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. It's happening the same way you described it. The ABS light, engine light, gauges, dashboard and even the windshield wipers are going crazy!!! Did you ever find the problem? If so, PLEASE help!!!!!! Replies to this message: kizersoze (Aug 02, 2009 7:31 am)
#273 of 289 Re: Dashboard Gauges [lwoody1] by kizersoze Aug 02, 2009 (7:31 am)
Replying to: lwoody1 (Aug 02, 2009 5:53 am) Sorry its not more dramatic than this but simply get a new battery. That's all I did and everything cleared right up.
#274 of 289 2001 Chrysler T&C by nca2k Aug 13, 2009 (6:31 pm)
My 2001 T&C will not start sometimes, when I turn the key all of the lights etc. work but the starter just clicks. I turn the key on anf off and it will start sometimes it takes a little longer then other times, this is not everytime just at random intervals. The last time it did it on the dash where the air bag light comes on when you start it a "DONE" light came on. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on. Thanks in advance. Replies to this message: shipo (Aug 14, 2009 2:02 am)
#275 of 289 Re: 2001 Chrysler T&C [nca2k] by shipo Aug 14, 2009 (2:02 am)
Replying to: nca2k (Aug 13, 2009 6:31 pm) What you're describing is a classic failure mode for the Nippon Denso starter used in something approaching half the cars built in the world (including these vans). While the starter itself is extremely robust and well designed, the contacts inside the integrated solenoid get scored and carboned up and need to be replaced every so many thousands of starts. Most folks opt for a new, or a remanufactured (as good as new), or a rebuilt (not as good as new but still pretty good) starter. That said, there are a number of companies that sell the Denso contacts for something less than twenty dollars, so if you're at all handy, you can fix the issue very inexpensively.   Best regards, Shipo
#276 of 289 Caravan revs up for no reason (3.3) a/c goes off too. by mariewest2 Aug 18, 2009 (6:37 am)
Had spark plugs changed after that had issues with van reving up for no reason. Van will try to accelerate while trying to stop (no fun) and when driving the rmps jump up and a/c cuts on and off. Took to 1st mechanic who changed a gasket. No help. Took to 2nd mechanic changed some part but no help. Does anyone have ANY idea at all? Cannot afford another mechanic. Please give me ideas.   Thanks Replies to this message: shipo (Aug 18, 2009 8:19 am) xwesx (Aug 18, 2009 12:44 pm)
#277 of 289 Re: Caravan revs up for no reason (3.3) a/c goes off too. [mariewest2] by shipo Aug 18, 2009 (8:19 am)
Replying to: mariewest2 (Aug 18, 2009 6:37 am) Mechanics that throw parts at a problem don't qualify to be called "mechanics". You need to find someone who will do a proper diagnosis of the problem (which could range from vacuum leaks, sensor failures, and computer problems) and fix only what's broken. Unfortunately the only way to properly determine what's wrong will be to hire a competent mechanic, and that's going to cost you some money.   Best regards, Shipo Replies to this message: xwesx (Aug 18, 2009 12:44 pm)

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