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Wagons Older Volvo Wagons Please Advise on volvo 740
15 messages, Last post on Oct 31, 2009 at 6:05 PM
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I have a 1992 Volvo 740 WAgon with 165,000 miles on it. This car is used for about 300 miles weekly taking several children to various activities. It is used up steep canyon roads several times daily due to the fact that we live in malibu with many canyons. This car seems to require various kind of maintenance and/or repair every 2-6 weeks which takes a day or two to do at a cost of $150 to $400 and we must rent a car when it's being serviced. We just found out we're having a transmission problem that cost up to $1,500 to fix. The car has stopped working in traffic and get's about 16 miles to the gallon. I'm very concerned about saftey with kids the primary riders in the car. The Aamco dealer says everything else is fine and it's a good car. My question is, at this point, would it be a better decision to use the money and purchase another used volvo wagon, a later model after 1995, that has less mileage, will need less maintenance, have better gas mileage, and more dependability so the although we'll need to pay on a monthly loan, it will still work out better than constantly fixing the 740. Since you all are 740 experienced owners, thought you'd have good advice. THANKS SO MUCH!!!!
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Replying to: hateit (Nov 11, 2006 9:02 am) 2. The trans will cost $1500, the car is worth maybe $1000. 3. The car no longer works in traffic. So unless you are the only one on the road, your out of luck. 4. If the car is in the shop every 2-6 weeks, how can the mechanic say everything else is fine (from his point of view it is secured income)? Volvos are great cars, they are expensive to work on. The older ones have their own little quirks (there are a number of web sites that will advise you of these). From what you describe, I would move on. But be aware, the 95, 96, 97, 98, etc. all have issues you may need to address; ABS Module, AC issues, etc. Do your homework. |
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Replying to: hateit (Nov 11, 2006 9:02 am) As a very fresh member I just put one post in this 740 electric gremlin discussion, thinking that I was replying to a message from two days ago, but it was a year and two days ago... so this time I will be very short: Find a pre 1990 Volvo 740. Avoid old cars with ABS. Or, import a good 740 Automatic from The Netherlands and use the transmission only (I guess engine / complete car can not be used due to different regulations for exhaust emissions, but it would be worth to check, maybe it may go like oldtimer...) Very good Volvos 740 can be found over here for few hundred EUR. Regards from Den Haag, The Netherlands |
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I recently had the timing belt on my 740 replaced. I also had them replace all of the other belts. After about three weeks the alternator belt just disappeared, no idea where it went. I went to the auto parts store and bought a new one. It is too loose, how do you adjust this belt. I can't find any place to adjust it at all. Any one have any ideas. How about you Den Haag you seem to be pretty knowledgeable. Can you help me out. Regards Kurt
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| Hi all.. just looking for some help. I have a 93 740 that runs great no check lites are on ..reverse is fine.. car has 126.000 miles... trans serviced since new..no slippage. speedo is working ..this came up after i went to store came out backed up put in drive wont shift out of first..kick down cable appears working...........fuses? not really sure where to start.. this trans was perfect till other day Thanks for reading | |
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I have a 1990 Volvo 740 GL wagon with over 100K on her - dependable and with the usual quirks (yay no speedo!) Yesterday, I had to take her on a business trip that was roughly 50 miles on 4 lane highway. As I was reaching my destination, I came off the 4-lane onto 2-lane highway and stopped for a red light. At this point, the car started to run rough (with vibrations) and a bit throaty. At first I thought I had blown my exhaust somewhere. I managed to get to my appointment, then limped her home. While doing this, I noticed two things - one, the throatiness was directed inside the car, not out, as I could tell from the reflective sounds off other cars and highway barriers that I wasn't sounding like a tank to everyone. The other was that the sound could be heard even while cranking the starter. So, today, I put her up on a pair of ramps and looked under her front end. I did not find any exhaust leakage, which was a relief, as I had that replaced just under a year ago. But I did find one odd thing that I'm not sure about, and could use an answer for... Am I supposed to be able to see my torque converter spinning, or is there supposed to be a cap over that 2" x 3" square hole I found there? It looks like there was something there, but I can't tell. Thanks, A-N
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I have attempted to remove a loud brake squeal in a 1988 Volvo 740 by replacing pads with a "medium grade" quality pad (Raybestos), turned the rotors, applied new lubricant to the rear of the pads, and insured that the pads fit tight in their seats. Still squeals (more like a screech) when dry or wet, usually only under 15 mph. I have been advised to replace with the the original parts. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance Scot
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Replying to: scot6 (Feb 22, 2008 5:13 am) Now if someone would just answer my question about that torque converter hole... A-N |
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| your rear brakes are missing the shims. the shims go between the brake pad&caliber piston check your repair manual | |
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Hi there, I have a '90 740 with 167k miles on it. In the year I've had it, I've put 25k onto it. It runs like a dream and has not given me any problems. Does anyone know what the service schedule is like on these cars and when I should have a minor/major service done? Thanks! S. |
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