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Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues
289 messages, Last post on Sep 28, 2009 at 11:24 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: harpman1 (May 17, 2009 5:26 am)
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Replying to: xwesx (May 17, 2009 12:12 pm)
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| I just bought an 05 and the only damage i need to repair is a cracked b pillar. Can anyone explain how to remove/install the part once I obtain a replacement? | |
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Replying to: circusfan88 (Dec 15, 2008 9:12 am) |
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Replying to: harpman1 (May 19, 2009 8:18 am) |
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i have an 08 grand caravan and i was having trouble starting it. So i took the battery out and brought it over to advanced to have it tested. They told me the battery was internally shorted. So i bought another battery. Heres where the trouble begins..... I wasn't paying much attention when putting the new battery in and i put it in backwards. I tried starting my van and nothing lit up on the dash at all. Then i realized there was a little smoke coming from under the hood. I then realized what i did. The smoke was coming from under the fuse box. I did a little research and found out that the TIPM is under the fuse box. So i probably fried the TIPM. I just really need to know if i screwed anything else major up, or if there is some sort of protection device in the TIPM or something. Help please 
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This is a brand new problem for this vehicle. It won't start unless it's being jumped in which case, it starts just fine. I've cleaned the battery terminals and swapped out the starter (starter and solenoid are one unit.) still have the same issue. When failing, several clicks and chaotic behavior from the interior lamps. Tried tapping solenoid while turning key, no luck, which is why I bought a new starter. Not it. Any ideas?
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hello, i just bought a second hand chrysler grand voyager 3.3 grand se. the next day in the morning it would not start i used my starter cable and the neighbour started it with his car battery,it took a few tries before it worked. after that it worked the whole day without a glitch. next day worse, i try to start it battery is dead again? i tried to start it turned it of completely after unsuccesfully having tried and then al kinds of strange things happen while turned of. the window sweepers front and back start sweeping without having been turned of i hear a strange fast clicking electrical sound and the headlight seems to be moving up and down at the same time and the clock went on and of. when finally a neighbour came to jumpstart the car again the problem stopped. day 3, oops there it goes again, i am now charging the battery or trying and the charger goes from 0 to full every 30 seconds. can you please help? ps. when trying to start the all the dial go carzy and turn around |
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I was driving my 93 Grand Voyager through an intersection 4 days ago when the minivan suddenly lost all power in the middle of the intersection and I was able to coast to the curb corner on the the other side. The instrument pane went dead, the radio went dead, the minivan would not start using the ignition key. The interior lights could be turned on using the dimmer switch. I called the AAA for assistance in towing the minivan home about 4 miles away. While waiting, my daughter said she smelled a burnt smell. I open the hood and could not find anything obvious. I checked the wires and the fluid levels and they seemed to be okay. I could not find any source of burning. While waiting for assistance, I then checked all the fuses in the fuse box and found all of them to be okay. When the tow driver came, he asked what the problem was and I explained to him what the problem was. He asked me to try and start the engine with the key. No response. He then thought it might be a dead battery and tried to jump the battery. No response. He then came out with a voltage meter and tested the batter and said that the batter was good, 13.3 volts. He felt that the problem is electrical near the battery pole. Well, we were towed home. My mechanic neighbor and his family had arrived at his home but he was not at home. I opened the hood and re checked the engine compartment and found a red insulated wire that had two tiny holes in it. I felt the wire and found that you could feel one side of the wire with wire in it then there was a break or gap, then you could feel more wire through the insulation. The wire was located in a thick bundle of wires on the engine driver's side. I studied my two manual, Chilton and Hayes, and felt that it might be one of those fusible links. I had to use a magnifying glass to look at Chilton's wiring diagram for the year (93) 3.0 Grand Voyager. I looked at Hayes electrical wiring diagrams and didn't find to much useful information other than how to replace the fusible link and to be sure that the negative pole of the battery was disconnected. The next morning I had my mechanic neighbor checked what I had discovered and he agreed that that was the fusible link wire and that I should replace the wire with the same amperage or gauge with of 10 amps. He told me that there was art to solder the wires together. I started to read as much information about this problem as the manual had said that you should not rely on fixing the fusible link only without searching for the underlying cause. I had asked my mechanic friend if there was any computer codes that could solve the problem as to the source. He said the problem could be anywhere and that you would need to know which circuit was involved by removing each fuse to see if that would isolate the source. Since that was a much bigger project than I could do without having some special instruments and lacking a detailed electirical diagram for the model year, I decided to consider looking for professional advice. I spoke with my new pastor as he had some recent electrical work done with replacement of an alternator how did he like the result with the new mechanic. He was pleased with the results. So I decided to get the fusible link link from NAPA in our town and also get the butt wire connectors as well. I had planned to solder the wires but the parts person said that you could use the butt wire connectors with just as good result and to use electrical tape as well. I decided following this to visit my pastor's new mechanic for a consultation. I presented my problem to him and wanted to know if he had any experience with a fusible link problem. He told me that sometimes a circuit could be over loaded for some reason and the problem self correct and not occur again. He asked if I had used the air conditioning. I told him that the AC was not working for years and we never used it due to a microscopic leak in the evaporator that could not be fixed without incurring a large cost. I told him of my plan to repair that link and asked him if I could bring the minivan in for evaluation. He said if the fusible link solves the problem there would not be any computer codes available as there was no check engine light that came on. He said if there was a recurrence in a few days or several weeks to bring the minivan in and they would check it out. He said if the problem reoccured several months later, it would be more difficult to pin point the source. I re studied the available electrical diagrams on the two manuals this evening. I noticed that someone had mentioned going to the library and looking at the electrical diagram on the Mitchell's manual. I may just do that before installing the fusible link. I was even thinking of going to my old mechanic who had worked on the car for many years and asking his opinion. I would like to have some suggestions on this challenge that I am facing as to what anyone would suggest solving this problem? Thanks Ronald |
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Replying to: curiousjoe (Oct 04, 2008 1:59 pm) abs and check engine lights come on, gas gauge, odometer, speedometer,'etc do not work. After a few days the ABS light goes off, the check engine light stays on and the gauges pop back on. Normally after I drove the car for a while the engine light would go off and everything would be normal. Then the cycle would start over. The cycles seem to be coming more often now. I wrote down the sequence and gave it to a Chrysler service advisor who showed no interest, charged about $90 to use computer diagnostics and told me a controller board MIGHT help. My gas gauge pings and fluctuates sometimes with the sequence but not every time. I also have the wayward wipers that I have seen several dodge/chrysler owners write in about at several websites. They sometimes have life of their own but especially like to swipe at least 3 times when I use the turn signal. Lately they have not been wanting to shut off and sometimes stop at the sides of the windshield instead of nesting at the bottom. I am really sorry that Chrysler products have these types of aggravating frustrating idiosyncrasies because the van drives, runs and rides great otherwise. As I have been reading at several sites I have found that many owners seem to have these and similar problems and there seem to be as many solutions as there are drivers with problems....replace the clockspring, replace the BCM, check the fuses, check the wiring, do a complete re-set....what should we do to solve these problems,,which one is the best, simplest and longest lastng fix? I did read at one website that an owner of a 1996 caravan was having the same abs light on/gauges off problem and he said he found a fuse in the fusebox under the hood and #1 from left to right was broken. If anyone can give a consistent affordable fix to these problems (short of trading the dodge in for a toyota) I am sure all of us kindred spirits would love to hear it.. Sorry to go on so long but I am just so relieved to find out I am not the only one with this quirky set of dodge problems. In closing I have but one final word..HELP.
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