Last post on Aug 22, 2013 at 1:05 PM
You are in the Ford Explorer Sport Trac
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Ford Explorer Sport Trac, Lights, Electrical, Truck
#4 of 25 Window Problem
Feb 06, 2007 (7:35 pm)
Hey new to the site and need some help Fast!!
this is my first time owning a Sport Trac and i have a problem with my window switch. basically the switch works if u want to roll the window down but wont work going back up...if someone could tell me or show me a site where it shows how to disassemble the door panel to get to the switch..that would be awesome.
it just snowed 7 inches here in indpls and im freezing my cheeks off with my window down..
thanks for the help
#5 of 25 Making the radio display time/station not just station
May 05, 2007 (12:19 pm)
Title says it all. Since I had to pull the battery on my 2002 Sport Trac, the radio displays only the radio station, not the time and station as it did previously. I know there is a simple combo of buttons to push to change this behaviour (it happened once before but like a dolt I forgot to write down the combo) but I cannot find it in the manual anywhere. Suggestions?
#6 of 25 Re: Window Problem [xploretrac]
Aug 11, 2007 (9:41 am)
Please let me know if you were able to get any help with this problem ! It has happened to me and I need help.
#7 of 25 Extra power for radio equipment
Jan 19, 2008 (5:44 pm)
I am ham radio operator and would like to place an aux. battery in the truck. Has any one had any experience with this? I also will be installing emergency (amber Warring) lights along with a computer and a few other items for communications.
Any Help would be greatly appreciated
#8 of 25 Re: Extra power for radio equipment [russ24]
Jan 22, 2008 (5:39 am)
There are a number of different ways to hook up aux batteries. For what you have described the use for I would recomend the following:
Battery isolater. This protects your alternater and prevents discharging of your main vehicle battery. The Alternator B+ cable leading from the back of the alternater to the battery is hooked up to the center post of the isolater instead. The other two post on the isolater are labled battery #1 and Battery #2. Run a cable from post #1 of the isolater to your main vehicle battery[+]. Then run a cable from post #2 to your aux battery[+]. Don't forget to ground your aux battery to the chassi[-].
Depending on the number of watts your equipement is going to draw and the planned duration of use before starting the vehicle again will depend on if you wish to hook up your aux batteries in series and or use deep cell type batteries for the aux battery or batteries. Then it is just a matter of hooking up all of your equipment to your aux batteries.
I would also recomend a constant operation style solinoid installed inline on the positive cable going from the isolater to your aux batteries. This will prevent any possibility of a drain on your main vehicle battery period. This way by flicking a switch, or turning your vehicle off, your main battery is out of the loop and is reserved for runing the vehicle only. Any other questions, just repost.
#9 of 25 Re: Extra power for radio equipment [mickeymouse2]
Jan 30, 2008 (8:17 pm)
Thanks Micky for your information. Now Where could it be put in such a tight engine compartment. Power consumption could be handled by a 12-20 amphour battery. Most of the radios only draw 8-10 amps when transmitting and with a 10%-15% duty cycle the power consumption is fairly low.
#10 of 25 Re: Extra power for radio equipment [russ24]
Jan 31, 2008 (7:53 am)
I would put the battery[s] in the bed of your truck in some type of large tool box to protect against the weather. Your only running a 10 gauge wire back there, and then a good ground off that battery, and then hooking your equipment to that. You can find room in the engine compartment for the other stuff, isolator, interrupt constant solenoid ect. Those are small. That way if one battery isn't sufficient, there is plenty of room to add on. Keep in mind that motor homes usually use 2 house batteries at least for the accessories. They use a generator also when stopped to keep the batteries fully charged. I know you don't think that the draw is much, but it is going to probably require 3-4 deep cells if you plan on use beyond 90-120 minutes without the engine running. If your using a power inverter to 110, that in it self will drain the battery in about 30 minutes with nothing plugged into it.
Another method is to add an additional alternator to your engine. You would use a one wire marine alternator that should fit with a bracket just above your power steering pump where that stupid bracket is that warns you the belt is moving. This method is actually less costly but requires some alteration; Larger s-belt, mounting bracket ect. But you won't need the isolator or anything. I have done both methods on the 4.0 Relocating the power steering resivor is necessarry.
#11 of 25 Help! fog lights come on even when vehicle turned off
Mar 31, 2008 (6:03 pm)
I have a 2003 Sport Trac XLT with Auto-ON head lamps. The on-off for the fog lights is a separate switch on the dash near the radio. Normally, the fog lamps will only come on with the low beams. They are supposed to turn on automatically if they are switched on and the main headlamp switch is in the auto setting and the low beams are on. They will also come on manually if the main headlamp switch is turned "on" and the fog lamp switch is "on" and the low beams are on. Normally the little light on the fog lamp switch glows only when the fog lamps are on.
Here's the problem: when the sun goes down the fog lamps turn on---and kills the battery. The headlights do not come on with the fog lamps. This happens when the vehicle is turned off, the main headlamp switch can be on auto or manual, it doesn't seem to matter. Interestingly, the fog lamp switch glows "on" all the time. Turning the fog lamps on or off doesn't matter, the on/off indicator of the fog lamp switch stays glowing.
Are there any Ford mechanics, engineers or Sport Trac experts that can shed some light on this problem?
#12 of 25 94 Ford Explorer Starting and Fuel Gaugag problems
Jan 07, 2008 (4:07 pm)
#13 of 25 94 Ford Explorer Starting and Fuel Gaugag problems
Jan 07, 2008 (6:40 am)
I hope someone can help me out. My fuel gauge no longer reads accurately. The truck can be empty, but the gauge reads full. It also takes and extra 20-30secs to start on ignition. What can I do to fix this or have any of you had this problem?