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Sedans Chevrolet Malibu 2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu
1301 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 8:22 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Malibu Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: vanman1 (Sep 13, 2009 4:00 pm) I was at a chain that also keeps a store when an irate customer got free rotors and drums because of impact wrench use. The manager then went and got an arm load of torque wrenches from the store shelves and handed them to mechanics, saying "Put this in your tool box." And that is where they stayed. The guy got them because they could not even show him one. So a picture will speak all that is needed. I also got a set of rotors and drums. I had just done a brake job and had only 2000 miles on it. Well broke in. I went in for a tire rotation and in a few days the warpage started to show up. About two weeks passed and the whole car would shake when braked. I have not seen the construction of the Malibu rotors. GM started using some two piece rotors in mid 90's. The top hat area was not cast into the rotor. Instead it was a stamped steel plate welded to the rotor. This seemed more forgiving to improperly torqued wheel nuts, but it was not perfect I can say from personal experience. When it came time to turn them because I was replacing pads, they were ruined. I am not sure if it was the shop and a bad lathe or bad mounting, or because of the design. |
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Replying to: gonogo (Aug 29, 2009 6:27 am) As I recall, the issue was with the battery holder which is the negative contact. It is made of a material that will not take solder but merely fills the gap around the leg of the holder. I came up with a fix that secured it better. |
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Replying to: kplacer (Aug 30, 2009 5:05 am) Weight is why you no longer have glass head lamps, but instead a formed plastic assembly with a small bulb. |
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Replying to: vanman1 (Feb 14, 2009 6:22 pm) I would rather have a tranny with over-run clutches, unless driving continuously in steep grades where I would force a downshift. You will get better mileage. Needing that slight engine braking that occurs in the moment you let off accelerator before applying brake likely means you are driving to fast for road conditions, following to closely, and wasting gas. |
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OMG, this 09 has 17 of them. And an obvious problem at GM, possibly idiots or cost cutters. One of the bulletins is the same issue and fix that was on my 96 Aurora. And it was supposedly fixed in later years during production. The issue involves the cooling fans and an electrical spike that occurs when they are turned off or change speed. The motor windings act like a transformer with a collapsing field and send the spike into all other circuits. The one that has shown up in the TSB is the transmission control module, but it can affect all electronic components. I have to wonder if it is the result of management that does not know the difference between a diode and a electric motor, or it is because of some idiot that thinks job security is job one. He gets to remake the same drawing every couple of years. Let me delve into the importance of this issue with semi-conductors of all types. They have a design working voltage and current specifications as well as max temperature. And they also have specs for reverse voltage and current, among other specs. Exceeding these values can cause punch through which is an area of damage. Depending upon the severity of the damage, it might cause immediate failure, but at least an early failure whether it is next week or next year, or later! And since this is such a basic problem and repetative with GM, I feel that they should be on the line for the life of the vehicle, not five years. Also, if I had the oscilloscope to check the spike, I'd be looking at the voltage of that spike to determine if a diode alone was sufficient to stop damage. The diode, assuming an extremely fast reaction time will only catch the reverse spike which will quickly kill the ringing pattern of the windings. But will a single large spike of the correct polarity get through? That too can kill electronic circuits and then it would seem that a fast acting Zenor diode of maybe 16Volts would also be necessary. In any event, get your vehicle checked immediately for the service bulletin and get a copy of the work. |
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| Wondering if anyone else out there had a vehicle fire in their 2008 Malibu. Started in the centre console on the passenger side, just to the right of the gear shifter. Repair shop/adjuster says it started in the wiring harness or airbag sensor. | |
| Sounds like a fluke. Sorry to hear it. | |
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So I have passed 1 year with my 2008 LT2 V6. Likes - Car drives great, smooth ride and transmission. Very comfortable on long trips, seat warmers keep my wife warm in the winter.Interior is also nice and quiet. Dislikes - Trunk opening could be bigger. V6 mileage could be better. Issues - None What others say - I get a lot of surprised people sitting in my car. People are surprised how upscale this Chevy looks inside and out. I can't disagree. It's not a Mercedes, but it's not suppose to be either. Still could not be happier with my car. 
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I have an '08 malibu with 22,000 miles and i am hearing a wierd clicking noise when driving slowly around like 10-20mph, any higher mph the noise is there just hard to listen through the road/tire noise. it only happens when moving and sounds like its coming out of the front passenger wheel area (but i could be wrong). any ideas?
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Replying to: m3fan3 (Oct 30, 2009 6:28 pm) If you have that much road noise, you have noisy tires or is it that faint? Try a quieter type of surface. Immediately check wheel nuts to make sure you don't have a loose wheel!!!! You might try removing wheel and check area for something that is making intermittant contact. Calipers have been known to make such a sound, especially if the rotor is warped, but then you might also feel that when you brake. With that mileage, you have likely had tires rotated. Have you heeded my advice of getting a torque wrench and check behind the mechanic so that you don't incur such damage? (posted elsewhere as a warning to all) Also CV joints can make a sound that is somewhat like a clicking if there is a lot of wear. Usually it occurs prematurely if the boot has been punctured and you loose all of the grease. And often the clicking is worse in a slow turn. Also check to see if something is stuck in the tire that might make such a sound as it comes in contact with the road.
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