Last post on Mar 04, 2010 at 6:24 PM
You are in the Older Volvo Wagons
What is this discussion about?
Volvo 740, Volvo 760, Wagon
#12 of 21 hot weather elec. outage
Jul 10, 2009 (1:50 pm)
I've got "90 740 GL, non-turbo. everything runs and works great until the summer heat in Phx, Az. Then, intermitant shut down of A/C, lights, radio, windows and engine begins to run rough, also, all the warning lights on the dash come on. Shut it down and alls well for another couple days. The battery and alternator checked good but everything was working when I had it checked. Is there a diode or resistor somewhere that is wearing out due to the heat?
#13 of 21 Head gasket - Groundhog day or what??
Sep 27, 2009 (1:04 am)
Back in June, I purchased an '87 740GLE turbo wagon w/232k miles...on the long drive home, it kept overheating and the water pump blew, so it was replaced. But, overheating and loss of fluid in coolant chamber persisted. Upon further analysis, the mechanic discovered water in the engine; so replaced head gasket, had the head machined as it was warped; flushed the engine twice and put it back together.
Drove it "gently" but fluid still "disappearing"; no visible leaks externally. A second mechanic then took hoses off which connect the coolant chamber to the radiator and engine; did a pressure test and they held water, so to speak!
Just yesterday, took the Volvo on a 2hr round trip; had to refill fluid 3-4 times; but it never indicated on the dash display it was overheating. About an hour after being on the freeway, a significant loss of power occurred, the thermostat pegged into the red zone! The car shuddered a bit and then died. Upon checking under the hood, the coolant chamber was bone dry and oil was splattered all over the engine and hood. Tried to re-start without success. Then had it towed.
Anyone out there had similar experiences? Why/how is water getting into engine?
I am really getting frustrated!!
A second question for y'all...the mechanic who's working on it is lusting after the turbo...he's even offerred to trade out any work he does in exchange. So, would removing this device adversely affect the engine? not that i need the power and speed (am also getting crappy mileage!), but are there modifications on the engine to support the turbo which, if removed, could compromise its performance?
Please help...am at my wit's end!!
Namaste, graci, muchas gracias,
#14 of 21 Re: 1989 740 GL Alternator [kurtnmia2006]
Oct 31, 2009 (7:00 pm)
There is an adjustment screw on the alternator assembly, which is located on the passenger side of the car. General, you loosen the big nut on the slider using a metric socket, and use another smaller socket to snug up the belt by turning the adjuster nut by the fender. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey is the mnemonic as you turn the ratchet. Metric sockets only will fit. I have a set of them and a set of metric open-end and box wrenches. Good investment. Be sure to re-tighten the big nut after the belt is snug. Don't over-tighten. Belt should have about 1/8" of play when you are finished. Too much play and you could destroy the alternator by ruining the bearings.
#15 of 21 Mystery over central locking system
Oct 31, 2009 (7:05 pm)
I am pretty sharp on do-it-yourself repairs, especially electrical trouble-shooting. This one, however, is perplexing.
My car came back from the shop after some fuel system work, and the central locking only works on the driver side door and the tailgate on my 740 wagon. Aahhah, I said to no one in particular, it must be the relay. The relay diagram for the 740 shows the central locking relay next to the power window relay in the left front of the relay rack. Removed it. No change. Removed the relay NEXT to it, which the diagram shows as an empty space. No central locking at all. Mechanic says the solenoids are shot. Three at once?
Anyone have this problem, or know the relay number for central locking?
#16 of 21 1990 740 manual 5 speed over drive
Jan 05, 2010 (10:28 am)
having trouble shifting in overdrive , replaced relay , new button , checked solenoid with wire directly from battery , checked current plug which plugged into solenoid with every thing engaged, with 12 volt tester will not lite up ,, where does wire go for current thank you
#17 of 21 1989 740 Wagon fuel problem
Feb 19, 2010 (4:47 pm)
When I start this vehicle it sounds like its flooded, & it always feels like it's flooded while driving.
The check engine light is on, but I do not know how to retrieve the codes.
What would be the first step ,or the first things I should look for.
#18 of 21 1992 740 Turbo Brakelights/Rear Wiper
Mar 01, 2010 (5:19 pm)
I turned on my rear window wiper this morning, and it went one-half of a cycle and stopped. Thereafter, my brakelights have ceased to function. I've checked every fuse, all intact. Any suggestions? Thanks
#19 of 21 Re: 1992 740 Turbo Brakelights/Rear Wiper [davyjones]
by KCRam@Edmunds HOST
Mar 02, 2010 (4:34 pm)
Sounds like you lost the electrical connection to your tailgate. Look for a crimped/cut wire when you open it... or it may have developed a short within the tailgate.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
#20 of 21 Re: 1992 740 Turbo Brakelights/Rear Wiper [kcram]
Mar 02, 2010 (10:03 pm)
Thanks, turned out to be a wiper motor failure that blew out the "bulb integrity relay." Have you heard of this, or did I get ripped off? Thanks again, Davy
#21 of 21 Re: 1992 740 Turbo Brakelights/Rear Wiper [davyjones]
by KCRam@Edmunds HOST
Mar 04, 2010 (6:24 pm)
It's certainly reasonable considering the wiper motor may have sent a spike when it blew.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host