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Sport Trac Electrical and Lighting Problems

19 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 9:53 AM

You are in the Ford Explorer Sport Trac Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Ford Explorer Sport Trac, Lights, Electrical, Truck

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#1 of 19 Sport Trac: Electrical/Lighting/Computer by kcram HOST Nov 13, 2006 (7:15 pm)
If it's somehow connected to the Trac's battery, ask here about getting the juice to it again   kcram - Pickups Host
#2 of 19 Hooking up electric brakes for a 2001 Sport Trac by dmac12 Nov 18, 2006 (3:26 pm)
I'm trying to hook up the controls for electric trailer brakes. I cannot find the receptical under the dash. Does anyone know where they hide that sucker? thanks, Dean Replies to this message: ayarbo1 (Nov 21, 2006 1:58 pm)
#3 of 19 Re: Hooking up electric brakes for a 2001 Sport Trac [dmac12] by ayarbo1 Nov 21, 2006 (1:58 pm)
Replying to: dmac12 (Nov 18, 2006 3:26 pm) It's usually under the steering wheel kick panel in the upper corner area where your left foot rests...... Do you know what the recepticle looks like? It's not very large and has 4-5 pins if my memory serves me correctly.
#4 of 19 Window Problem by xploretrac Feb 06, 2007 (7:35 pm)
Hey new to the site and need some help Fast!!   this is my first time owning a Sport Trac and i have a problem with my window switch. basically the switch works if u want to roll the window down but wont work going back up...if someone could tell me or show me a site where it shows how to disassemble the door panel to get to the switch..that would be awesome.   it just snowed 7 inches here in indpls and im freezing my cheeks off with my window down..   thanks for the help Replies to this message: sirvin56 (Aug 11, 2007 9:41 am)
#5 of 19 Making the radio display time/station not just station by nimbusecho May 05, 2007 (12:19 pm)
Title says it all. Since I had to pull the battery on my 2002 Sport Trac, the radio displays only the radio station, not the time and station as it did previously. I know there is a simple combo of buttons to push to change this behaviour (it happened once before but like a dolt I forgot to write down the combo) but I cannot find it in the manual anywhere. Suggestions?   Thanks   Samantha sampsc-consulting.ca
#6 of 19 Re: Window Problem [xploretrac] by sirvin56 Aug 11, 2007 (9:41 am)
Replying to: xploretrac (Feb 06, 2007 7:35 pm) Please let me know if you were able to get any help with this problem ! It has happened to me and I need help. Thanks !
#7 of 19 Extra power for radio equipment by russ24 Jan 19, 2008 (5:44 pm)
I am ham radio operator and would like to place an aux. battery in the truck. Has any one had any experience with this? I also will be installing emergency (amber Warring) lights along with a computer and a few other items for communications. Any Help would be greatly appreciated Replies to this message: mickeymouse2 (Jan 22, 2008 5:39 am) russ24 (Jan 30, 2008 8:17 pm) mickeymouse2 (Jan 31, 2008 7:53 am)
#8 of 19 Re: Extra power for radio equipment [russ24] by mickeymouse2 Jan 22, 2008 (5:39 am)
Replying to: russ24 (Jan 19, 2008 5:44 pm) There are a number of different ways to hook up aux batteries. For what you have described the use for I would recomend the following:   Battery isolater. This protects your alternater and prevents discharging of your main vehicle battery. The Alternator B+ cable leading from the back of the alternater to the battery is hooked up to the center post of the isolater instead. The other two post on the isolater are labled battery #1 and Battery #2. Run a cable from post #1 of the isolater to your main vehicle battery[+]. Then run a cable from post #2 to your aux battery[+]. Don't forget to ground your aux battery to the chassi[-].   Depending on the number of watts your equipement is going to draw and the planned duration of use before starting the vehicle again will depend on if you wish to hook up your aux batteries in series and or use deep cell type batteries for the aux battery or batteries. Then it is just a matter of hooking up all of your equipment to your aux batteries.   I would also recomend a constant operation style solinoid installed inline on the positive cable going from the isolater to your aux batteries. This will prevent any possibility of a drain on your main vehicle battery period. This way by flicking a switch, or turning your vehicle off, your main battery is out of the loop and is reserved for runing the vehicle only. Any other questions, just repost. Replies to this message: russ24 (Jan 30, 2008 8:17 pm) mickeymouse2 (Jan 31, 2008 7:53 am)
#9 of 19 Re: Extra power for radio equipment [mickeymouse2] by russ24 Jan 30, 2008 (8:17 pm)
Replying to: mickeymouse2 (Jan 22, 2008 5:39 am) Thanks Micky for your information. Now Where could it be put in such a tight engine compartment. Power consumption could be handled by a 12-20 amphour battery. Most of the radios only draw 8-10 amps when transmitting and with a 10%-15% duty cycle the power consumption is fairly low. Replies to this message: mickeymouse2 (Jan 31, 2008 7:53 am)
#10 of 19 Re: Extra power for radio equipment [russ24] by mickeymouse2 Jan 31, 2008 (7:53 am)
Replying to: russ24 (Jan 30, 2008 8:17 pm) I would put the battery[s] in the bed of your truck in some type of large tool box to protect against the weather. Your only running a 10 gauge wire back there, and then a good ground off that battery, and then hooking your equipment to that. You can find room in the engine compartment for the other stuff, isolator, interrupt constant solenoid ect. Those are small. That way if one battery isn't sufficient, there is plenty of room to add on. Keep in mind that motor homes usually use 2 house batteries at least for the accessories. They use a generator also when stopped to keep the batteries fully charged. I know you don't think that the draw is much, but it is going to probably require 3-4 deep cells if you plan on use beyond 90-120 minutes without the engine running. If your using a power inverter to 110, that in it self will drain the battery in about 30 minutes with nothing plugged into it.   Another method is to add an additional alternator to your engine. You would use a one wire marine alternator that should fit with a bracket just above your power steering pump where that stupid bracket is that warns you the belt is moving. This method is actually less costly but requires some alteration; Larger s-belt, mounting bracket ect. But you won't need the isolator or anything. I have done both methods on the 4.0 Relocating the power steering resivor is necessarry.

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