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Please Advise on volvo 740

15 messages,  Last post on Oct 31, 2009 at 6:05 PM

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What is this discussion about? Volvo 740, Volvo 760, Wagon

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#6 of 15 Odd question about Volvo 740 Transmission Housings by arknorth Oct 09, 2007 (12:00 pm)
I have a 1990 Volvo 740 GL wagon with over 100K on her - dependable and with the usual quirks (yay no speedo!) Yesterday, I had to take her on a business trip that was roughly 50 miles on 4 lane highway. As I was reaching my destination, I came off the 4-lane onto 2-lane highway and stopped for a red light. At this point, the car started to run rough (with vibrations) and a bit throaty. At first I thought I had blown my exhaust somewhere. I managed to get to my appointment, then limped her home. While doing this, I noticed two things - one, the throatiness was directed inside the car, not out, as I could tell from the reflective sounds off other cars and highway barriers that I wasn't sounding like a tank to everyone. The other was that the sound could be heard even while cranking the starter. So, today, I put her up on a pair of ramps and looked under her front end.   I did not find any exhaust leakage, which was a relief, as I had that replaced just under a year ago. But I did find one odd thing that I'm not sure about, and could use an answer for...   Am I supposed to be able to see my torque converter spinning, or is there supposed to be a cap over that 2" x 3" square hole I found there? It looks like there was something there, but I can't tell.   Thanks,   A-N Replies to this message: inestein (May 26, 2009 5:55 pm)
#7 of 15 Volvo 740 Brakes by scot6 Feb 22, 2008 (5:13 am)
I have attempted to remove a loud brake squeal in a 1988 Volvo 740 by replacing pads with a "medium grade" quality pad (Raybestos), turned the rotors, applied new lubricant to the rear of the pads, and insured that the pads fit tight in their seats. Still squeals (more like a screech) when dry or wet, usually only under 15 mph. I have been advised to replace with the the original parts.   Any suggestions? Thanks in advance   Scot Replies to this message: arknorth (Feb 23, 2008 4:20 am)
#8 of 15 Re: Volvo 740 Brakes [scot6] by arknorth Feb 23, 2008 (4:20 am)
Replying to: scot6 (Feb 22, 2008 5:13 am) That is exactly what I had to do with my 740 wagon, and it did do the trick. Oddly, I found that Volvo pads are reletively inexpencive, but soft, so they wear down a bit quicker than others. But if that keeps my beastie from waking the dead each time I stop, so much the better.   Now if someone would just answer my question about that torque converter hole...   A-N
#9 of 15 brakes making loud noise from the rear by 278 Mar 01, 2008 (7:04 pm)
your rear brakes are missing the shims. the shims go between the brake pad&caliber piston check your repair manual
#10 of 15 service schedule? by salimismail Jul 14, 2008 (3:43 pm)
Hi there, I have a '90 740 with 167k miles on it. In the year I've had it, I've put 25k onto it. It runs like a dream and has not given me any problems. Does anyone know what the service schedule is like on these cars and when I should have a minor/major service done?   Thanks! S.
#11 of 15 Re: Odd question about Volvo 740 Transmission Housings [arknorth] by inestein May 26, 2009 (5:55 pm)
Replying to: arknorth (Oct 09, 2007 12:00 pm) Hello I had the same thing happen to my 90 740 vibation on the inside of car and vibration when turning the starter over... any help will be apreciated
#12 of 15 hot weather elec. outage by sdibble1 Jul 10, 2009 (12:50 pm)
I've got "90 740 GL, non-turbo. everything runs and works great until the summer heat in Phx, Az. Then, intermitant shut down of A/C, lights, radio, windows and engine begins to run rough, also, all the warning lights on the dash come on. Shut it down and alls well for another couple days. The battery and alternator checked good but everything was working when I had it checked. Is there a diode or resistor somewhere that is wearing out due to the heat?
#13 of 15 Head gasket - Groundhog day or what?? by suzan1 Sep 27, 2009 (12:04 am)
Hi guys:   Back in June, I purchased an '87 740GLE turbo wagon w/232k miles...on the long drive home, it kept overheating and the water pump blew, so it was replaced. But, overheating and loss of fluid in coolant chamber persisted. Upon further analysis, the mechanic discovered water in the engine; so replaced head gasket, had the head machined as it was warped; flushed the engine twice and put it back together.   Drove it "gently" but fluid still "disappearing"; no visible leaks externally. A second mechanic then took hoses off which connect the coolant chamber to the radiator and engine; did a pressure test and they held water, so to speak!   Just yesterday, took the Volvo on a 2hr round trip; had to refill fluid 3-4 times; but it never indicated on the dash display it was overheating. About an hour after being on the freeway, a significant loss of power occurred, the thermostat pegged into the red zone! The car shuddered a bit and then died. Upon checking under the hood, the coolant chamber was bone dry and oil was splattered all over the engine and hood. Tried to re-start without success. Then had it towed.   Anyone out there had similar experiences? Why/how is water getting into engine? I am really getting frustrated!!   A second question for y'all...the mechanic who's working on it is lusting after the turbo...he's even offerred to trade out any work he does in exchange. So, would removing this device adversely affect the engine? not that i need the power and speed (am also getting crappy mileage!), but are there modifications on the engine to support the turbo which, if removed, could compromise its performance?   Please help...am at my wit's end!!   Namaste, graci, muchas gracias, Suzan
#14 of 15 Re: 1989 740 GL Alternator [kurtnmia2006] by arthur745 Oct 31, 2009 (6:00 pm)
Replying to: kurtnmia2006 (Jan 19, 2007 4:42 am) There is an adjustment screw on the alternator assembly, which is located on the passenger side of the car. General, you loosen the big nut on the slider using a metric socket, and use another smaller socket to snug up the belt by turning the adjuster nut by the fender. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey is the mnemonic as you turn the ratchet. Metric sockets only will fit. I have a set of them and a set of metric open-end and box wrenches. Good investment. Be sure to re-tighten the big nut after the belt is snug. Don't over-tighten. Belt should have about 1/8" of play when you are finished. Too much play and you could destroy the alternator by ruining the bearings.
#15 of 15 Mystery over central locking system by arthur745 Oct 31, 2009 (6:05 pm)
I am pretty sharp on do-it-yourself repairs, especially electrical trouble-shooting. This one, however, is perplexing. My car came back from the shop after some fuel system work, and the central locking only works on the driver side door and the tailgate on my 740 wagon. Aahhah, I said to no one in particular, it must be the relay. The relay diagram for the 740 shows the central locking relay next to the power window relay in the left front of the relay rack. Removed it. No change. Removed the relay NEXT to it, which the diagram shows as an empty space. No central locking at all. Mechanic says the solenoids are shot. Three at once? Anyone have this problem, or know the relay number for central locking?

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